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Thread: Audi A4 Cabriolet Soft Top/ Roof / Hood Motor Repair Guide

  1. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by markhaines View Post
    Hi, my A4 B7 seems to be suffering from the same problem. I've just been following your awesome instructions to get to the motor. I've got access to it but have noticed theres a residue in the bay below it. Am wondering if perhaps some of the hydraulic fluid has leaked at some point (it looks sticky / dried rather than fluid). Shown in attached photo.

    The reservoir has fluid in it, I'd say approx 1/3 full, its below the Min level indicated on the reverse side of it. Should I top it up? What should I use to top it up with?

    Any tips or advice gratefully received!

    Cheers

    Mark
    Hello mark,

    Yes I've seen that many a times, sometimes the plug can be loose or the fluid weeps. In either case get a bottle for the dealers it's only £7 a bottle and top it up

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  3. #362
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    Hello and thank you for the wonderfull guide.

    Like so many others here, I'd like your input, before actually trying your repair or what the dealership is saying.

    My roof did get stuck when trying to close a week ago. It was actually stuck in a weird position, at the point where the rear window needs to be lifted in order for the roof cover to close.

    It was closing down if I tried to close it, but opening would fail. So I ended up closing it manually. (Every time I was opening the ignition though, the roof check light was blinking)
    A few days later, the roof operated just fine and I was able to use it again without any issues, so I thought it might have been something temporarily. But just to be sure I also called the dealership to get this checked.

    Today when arriving at the dealership and trying to close the roof, it stopped at the point where it would latch the roof and I had to latch it manually.

    They've checked the fault codes (unfortunatelly I don't have those) and told me that I need to change the ECU of the roof (part number 8H0959255B) and one roof sensor (part number 8H0959613A), which both cost 380Euro, plus 160Euro for their work.

    Now before I throw away this kind of money, I'd like to ask if it's worth trying this repair with the motor.
    My motor, even the day it stuck was generating noise (as if it was working), but was not moving the parts of the roof.

    Is this something else, so I should go with their repair, or should I try something else (or what you have done) here?

    Thank you in advance.

    P.S.
    Unfortunately I cannot use any of the ebay motor repair services, since I'm located at Greece, but I suppose I could find someone that is specializing in electric motor repairs to take a look at the motor if needed.

  4. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lefteris23 View Post
    Hello and thank you for the wonderfull guide.

    Like so many others here, I'd like your input, before actually trying your repair or what the dealership is saying.

    My roof did get stuck when trying to close a week ago. It was actually stuck in a weird position, at the point where the rear window needs to be lifted in order for the roof cover to close.

    It was closing down if I tried to close it, but opening would fail. So I ended up closing it manually. (Every time I was opening the ignition though, the roof check light was blinking)
    A few days later, the roof operated just fine and I was able to use it again without any issues, so I thought it might have been something temporarily. But just to be sure I also called the dealership to get this checked.

    Today when arriving at the dealership and trying to close the roof, it stopped at the point where it would latch the roof and I had to latch it manually.

    They've checked the fault codes (unfortunatelly I don't have those) and told me that I need to change the ECU of the roof (part number 8H0959255B) and one roof sensor (part number 8H0959613A), which both cost 380Euro, plus 160Euro for their work.

    Now before I throw away this kind of money, I'd like to ask if it's worth trying this repair with the motor.
    My motor, even the day it stuck was generating noise (as if it was working), but was not moving the parts of the roof.

    Is this something else, so I should go with their repair, or should I try something else (or what you have done) here?

    Thank you in advance.

    P.S.
    Unfortunately I cannot use any of the ebay motor repair services, since I'm located at Greece, but I suppose I could find someone that is specializing in electric motor repairs to take a look at the motor if needed.
    Hello, from what you describe you are correct in saying that your motor is functioning fine. It sounds like a faulty micro switch or bow position sensor, the way to identify which one is faulty is to look at the measuring block using VCDS. The dealer should tell you which switch and why they want to change the ECU....

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    Quote Originally Posted by VagPro View Post
    Hello, from what you describe you are correct in saying that your motor is functioning fine. It sounds like a faulty micro switch or bow position sensor, the way to identify which one is faulty is to look at the measuring block using VCDS. The dealer should tell you which switch and why they want to change the ECU....

    Thank you for your answer.

    They told me that what they suggest needs replacements, is based on what their diagnostic machine picked up as Error Codes.
    In my question, why do I need to replace the ECU on top of the faulty (8H0959613A: Audi 8H0959613A Convertible Soft Top Potentiometer | eBay) roof potentiometer, they told me that they are picking up an error code on the ECU too.

