Please can someone assist??? 2.0TDi BLB problems :(

watchdog

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*** Firstly please excuse me if this topic has already been covered I appologise in advance ***
Hi Guys I’m new to this site and to be honest I haven’t really had a chance to look through the forum properly other than flicking through the balance tensioner stuff.

I have made a post but unfortunately got no reply :crying:

A few weeks (maybe a month ago) back the engine oil light came on the dash I stopped at the local petrol station and bought some oil and topped it up, light went off and all seemed fine until now. 2 weeks ago the car was lacking power letting out lots of black smoke intermittently, I managed to get home and parked it up when I tried to start it back up it fired up but went straight back off, i tried this a few times and same thing it starts up but turns straight back off, noticed its smokes from the exhaust when I try and start it.

Today I got a friend to hook it up to a computer and i got the following and I really am clueless on what to do next, has anyone experienced this or can someone tell me what I need to do? I don’t know any good mechanics and cannot afford to go to the stealers :crying:

VCDS Version: Beta 812.4

Address 01: Engine
Control Module Part Number: 03G 906 016 GN
Component and/or Version: R4 2,0L EDC G000SG 9618
Software Coding: 0000072
Work Shop Code: WSC 00732
6 Faults Found

17055 - Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Circuit (Q10): Electrical Fault
P0671 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame
RPM: 840 /min
Torque: 42.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 14.21 V
Bin. Bits: 00101100
Temperature: 15.3°C
Bin. Bits: 10110000

17056 - Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Circuit (Q11): Electrical Fault
P0672 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame
RPM: 840 /min
Torque: 42.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 14.21 V
Bin. Bits: 00101100
Temperature: 15.3°C
Bin. Bits: 10110000

17058 - Cylinder 4 Glow Plug Circuit (Q13): Electrical Fault
P0674 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame
RPM: 840 /min
Torque: 42.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 14.21 V
Bin. Bits: 00101100
Temperature: 15.3°C
Bin. Bits: 10110000

16787 - EGR Valve (N18): Malfunction
P0403 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame
RPM: 1890 /min
Torque: 64.0 Nm
Speed: 44.0 km/h
Duty Cycle: 84.4 %
Voltage: 14.06 V
Mass Air / Rev.: 685.0 mg/str
Duty Cycle: 21.3 %
Bin. Bits: 00000000

16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame
RPM: 1008 /min
Torque: 22.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Duty Cycle: 99.6 %
Bin. Bits: 00101100
Mass Air / Rev.: 510.0 mg/str
Mass Air / Rev.: 0.0 mg/str

19557 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Open or Short to Ground
P3101 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame
RPM: 0 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 11.63 V
Bin. Bits: 00101100
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Torque: 351.4 Nm
Readiness: 0 3 0 0 0
 
I suspect that there is a wiring or fuse problem causing the glow plug errors. From what I know it's likely to be the wiring harness rather than the plugs. The black smoke and error about the EGR valve suggests you have a stuck EGR valve and it needs cleaning. There was a thread the other month about cleaning it. As to the other errors I cannot help.
 
Thanks Wrath, i will look into this...

Is the wiring harness an easy job to do? any ideas how much it is? or how i can find out if this is the problem? Is there a write up on this?

Appreciate your help!
 
I did a Google search and found various VAG car threads about the harness. Just see if there are any cracks in the wiring or water in the fusebox first.
 
unlikley to be wiring.
id bob the egr valve off and inspect it first. the little rotating flap in them fall off the shaft leaving the valve wide open all the time.
its a little fiddly as you need to remove the throttle body first.
 
thanks wrath and murran!

i will try and look into this on weekend and will update you!
 
Hi all, just wanted to update you

After 3 weeks my B7 is back on the road!!!! woohoo i cant explain how happy i ma, i thought that i had the oil pump/tensioner problem

Thanks to Wrath and murran today i took off the egr valave and realised how dirty it was, bare in mind im no mechanic but the job was sooo easy!

To take the valve/throttle body off took me half hour (never had the right tools)theres one bolt at the back that was a bit of a pain to get too but with patience it was ok, got it off and cleanerd it with carberator cleaner and scraped all the muck of it, at this point i noticed that the EGR flap weas in the open position i was not aware what position it should be in, any how after cleaning i put it back on and went to start the car but same problem.

I called my local GSF (being a saturday) and they had a EGR on the shelf went in and seen that the flap was in the closed position straight away bought it (£160.00) thats with my mates trade discount. Came home and took the throttle body off the old EGR and put it on the new one and fitted it to the car.

Went to start the car and it fired up!! and stayed on!!! best 30 seconds of my life.

Now im worried about the oil pump/Tensioner problem should i change it? how much will it cost? is it a easy job?

Or..

Should i sell the car???

Once again thanks for your help
 
Thinking about looking at my EGR valve just because I'm curious. Glad it worked okay, have you cleared the errors and watched to seee if anymore came up on VCDS?

Insofar as the oil pump issue goes, yes, it needs doing before you total the engine. As Paul has posted on the main thread, Audi don't appear to have any stock at the moment but if a dealer does it you are looking at round £1900. You can do it yourself but it's quite demanding or you can get hold of the cheapo replacement chain and do it yourself but that buys you only a few years.

I swapped mine over at the same time the cambelt and water pump was due. I just didn't like driving around in a timebomb.
 
Thinking about looking at my EGR valve just because I'm curious. Glad it worked okay, have you cleared the errors and watched to seee if anymore came up on VCDS?

Insofar as the oil pump issue goes, yes, it needs doing before you total the engine. As Paul has posted on the main thread, Audi don't appear to have any stock at the moment but if a dealer does it you are looking at round £1900. You can do it yourself but it's quite demanding or you can get hold of the cheapo replacement chain and do it yourself but that buys you only a few years.

I swapped mine over at the same time the cambelt and water pump was due. I just didn't like driving around in a timebomb.

Thats quite an expesive job, i might just get ridd of it :(
I hgavnt cleared the fault codes yet but notice there is no engine management light? will i still need to get the faults cleared?