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Thread: Another 2.0TDI EGR Valve Cleaning Thread - with before and after pics.

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    Richardesty's Avatar
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    Another 2.0TDI EGR Valve Cleaning Thread - with before and after pics.

    Having read all about the need to clean the EGR valve on the 2.0 TDi engines, I recently decided to give mine a clean....

    Not a desperately difficult job, providing you have a torx bit set, a 10mm socket, some carb cleaner, replacement gaskets (advisable).....and either latex gloves or hand cleaner, this is one messy job!!!

    Lincoln Audi had the following gasket and seals in stock, and supplied them for a grand total of £13.43 Worth it I reckon if you're gonna do it:
    • U03G 131 547 F Z30 Gasket
    • U03L 131 547 B Z25 Seal
    • U069 131 547 D DR1C Gasket

    The car has done 92,000 miles - but the valve was replaced under warranty at around 20k - so the photos relate to about 72k's worth of gunk!

    Here's what I found inside my EGR valve:



    And here's the slimy gunk that came out:



    After about 20 or 30 minutes worth of scraping/spraying/wiping it looked like this:




    Pleased to report that the car started upon reassembly - but I've not yet been on a long drive, so I'm unsure if the cleaner valve will show any improvement in performance etc......but I can't imagine it can be any worse!!!
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    Hi Rich. I'm absolutely sure you will notice a difference after cleaning that lot out, that looks pretty bad!
    Nathan

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wrath View Post
    Hi Rich. I'm absolutely sure you will notice a difference after cleaning that lot out, that looks pretty bad!
    Hey Nathan! You'd certainly think so, but it does make me wonder what the rest of the internals are like....

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    Probably like this:

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    Nathan

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    [QUOTE=Richardesty;1589057]Having read all about the need to clean the EGR valve on the 2.0 TDi engines, I recently decided to give mine a clean....

    Not a desperately difficult job, providing you have a torx bit set, a 10mm socket, some carb cleaner, replacement gaskets (advisable).....and either latex gloves or hand cleaner, this is one messy job!!!

    Hey Richardesty

    Don't suppose you have a picture of the location of the egr valve on you 2.0 TDI engine ? Would you mind uploading it if you have

    Cheers

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    Here's info from another thread posted by "low fuel"

    Ok first you are going to need the gaskets to replace the old ones with:
    EGR gasket : ETKA PART NO: 03G 131 547 F
    EGR cooler pipe gasket: ETKA PART NO: 069 131 547 D

    They cost £ 6.00 and your local vw/audi parts dept will have them.

    When you have those you can start taking it apart,
    I have numbered the picture from 1 to 4 you take them off in that order.

    1) Undo the bolt and push the pipe away from the EGR valve and Anti shudder valve so you have better access

    2) Undo the 2 bolts on the EGR cooler pipe

    3) Unclip the hose going to the Anti shudder valve, Then undo the three bolts on the Anti shudder valve and leave it resting on bottom of engine ( If blocked unclip the electrical connector and remove to clean )

    4) Undo the 3 bolts holding the EGR valve to the manifold and unclip electrical connector, Remove and undo the screws that hold the black plastic housing to the EGR and prise off with a screwdriver.

    You can now move the little flap of the EGR by turning the plastic cog mechanism, Use carb cleaner to remove carbon and make sure the metal ring around the little flap is in place properly and that the flap can close all the way.

    IF THE FLAP IS BROKEN OFF OR THE SHAFT THAT HOLD THE FLAP LOOKS DODGY DO NOT PUT IT BACK ON THE CAR, BUY A NEW EGR VALVE.

    This is because if the flap snaps off it will go into your engine and you can kiss goodbye to it.
    I hope ive explained it all clearly and hope you get yours sorted.

    A4 2.0 TDi 170 Quattro S Line
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    hi marky67,

    thanks for starting this thread... maybe you can help me out with some answers regarding the EGR...

    i own a 2005 audi a4 b7, BLB - worst engine probably audi ever built... and recently i noticed the EGR light is on, on my dashboard...
    i went to audi service they took the egr unit off, cleaned it, deleted the error and everything went fine for about 10 km or so...

    after i stopped the car, i noticed a brutal shake and after that the egr light went on again... that's how the car behave ever since... when i drive the car everything is fine, except for the stopping - that's when i get the shake.. and i am afraid the egr will affect the catalytic unit...

    what do you think i should do? change the entire egr unit? or try to take it off again and see if there's anything broken inside? maybe the egr flap remains open instead of closing when i turn off the engine...

    any help would be great...

    thanks in advance,
    Steff

    Quote Originally Posted by marky67 View Post
    Here's info from another thread posted by "low fuel"

    Ok first you are going to need the gaskets to replace the old ones with:
    EGR gasket : ETKA PART NO: 03G 131 547 F
    EGR cooler pipe gasket: ETKA PART NO: 069 131 547 D

    They cost £ 6.00 and your local vw/audi parts dept will have them.