    When I told them I'd like to only replace the sensor (potentiometer) and if the problem continues, then proceed with the ECU, they told me that the potentiometer is a newer version that is incompatible with my ECU (which I find hard to believe) and that the ECU is a newer version.

    I will take my car to another dealership and see what they suggest.
    For now, after they have cleared the errors, the roof is working again fine and no errors are indicated on the dashboard.
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  6. #365
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    Hi Krumz, I'm another success story to add to your ever increasing army.I 've only had my car a month and have already spent out on a new clutch, flywheel, wheel refurb, aircon regas and paintwork for front stonechips and when my roof didn't want to go back up I must admit I nearly soiled my pants. The rear deck only come up about 2 inches and that was it. I manually put the hood up and left it. I checked after a couple of days and the hood worked fine but just to be on the safe side I tackled the job this morning. The commutator was dirty and one of the brushes was stuck, so there you have it, all done. The hardest bit was getting off and putting back on the side panel. If your in my neck off the woods there's a crate off beer waiting. Thanks a lot John
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  7. #366
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    What a great thread, and a very big THANK YOU. Experienced the same problem with my 09 A4. Found a very dirty commutator and a stuck brush.

    The tip about usign a multimeter to see if the motor is getting power is a good one. Mine was getting 12volts at the motor plug, so I knew it was a motor problem and not something else.

    If you're ever in the states, I owe you a beer. (A proper beer, not an American one!)
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  8. #367
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    I just wanted to add my thanks for this really useful guide!

    Unfortunately I don't think my problem is motor/pump related. It's similar to, though not exactly the same as Sualp's.

    Before I get into the detail I want to buy one of the diagnostic cables that are referred to so often in this thread so that I'm ready with the fault codes. Please can you let me know whether I need to buy an OBD2 II for about £10 or a VCDS for about £55? Is there anything else I need to take into account when deciding which e-bay add to go for?

    Thanks very much!

  9. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Nige View Post
    I just wanted to add my thanks for this really useful guide!

    Unfortunately I don't think my problem is motor/pump related. It's similar to, though not exactly the same as Sualp's.

    Before I get into the detail I want to buy one of the diagnostic cables that are referred to so often in this thread so that I'm ready with the fault codes. Please can you let me know whether I need to buy an OBD2 II for about £10 or a VCDS for about £55? Is there anything else I need to take into account when deciding which e-bay add to go for?

    Thanks very much!
    Hello Nige,

    Thanks for the feedback. If its not the motor then its more than likely a position switch. You need vcds that let's you look at the fault codes and measuring blocks on channel 1. This will help you diagnose it. I am not sure what the £55 one eBay gets you, as a proper version of vcds is £250. Obviously clear the codes and see which ones reappear.

    Where about are you ? Near leicester by any chance ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by VagPro View Post
    Hello Nige,

    Thanks for the feedback. If its not the motor then its more than likely a position switch. You need vcds that let's you look at the fault codes and measuring blocks on channel 1. This will help you diagnose it. I am not sure what the £55 one eBay gets you, as a proper version of vcds is £250. Obviously clear the codes and see which ones reappear.

    Where about are you ? Near leicester by any chance ?
    Hi VagPro

    Thanks for the swift reply!

    I live near Shrewsbury, about an hour and a half from Leicester but would be very happy to drive over.

    The only problem is that the fault is intermittent - it's up to about one time in four now but life being what it is, it'll probably behave itself when an expert is looking at it! As I say, I'd be very happy to drive over but I wouldn't want to waste your time.

    Thanks, Nige'

  11. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Nige View Post
    Hi VagPro

    Thanks for the swift reply!

    I live near Shrewsbury, about an hour and a half from Leicester but would be very happy to drive over.

    The only problem is that the fault is intermittent - it's up to about one time in four now but life being what it is, it'll probably behave itself when an expert is looking at it! As I say, I'd be very happy to drive over but I wouldn't want to waste your time.

    Thanks, Nige'
    Hi Nige,

    Yep I see your logic, by all means pop over for a diagnostic check but I doubt we can nail it down if its an intermittent fault.

    Regarding the leads looks like the £50 ones are clones / pirated versions of the genuine £250 full versions. The cheaper ones will work but you may not have all the fault code descriptions...

    Let's me know how you get on...

  12. #371
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    Another success story! Thank you all for your help, in particular to the guide writer!

    If you ever come to Lisboa will be glad to pay you a beer!

