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Thread: clutch needed and best remap for 3.0tdi

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    clutch needed and best remap for 3.0tdi

    Can anyone give me aroundabout price on a new clutch and fitted for my 3.0 tdi quattro auto 2005, just want a figure before i go to garage and have a shock!!
    Also i was looking at a ecu remap, have had a quote off angel tuning, £195, 50bhp increase, is this good??

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    jdp1962's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by daveyboy70 View Post
    Can anyone give me aroundabout price on a new clutch and fitted for my 3.0 tdi quattro auto 2005, just want a figure before i go to garage and have a shock!!
    Also i was looking at a ecu remap, have had a quote off angel tuning, £195, 50bhp increase, is this good??
    I'm puzzled. Why would you need a new clutch on an automatic?
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    A4 3.0TDi SE Quattro Auto. Factory-fit: RNS-E/bluetooth; F/R parking sensors; full leather/heated front seats; cruise. Retrofit: Remap; Eibach 30mm lowering springs, RS4 RARB; MTEC drilled/grooved discs; 18" RS4 alloys; VW fan washers; Kinetic Digitizor DAB; Blackvue DR380 camera; front armrest; ambient lighting; white LED lights; autodim mirror; Cupra splitter; S-Line door blades; tints; UK pressed plates; MFSW; SDS; TPMS; LED Taillights and DRLs. RS aluminium pedals


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    Hey, ok , im new to auto`s!!, is a torque converter then? when i pull off especially, the revs rise rapidly but not the speed of the car, just like a clutch ! would in a manual car, when warmed up it doesnt seem as bad and when im in tiptroic mode. Any help please!

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    Just asked a similar question in Carl's thread, is it worth upgrading th torque coverter in an auto? (if it can be done?)

    Car: 2007 A4 3.0TDI Quattro S-Line Cabriolet
    Mods: Pipercross Panel Filter, Smarttop, LED Plate Bulbs, LED Interior Bulbs, Blue LED Needles, Remap, EGR Delete, Custom Stainless Exhaust (4" Slash Tips), Cupra-R Splitter, Embossed Number Plates, 19" BBS CH Reps & Vredestein Ultra Sessanta's, 12mm TPI Spacers, -30m H&R Springs, MTEC Black Edition Brakes (Dimpled & Grooved), Mintex Pads, RS4 RARB, Vibe Square Subwoofer in Ski-pass & Alpine MRP-350 Amp

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    Quote Originally Posted by jjmurphy21187 View Post
    Just asked a similar question in Carl's thread, is it worth upgrading th torque coverter in an auto? (if it can be done?)
    I have been driving autos for 25 years and have never heard of a torque converter being "upgraded", hell I have never heard of one failing . Sure they get replaced, but usually only when a box has failed and metal fragments etc are running around the sytem.

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    Does that mean that theoretically a torque converter has not upper torque limit then?? Don't know much about auto's, was fascinated when I first learnt auto box's dont just use an automatic clutch!

    Car: 2007 A4 3.0TDI Quattro S-Line Cabriolet
    Mods: Pipercross Panel Filter, Smarttop, LED Plate Bulbs, LED Interior Bulbs, Blue LED Needles, Remap, EGR Delete, Custom Stainless Exhaust (4" Slash Tips), Cupra-R Splitter, Embossed Number Plates, 19" BBS CH Reps & Vredestein Ultra Sessanta's, 12mm TPI Spacers, -30m H&R Springs, MTEC Black Edition Brakes (Dimpled & Grooved), Mintex Pads, RS4 RARB, Vibe Square Subwoofer in Ski-pass & Alpine MRP-350 Amp

    VCDS - PM for details (East Midlands)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul B7 View Post
    I have been driving autos for 25 years and have never heard of a torque converter being "upgraded", hell I have never heard of one failing . Sure they get replaced, but usually only when a box has failed and metal fragments etc are running around the sytem.
    My thoughts precisely. Here's theWiki page on how torque converters work, for those unfamiliar with them.
    A4 3.0TDi SE Quattro Auto. Factory-fit: RNS-E/bluetooth; F/R parking sensors; full leather/heated front seats; cruise. Retrofit: Remap; Eibach 30mm lowering springs, RS4 RARB; MTEC drilled/grooved discs; 18" RS4 alloys; VW fan washers; Kinetic Digitizor DAB; Blackvue DR380 camera; front armrest; ambient lighting; white LED lights; autodim mirror; Cupra splitter; S-Line door blades; tints; UK pressed plates; MFSW; SDS; TPMS; LED Taillights and DRLs. RS aluminium pedals