    When you have those you can start taking it apart,
    I have numbered the picture from 1 to 4 you take them off in that order.

    1) Undo the bolt and push the pipe away from the EGR valve and Anti shudder valve so you have better access

    2) Undo the 2 bolts on the EGR cooler pipe

    3) Unclip the hose going to the Anti shudder valve, Then undo the three bolts on the Anti shudder valve and leave it resting on bottom of engine ( If blocked unclip the electrical connector and remove to clean )

    4) Undo the 3 bolts holding the EGR valve to the manifold and unclip electrical connector, Remove and undo the screws that hold the black plastic housing to the EGR and prise off with a screwdriver.

    You can now move the little flap of the EGR by turning the plastic cog mechanism, Use carb cleaner to remove carbon and make sure the metal ring around the little flap is in place properly and that the flap can close all the way.

    IF THE FLAP IS BROKEN OFF OR THE SHAFT THAT HOLD THE FLAP LOOKS DODGY DO NOT PUT IT BACK ON THE CAR, BUY A NEW EGR VALVE.

    This is because if the flap snaps off it will go into your engine and you can kiss goodbye to it.
    I hope ive explained it all clearly and hope you get yours sorted.


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    Steff, thats sounds remarkably like the Anti Judder valve which is attached to the EGR valve... maybe something has come adrift..

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    I'm no expert.... but agree with Willalone above..... check out the anti shudder valve, as this may not be operating correctly.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willalone View Post
    Steff, thats sounds remarkably like the Anti Judder valve which is attached to the EGR valve... maybe something has come adrift..
    Whats an anti judder valve??? I have the same symptoms after cleaning my EGR but it seems to be slowly improving.
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    Hoping to get this done in the next few days myself, do have one question though.

    Richardesty stated -
    • U03G 131 547 F Z30 Gasket
    • U03L 131 547 B Z25 Seal
    • U069 131 547 D DR1C Gasket
    Yet the post by low fuel only suggests part numbers for the two gaskets.

    Where does the seal mentioned in the OP by richardesty go? presuming it's required to be replaced or it wouldn't be mentioned
    A4 Avant tdi S-line

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    Quote Originally Posted by rowdyboy View Post
    Whats an anti judder valve??? I have the same symptoms after cleaning my EGR but it seems to be slowly improving.
    I do believe its for when you shut off your engine - its supposed to stop it dead, no running on.

    Quote Originally Posted by Daemon View Post
    Hoping to get this done in the next few days myself, do have one question though.

    Richardesty stated -
    • U03G 131 547 F Z30 Gasket
    • U03L 131 547 B Z25 Seal
    • U069 131 547 D DR1C Gasket
    Yet the post by low fuel only suggests part numbers for the two gaskets.

    Where does the seal mentioned in the OP by richardesty go? presuming it's required to be replaced or it wouldn't be mentioned
    There is a rubber seal between the anti shudder valve and EGR body, a gasket between the EGR valve body and inlet manifold, and another gasket between the EGR pipe and EGR valve body.
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    The 2 gaskets, I would definately change. (only £2.18 ea)
    The seal (V03L 131 547 B @ £6.87) mentioned, is a rubber (like a square "O" ring) that is compressed between the EGR & anti shudder valve.
    I changed this when I cleaned out the EGR valve, but I can see why some people may re-use it.... as it is just compressed to seal.
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    Ok that's great cheers guys. I'll probably just change it anyway, might as well whilst it's open.
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    that's just great... i thought i need to buy the entire egr unit, but i will just try to buy the anti shudder valve instead... i will keep you posted with my progress

    thanks everyone.. Willalone and marky67 you saved me guys! thanks so much... hope to get this thing fixed soon enough :D

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    Can't believe that local vw dealer would not sell me the egr gasget even though I gave him the part number because it was 'brand specific' and I need to go to audi to buy it , 20 miles away !

    Will get it from millers online

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    okay, i checked the shudder valve and noticed there's a flap that should probably close the air intake when i turn off the engine, thus making the engine smoothly stop without any vibrations... the thing is that flap is never closing...

    together with a friend of mine we tried to watch what happens with the flap when i turn off the engine... it doesn't move... does this mean it is broken? who is controlling the move of the flap? is it the egr unit? i don't really understand how it works and who's controlling it? maybe an electrical signal? i'm stuck... oh and another thing, it seems i can't buy the damn egr shudder valve even if i want to... it comes together with the entire egr unit... ... i didn't even ask about the seals and gaskets anymore.... any further advice would be great..

    thanks in advance

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    Give these people a ring or drop them an e-mail - they reply quite quickly.

    www.murraysdirect.co.uk

    I find the main dealers a pain in the butt

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    Macdoon's Avatar
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    Well thought I would give it a go, have to say it was way easier than I thought it would be (a bit daunting at first), same amount of crud as yours Rich, but cleaned up good



    So I guess time will tell if there is any difference to the cold start rough idle.