    Regards!
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    This may sound defeatist, but one of my brushes is sticking again. After prying the open the holder, it still wants to stick. Is this time to buy a new motor, or is there a way to disassemble it clean it further? I did lightly wipe a swap with oil on the exposed brush, and that helped. Just do not think it is a long term solution. Thoughts?

  14. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by nedfp View Post
    This may sound defeatist, but one of my brushes is sticking again. After prying the open the holder, it still wants to stick. Is this time to buy a new motor, or is there a way to disassemble it clean it further? I did lightly wipe a swap with oil on the exposed brush, and that helped. Just do not think it is a long term solution. Thoughts?
    Hello, you have to pry open the brush carriers far enough to ensure there is enough clearance for the brushes to move freely. If they are getting stuck then you have not pried it open far enough. You need at least see a slight 'V'.

    I do not recommend oil as I am of the opinion it will attract dust.

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    I was getting much informations on this thread, thank you guys all. Although I have some questions.

    Mine does not move at all, zero movements(not even front latches) just gives me a message "Soft Top Cannot Be Used."

    seats/trunk operates normally so no fuse issues. I tried manual opening and closing method couple of times with keys on(engine running), no luck.

    I checked with my friends code reader, it gives me 02000, 02023. After a reset, it just gives me 02000.

    any inputs will be greatly appreciated.

    J.

  16. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by gloa2000 View Post
    I was getting much informations on this thread, thank you guys all. Although I have some questions.

    Mine does not move at all, zero movements(not even front latches) just gives me a message "Soft Top Cannot Be Used."

    seats/trunk operates normally so no fuse issues. I tried manual opening and closing method couple of times with keys on(engine running), no luck.

    I checked with my friends code reader, it gives me 02000, 02023. After a reset, it just gives me 02000.

    any inputs will be greatly appreciated.

    J.
    Hello J,

    If it a fault code is not clearing this is because one of your micro switches is giving an implausible signal. Make sure that the top lock and hood storage compartment are locked correctly (lock and unlock them until it goes no further)

    If this doesn't work you will have to read mbv 1 and 2 on channel 1 and compare it to the standard values earlier in those post. This will help you identify which switch is faulty.

    Also keep engine running while trying to operate roof.

    Regards
    Khurrum

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    Thank you very much for your fast reply, Khurrum.

    It looks like I would have to use the Vagcom unit to get the mbv 1 and 2 on channel 1? All my pal has is reader from SnapOn.

  18. #377
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    Hi J,

    No problem, I'd say have a play with those locks first and make sure you're confident, I've come across a few now where they've been manually operated but not engaged fully. Otherwise yes you will need vcds. Where are you in the UK?
    Let me know how you get on.
    Regards
    Khurrum

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    I am pretty sure the Locks were done correctly, if I don't get it right the convertible yellow lights will not turn off, right? but I will try again few times just to make sure. Thanks again, Khurrum

    BTW, I am in US.

  20. #379
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    Had the same problem and followed your guide this afternoon. Took me about 90mins and all seems A OK, another very satisfied customer. Thanks very much for a comprehensive and very clear guide, I wonder how many £1000's in 'stealer' fees you have saved us all?
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  21. #380
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    Hi all,

    just had my car serviced and the vagcom readout gives me this error.

    Address 26: Auto Roof
    Part Number: 8H0 959 255.lbl
    Component: VSG B6 CABRIO 7094
    Work Shop Code: WSC 00672 785 00200
    vcid: 346129c3541635be40b-5168
    2 Fault Found:
    02000 - Switch Position
    008 - Implausible Signal
    01988 convertible top operation switch (e137); close
    012 electrical fault in circuit.

    has anyone any idea what this means. I've cleaned the motor like shown and there's no noise from the motor when I try and close the roof ?

    Thanks for any help.

  22. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smithk77 View Post
    Hi all,

    just had my car serviced and the vagcom readout gives me this error.

    Address 26: Auto Roof
    Part Number: 8H0 959 255.lbl
    Component: VSG B6 CABRIO 7094
    Work Shop Code: WSC 00672 785 00200
    vcid: 346129c3541635be40b-5168
    2 Fault Found:
    02000 - Switch Position
    008 - Implausible Signal
    01988 convertible top operation switch (e137); close
    012 electrical fault in circuit.

    has anyone any idea what this means. I've cleaned the motor like shown and there's no noise from the motor when I try and close the roof ?

    Thanks for any help.
    Hello smith,

    1) have the codes reappeared once they we're reset ?

    2) does the roof open an inch or so, when the switch is operated?

    3) did you confirm the brushes are free to move?

