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  1. #1
    rowdyboy's Avatar
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    10k service, EGR clean and flapper valves

    Just completed my 10k service using Castrol edge and gen Audi parts, including fuel filter (£60!!!!!!).

    I decided to clean the EGR valve, thinking with 130k miles it'd be clogged up. However when I removed the connectors, I was surprised to see the valve virtually spotless !!!!
    What I did find however was the plastic manifold from the engine to the valve was heavily deposited. I whipped this off and removed about a tennis ball amount of build up !!! (wish I'd worn gloves!!!)

    I also checked the flapper valve motors and connecting rods, both worked perfectly and there was no movement/vibrating of the rods like some people have experienced.

    I think the problems people get are down to how these diesels are driven, too many short journeys and not revved enough. Obviously people like to keep the revs down for economy but in the long run it ends up costing you more in parts. Taking it up to high revs a couple of times a week clears deposits and keeps everything working as it should.
    Same with the flapper valves, they seem to fluctuate more at low revs, so obviously they'll wear quicker with that style of driving. Getting a couple of mpg more doesn't make up for a ££££ repair bill.

    Just my thoughts.
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  3. #2
    jjmurphy21187's Avatar
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    Makes me feel slightly less guilty when I adopt the opinion "If I wanted to be economical I would've bought a 2ltr diesel..." and give it some stick every now and then

    Car: 2007 A4 3.0TDI Quattro S-Line Cabriolet
    Mods: Pipercross Panel Filter, Smarttop, LED Plate Bulbs, LED Interior Bulbs, Blue LED Needles, Remap, EGR Delete, Custom Stainless Exhaust (4" Slash Tips), Cupra-R Splitter, Embossed Number Plates, 19" BBS CH Reps & Vredestein Ultra Sessanta's, 12mm TPI Spacers, -30m H&R Springs, MTEC Black Edition Brakes (Dimpled & Grooved), Mintex Pads, RS4 RARB, Vibe Square Subwoofer in Ski-pass & Alpine MRP-350 Amp

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  4. #3
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    Took mine to the garage last week to read an error code and he said drive in a lower gear now and then and get the revs up but stay below the red and drive it for 10 minutes or so, seems a bit harsh to me but he says it burns away all the deposits

  5. #4
    rowdyboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mm707 View Post
    Took mine to the garage last week to read an error code and he said drive in a lower gear now and then and get the revs up but stay below the red and drive it for 10 minutes or so, seems a bit harsh to me but he says it burns away all the deposits
    Its not harsh at all, you wouldn't think twice about taking a petrol car up to 4k revs.

    My other half had an ongoing problem with her diesel, loss of power and hesitation. I took it out and thrashed it at high revs for 10 mins and it was like a different car after.
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    rowdyboy, did you remove the EGR or just the connectors?

  7. #6
    rowdyboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by .Jas. View Post
    rowdyboy, did you remove the EGR or just the connectors?
    I removed the EGR, the connecting pipe and the plastic manifold from the top of the engine to the EGR.
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  8. #7
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    How easy was it to remove the EGR, looks well difficult to me!

  9. #8
    JasonS's Avatar
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    I have a 115 mile commute which is mostly 60-65mph motorway.

    On the way home I drag up the hill on the A505 Baldock bypass as it's the only way I can get high revs and exercise the turbo without high speed.

    My previous Audi 5cyl 2.5 TDI used to churn out clouds of smoke on the hill, my current one generates hardly a puff, but my EGR pipes are pretty clear.
    2005 A4 Sport Cabriolet 2.5 TDI
    Previous Audis:
    1997 A6 Avant 2.5 TDI Quattro
    1994 80 Cabriolet 2.0
    1995 S6 2.2t 20v Quattro
    1998 A6 Saloon 1.8t
    1995 A6 Saloon 2.0

  10. #9
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    I did mine too,

    The first stage is to loosen off all the bolts, manifold is easy, egr pip is a little harder,

    The EGR valve itself is difficult if you don't have a long thin spline drive, but other than that reasonably simple.

    I took some photos and agree the amount of rubbish that came out of the inlet .. sticks to everything!!

    I have disconnected the EGR vacuum pipe, have a fault light, but getting 3mpg more!! will reset it sometime.

  11. #10
    rowdyboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by .Jas. View Post
    How easy was it to remove the EGR, looks well difficult to me!
    To be honest, not difficult at all but I'm an engineer by trade, so that helps.
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  12. #11
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    Does anyone have pictures of the EGR valve and location on the 3.0 tdi? Mines at 125k now, would mind giving it a good clean out.

  13. #12
    rowdyboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emmo View Post
    Does anyone have pictures of the EGR valve and location on the 3.0 tdi? Mines at 125k now, would mind giving it a good clean out.
    Take the engine cover off and you'll see a black plastic, 2 branch mmanifold running to the front of the engine bay. Follow that to the right and it connects to a metal connecting pipe. That pipe contours down and connects to the valve. There's also a smaller braided pipe that connects into the main pipe. It's quicker to describe than post a pic. It makes sense when you're looking at the engine.
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    Thanks, I'll have a look when I've got a moment. I assume paraffin/detergent mixture will be ok for cleaning off any buildup?

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emmo View Post
    Thanks, I'll have a look when I've got a moment. I assume paraffin/detergent mixture will be ok for cleaning off any buildup?
    I used isopropyl alcohol that I got from work. Most people use carb cleaner I think. It's pretty tough stuff to remove. It needs scraping away with something to start with, before you use the solvent.
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