    Mac
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    Just did mine, wasn't really worth it though. Thought by now 87,000 miles it might of been quite bad but it was nowhere near as bad as the original post pics. Still not like it costs the earth and only took an hour.
    A4 Avant tdi S-line

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    Does anybody know what bit i need exactly to remove the two bolts on the EGR cooler ? I was going to clean mine this morning but i didnt have anything that was anywhere near big enough to remove those two bolts. Are they definitely torx bolts ? And if so, what size are they ?

    I have quite a few torx screwdrivers but none were big enough to remove those two.

    Cheers

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    I cheated with those two and used a large allen key
    A4 Avant tdi S-line

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    Quote Originally Posted by Oddie View Post
    Does anybody know what bit i need exactly to remove the two bolts on the EGR cooler ? I was going to clean mine this morning but i didnt have anything that was anywhere near big enough to remove those two bolts. Are they definitely torx bolts ? And if so, what size are they ?

    I have quite a few torx screwdrivers but none were big enough to remove those two.

    Cheers
    I used a large allen key which worked better due to the angle as well

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    Cheers guys, i will try and acquire myself some large allen keys later on today

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    Any ideas which size torx bits I need to remove the egr and the inlet manifold ?

    Cleaning egr next week but will remove / clean out manifold and change vacuum actuator unit at the same time

    Thanks

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    Evening all. I followed these instructions and cleaned my EGR yesterday. It was full of big clumps of carbon which mainly just fell out once I got the EGR out. Anyway I reassembled the car and went for a drive and all went well.. Apart from when I stopped the car. When turning the car off it now judders/shakes, it definitely didn't do this before I took it apart.

    I am assuming this is something to do with the anti shudder valve ? I followed the guide and left the anti shudder valve sitting on the bottom of the engine so I didn't actually do anything with it.

    Any ideas what could be causing this ? And how I can sort it ? Cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by Oddie View Post
    Evening all. I followed these instructions and cleaned my EGR yesterday. It was full of big clumps of carbon which mainly just fell out once I got the EGR out. Anyway I reassembled the car and went for a drive and all went well.. Apart from when I stopped the car. When turning the car off it now judders/shakes, it definitely didn't do this before I took it apart.

    I am assuming this is something to do with the anti shudder valve ? I followed the guide and left the anti shudder valve sitting on the bottom of the engine so I didn't actually do anything with it.

    Any ideas what could be causing this ? And how I can sort it ? Cheers
    Hi,

    Did you also clean out the throttle body?

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    Hi mate. What is the throttle body exactly ? I only removed and cleaned the EGR valve, I just left the anti shudder unit in the engine bay
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    Hi,

    I believe from the pic, it is the anti-shudder unit. I thoroughly cleaned this also and found it gave the car a better response.

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    I went out last night and disconnected the big pipe which is held in place via the clip and then reconnected it. This has definitely made the juddering miles better when turning the car off. It must have been a bit loose when i reconnected it originally ?

    Now i am driving myself crazy wondering whether it shuts down normally or whether there is still a little judder ? And if there was a little judder before i touched it ? ARGGHHH !
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  32. #31
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    Another 2.0TDI EGR Valve Cleaning Thread - with before and after pics.

    I've had my 2.0TDI Avant for a couple of weeks now, it's got 85k on the clock and seems to be running very well, the only 'issues' are as follows:

    -Misfires for a couple of seconds when starting from cold
    -Seems very flat, (sems to not have enough torque) in 1st gear only.

    I'm hoping the first issue is dirty injectors, I did a bit of research and have bought come BG244 to run through this week. (£17.99 from powerenhancer.co.uk using the discount code 'CLUB'), I am interested to see if it makes any difference as cold misfire/lumpy idle should be easy to detect and improvement on.

    The second I thought may be DPF but the car pulls very well in other gears once over 2k rpm, the next on the list is EGR so after reading this very useful thread (thanks to the guys who put the info in) I've bought the new gaskets (£14.50 from Audi) and will attack the EGR at the weekend (I want to gauge the effect of the 244 in isolation first).

    Will post results as I find them, fingers crossed I can solve bothe niggles for under £40!

    Thanks again

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    Quote Originally Posted by tr3m5 View Post
    I've had my 2.0TDI Avant for a couple of weeks now, it's got 85k on the clock and seems to be running very well, the only 'issues' are as follows:

    -Misfires for a couple of seconds when starting from cold
    -Seems very flat, (sems to not have enough torque) in 1st gear only.