    Regards
    Khurrum
    www.vagpro.co.uk

  23. #382
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    Quote Originally Posted by VagPro View Post
    Hello smith,

    1) have the codes reappeared once they we're reset ?

    2) does the roof open an inch or so, when the switch is operated?

    3) did you confirm the brushes are free to move?

    Regards
    Khurrum
    www.vagpro.co.uk
    Hi Khurrum,

    ive vey not had chance to open my roof it's not stopped raining in brum since I had it done. My roof will open and go back into the boot no problem and the whole cycle finishes with the windows closing, however when I try and close the roof I get nothing my windows don't even drop?

    ive prised the bushes open wide enough for them to slide easily with no resistance.

    hope this helps?

    Cheers,

    kieren

  24. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smithk77 View Post
    Hi Khurrum,

    ive vey not had chance to open my roof it's not stopped raining in brum since I had it done. My roof will open and go back into the boot no problem and the whole cycle finishes with the windows closing, however when I try and close the roof I get nothing my windows don't even drop?

    ive prised the bushes open wide enough for them to slide easily with no resistance.

    hope this helps?

    Cheers,

    kieren
    Hi Kieren

    If the roof completes the opening cycle then it is not the motor, what is the first fault code you get once you clear the codes?

    Next step is to check the mbv to see if the switches are working ok

    Regard
    Khurrum
    www.vagpro.co.uk

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    Thank you thank you thank you I've just fixed my mrs car with this step by step guide and it has worked a treat, I can't thank you enough. It's saved me a pissin fortune! I am forever in your debt.
    A3SBBE 2LTDI140 DSG-BLACK HALF LEATHER-PARKIN SENS'-BLACK STITCH-CRUISE CTRL, ELEC. FOLDIN MIRRORS-GSM MOB PREPBLUETOOTH-HANDS3 IN ARMREST-IPOD CNECT, LIGHT&RAIN SENS' NONSMOKIN-BOOTMAT-SYMPHONY RADIO+6CD-18"5ARM ROTR ALLOYS-FLAT BTM MULTFUNC STEERIN-BLACK INLAYS & HEADLININ-XEN+HEADLAMPS-MANUAL STYLE GEARKNOB 4 AUTO-PRIVACYGLASS-BOSE PREMSNDSYSTEM-DRIVER INFO SYSTEM-CLIMATE CTRL-INT.LIGHTS-HEATED FRNT SEATS-ELEC. DRIVER SEAT-BEAM ASSIST-TYRE PRESURE SENS-1ST AID-KIT.

  26. #385
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    My roof will not open. I get 3 fault codes.
    02000 - Switch position
    008 - Implausible Signal
    01618 - Automatic Convertible Top Valve 2 (N272)
    009 - Open or Short to ground
    01984 - Automatic Convertible Top Valve 2 (N341)
    009 - Open or Short to ground

    I have done a number of manual resets.
    How to check the valves or cables for faults?

  27. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by AuAudiA4 View Post
    My roof will not open. I get 3 fault codes.
    02000 - Switch position
    008 - Implausible Signal
    01618 - Automatic Convertible Top Valve 2 (N272)
    009 - Open or Short to ground
    01984 - Automatic Convertible Top Valve 2 (N341)
    009 - Open or Short to ground

    I have done a number of manual resets.
    How to check the valves or cables for faults?
    Hello.

    What year is your car ? Have you cleared the codes and checked which ones appear first ?

  28. #387
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    Hi VagPro. First thanks for all your information here.
    The car is a 2006 A4. The diagnostic gave me them after I cleared the codes and re-run the test.
    The faults are in that order.

  29. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by AuAudiA4 View Post
    Hi VagPro. First thanks for all your information here.
    The car is a 2006 A4. The diagnostic gave me them after I cleared the codes and re-run the test.
    The faults are in that order.
    Hello,

    Not a problem at all, we aim please.

    The 02000 code is when the roof goes out of position. Check the resistance across your valves using a multimeter. Wiring diagrams are posted on page 1 of this post, check for continuity to the control module.

    I assume you have already checked all the fuses ?

    Regards
    Khurrum

  30. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by VagPro View Post
    Hello,

    Not a problem at all, we aim please.

    The 02000 code is when the roof goes out of position. Check the resistance across your valves using a multimeter. Wiring diagrams are posted on page 1 of this post, check for continuity to the control module.

    I assume you have already checked all the fuses ?

    Regards
    Khurrum
    Some progress.
    Switch position error is now cleared and gone.