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    Quote Originally Posted by daveyboy70 View Post
    Hey, ok , im new to auto`s!!, is a torque converter then? when i pull off especially, the revs rise rapidly but not the speed of the car, just like a clutch ! would in a manual car, when warmed up it doesnt seem as bad and when im in tiptroic mode. Any help please!
    What you've described there sounds like the normal operation of a torque converter, but if you are worried about, why not have it checked out? Do you know anyone who is experienced in driving automatics, who could drive it and give you an opinion on whether it is behaving normally or abnormally?

    All I would add is that until you are satisfied there is nothing wrong with the torque converter, you should hold off getting the engine re-mapped.
    A4 3.0TDi SE Quattro Auto. Factory-fit: RNS-E/bluetooth; F/R parking sensors; full leather/heated front seats; cruise. Retrofit: Remap; Eibach 30mm lowering springs, RS4 RARB; MTEC drilled/grooved discs; 18" RS4 alloys; VW fan washers; Kinetic Digitizor DAB; Blackvue DR380 camera; front armrest; ambient lighting; white LED lights; autodim mirror; Cupra splitter; S-Line door blades; tints; UK pressed plates; MFSW; SDS; TPMS; LED Taillights and DRLs. RS aluminium pedals


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    Quote Originally Posted by jjmurphy21187 View Post
    Does that mean that theoretically a torque converter has not upper torque limit then??
    I would imagine that, like most other major mechanical components, they are designed and built to different specifications depending on the application for which they are intended. After all, I don't imagine the torque converter used in a Roll-Royce Phantom is built to same spec as that used in an Astra Automatic. I think what Paul B7 was alluding to was that they have an in-built element of "over-engineering" - a safety margin if you like.
    A4 3.0TDi SE Quattro Auto. Factory-fit: RNS-E/bluetooth; F/R parking sensors; full leather/heated front seats; cruise. Retrofit: Remap; Eibach 30mm lowering springs, RS4 RARB; MTEC drilled/grooved discs; 18" RS4 alloys; VW fan washers; Kinetic Digitizor DAB; Blackvue DR380 camera; front armrest; ambient lighting; white LED lights; autodim mirror; Cupra splitter; S-Line door blades; tints; UK pressed plates; MFSW; SDS; TPMS; LED Taillights and DRLs. RS aluminium pedals


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    Torque converters are designed to slip, hence why automatics tend to be so irresponsive and "lazy" (choosing my words carefully here) unless they have the ability to lock up (most modern ones do) to a selected gear then that does help. This is the reason I wouldn't get an automatic unless its a dual clutch system like they use in many supercars and sports cars as they do not use torque converters. This the reason you see the difference on specified 0-60 times.

    There are upper limits in place as with all manufactured components. Although the failure point would probably be approximately around twice the torque you produce (don't quote me) due to the design.

    Audi A4 B7 3.0TDI S-Line Sprint Blue
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    Thanks guys for thoughts, will defo leave remap for a while until im happy, just it seems to be slipping more than it did when i first got car
    . Will take to local garage and see if they think there`s a problem.

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    Do you have issues reversing up a slope?
    My A6 does this and feels lazy to drive too.
    Its been suggested it might be low on oil.

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    Yes it does seem lazy when reversing off my steep drive, is that low on torque converter oil? or engine oil??!

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    Torque converters fail on the c5 rs6 often and are a know weak point. Some choose to upgrade this item using the ACE torque converter. Speaking to someone like JJB Motors, MRC, Unit20 or Bahnstorm will shed a little more light on this subject along with your issues.

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    Seeing as its a 2005 build, I'd be inclined to get the gearbox fluid/oil changed as a first step. The official Audi line is that the ZF boxes are "sealed for life" and don't need it, but I reckon that's got to be baloney... I think its generally accepted that what they really mean is "sealed until after your warranty runs out".

    Having spoken to an auto box specialist about getting mine serviced (been acting a bit grabby on downshifts lately), he said its not uncommon that the fluid slowly weeps out around the gearbox pan seal on the ZF 6HP (which I have) and it can need topping up. I figure its actually a good idea to replace the pan, filter, and as much of the oil as possible, as general preventative maintenance, as I am coming up to nearly 100K miles.

 

 

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