    I'm hoping the first issue is dirty injectors, I did a bit of research and have bought come BG244 to run through this week. (£17.99 from powerenhancer.co.uk using the discount code 'CLUB'), I am interested to see if it makes any difference as cold misfire/lumpy idle should be easy to detect and improvement on.

    The second I thought may be DPF but the car pulls very well in other gears once over 2k rpm, the next on the list is EGR so after reading this very useful thread (thanks to the guys who put the info in) I've bought the new gaskets (£14.50 from Audi) and will attack the EGR at the weekend (I want to gauge the effect of the 244 in isolation first).

    Will post results as I find them, fingers crossed I can solve bothe niggles for under £40!

    Thanks again
    I use BG244 as well, seems to make some improvement but I always use during a service so would not be able to comment on whether it is solely because of this.

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    Following on from yesterdays comments, i felt my car was still juddering a bit when shutting the car off. When i got home tonight i took the anti shudder valve off and thoroughly cleaned it ( I didnt touch this originally at weekend ). I checked that the rubber seal was in place and not perished, all seemed fine. I cleaned it and re assembled it and now it is juddering even worse when i shut the car off ! It judders quite badly now when turning the car off.

    I wish i wouldn't have touched it now. Any ideas what i could have done to cause this ? Could it be the EGR valve causing the juddering or is that solely caused by the anti shudder valve ?

    Any ideas how much a new ASV is ?

    Thanks

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    Just to add to what i said earlier, i went out before and disconnected the big black pipe from the anti shudder valve. I had the mrs fire the car up and watched the flap inside the valve to see if it closed when she turned the car off and it did, the flap closed up and then re opened once the car had powered off.

    If the flap is opening and closing properly as it should do, what it causing the juddering ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Oddie View Post
    Just to add to what i said earlier, i went out before and disconnected the big black pipe from the anti shudder valve. I had the mrs fire the car up and watched the flap inside the valve to see if it closed when she turned the car off and it did, the flap closed up and then re opened once the car had powered off.

    If the flap is opening and closing properly as it should do, what it causing the juddering ?
    Hi, if the valve is opening and closing as it should, and the juddering only occurred after cleaning the egr/throttle, then I'd suggest dismantling the whole unit again checking the setup of the egr (that also has a flap) and making sure there is no debris or anything.

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    Quote Originally Posted by i_786_i View Post
    Hi, if the valve is opening and closing as it should, and the juddering only occurred after cleaning the egr/throttle, then I'd suggest dismantling the whole unit again checking the setup of the egr (that also has a flap) and making sure there is no debris or anything.
    Could the EGR valve be causing the shuddering or will it definitely be the anti shudder valve / throttle body ?

  38. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oddie View Post
    Could the EGR valve be causing the shuddering or will it definitely be the anti shudder valve / throttle body ?
    When previously cleaning throttle on other cars, found that this would more improve acceleration/hesitation. One car kept cutting out randomly, once this was cleaned - problem solved

    It seems strange that you seem to have this problem only after cleaning the EGR valve, my best bet is that something isn't connected right.

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    Quote Originally Posted by i_786_i View Post
    When previously cleaning throttle on other cars, found that this would more improve acceleration/hesitation. One car kept cutting out randomly, once this was cleaned - problem solved

    It seems strange that you seem to have this problem only after cleaning the EGR valve, my best bet is that something isn't connected right.
    It is really beggining to frustrate me now, i cant think what i may have done wrong. I didn't buy any new gaskets or seals, i just used the old ones. Could the gaskets be causing this issue ?

    I would imagine that it is only the anti shudder valve that can cause the shuddering when shutting down and there is only one seal on the anti shudder valve which is just a rubber compressed seal so i cant imagine this needing to be replaced ?

  40. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oddie View Post
    It is really beggining to frustrate me now, i cant think what i may have done wrong. I didn't buy any new gaskets or seals, i just used the old ones. Could the gaskets be causing this issue ?

    I would imagine that it is only the anti shudder valve that can cause the shuddering when shutting down and there is only one seal on the anti shudder valve which is just a rubber compressed seal so i cant imagine this needing to be replaced ?
    When replacing mine, Audi recommend changing the 2 gaskets for the EGR and leaving the rubber one. This is what I done and had no issues. The gaskets are cheap around £2.50 each the rubber is about £9. I personally would change them now if your planning to remove again as they are thin material and prone to weaken and break.

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    Quote Originally Posted by i_786_i View Post
    When replacing mine, Audi recommend changing the 2 gaskets for the EGR and leaving the rubber one. This is what I done and had no issues. The gaskets are cheap around £2.50 each the rubber is about £9. I personally would change them now if your planning to remove again as they are thin material and prone to weaken and break.
    OK, i am going to visit my local Audi dealer later and pick up the parts. I will take it all apart again at weekend, give everything a thorough clean once again and hope that it sorts itself out !

    Thanks for all your help so far

 

 
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