    Still getting after clearing the codes.
    01618 - Automatic Convertible Top Valve 2 (N272)
    009 - Open or Short to ground
    01984 - Automatic Convertible Top Valve 2 (N341)
    009 - Open or Short to ground

    The 3 valves gave 12.4 Ohm each.
    Tested from T6k to ground and have no indication of a short.
    Is it time to get to the control unit and check the cables between there and T6K?

  31. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by AuAudiA4 View Post
    Some progress.
    Switch position error is now cleared and gone.

    Still getting after clearing the codes.
    01618 - Automatic Convertible Top Valve 2 (N272)
    009 - Open or Short to ground
    01984 - Automatic Convertible Top Valve 2 (N341)
    009 - Open or Short to ground

    The 3 valves gave 12.4 Ohm each.
    Tested from T6k to ground and have no indication of a short.
    Is it time to get to the control unit and check the cables between there and T6K?
    Hello,

    Great when you have someone who uses the correct terms ! Yes the next step is to check from T6k to the control unit.

    To get to the control unit you will need to remove the rear seats, headrests and driver side rear door card (RHD card). Getting the headrests out can be a challenge at the best of times. Do you have access to ELSA or shall I send you procedures ? To be safe what is your year, engine and gearbox code.

    Regards
    Khurrum
    www.audiconvertiblespecialist.co.uk

  32. #391
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    Hi, can you please send the procedures.
    Some data;
    Type 8HE oAH 50-2-4026
    Type explanation Cabrio 1.8
    E Code / G Code 120kw 120 A6M
    (A4 2006 first inspection May 2007)
    I love a challenge! 30 degrees in the shade at the moment! It makes the plastic nice and soft to work with.

    What about to get the stuff back in place :}
    Last edited by AuAudiA4; 14th January 2014 at 12:19.

  33. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by AuAudiA4 View Post
    Hi, can you please send the procedures.
    Some data;
    Type 8HE oAH 50-2-4026
    Type explanation Cabrio 1.8
    E Code / G Code 120kw 120 A6M
    (A4 2006 first inspection May 2007)
    I love a challenge! 30 degrees in the shade at the moment! It makes the plastic nice and soft to work with.

    What about to get the stuff back in place :}
    Hello,

    Rub it in, why don't you ! I have just been for a stroll during lunch and it is 3-4 degrees ! :Link to procedure below on my dropbox. Let me know how you get on. If you need to contact me details can be found on my facebook page or site.

    Removing and Installing Rear Seats and Trim Panel

    Regards
    Khurrum

  34. #393
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    Quote Originally Posted by VagPro View Post
    Hello,

    Rub it in, why don't you ! I have just been for a stroll during lunch and it is 3-4 degrees ! :Link to procedure below on my dropbox. Let me know how you get on. If you need to contact me details can be found on my facebook page or site.

    Removing and Installing Rear Seats and Trim Panel

    Regards
    Khurrum

    The head restrain guides gave me a run for the money!
    Measure the cables from the control unit to T6K for the valves there where all in 12.6 Ohm range.
    Checked the control unit for spiders, water and other creepy creatures - nothing.
    I'm a bit confused about "open" in the error code. I like twisty roads and this is one of the better ones!
    Any idees?

  35. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by AuAudiA4 View Post
    The head restrain guides gave me a run for the money!
    Measure the cables from the control unit to T6K for the valves there where all in 12.6 Ohm range.
    Checked the control unit for spiders, water and other creepy creatures - nothing.
    I'm a bit confused about "open" in the error code. I like twisty roads and this is one of the better ones!
    Any idees?
    Hmmmm interesting indeed.

    So to confirm, you have checked the resistance across the valves and the resistance across all three valves is consistent.

    You have checked the wiring from the control unit to the valves and there are no breaks. Is it worth running an exterior cable from the control unit to the valve to be certain ?

    It's weird but if the resistance on the valves is consistent and there are no wiring breaks this points towards the control unit being faulty, next steps:

    1) Swap the valves over to the one that is not showing a fault code and see if the fault follows

    2) I assume you have already checked all the fuses that are listed on the wiring diagram?

    3) Perform the output test using vcds and see if you are getting anything

    Goodnight and good luck from the UK

    Regards
    Khurrum
    www.audiconvertiblespecialist.co.uk

  36. #395
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    Recent updates:

    Quote Originally Posted by AuAudiA4
    Hi Khurrum,

    Spent the day doing some more tests.
    1. Checked the solenoids with 12v and got movements in all three. - PASS
    2. Swapped connectors between the valves and did a new VCDS, got the same fault codes. – FAIL
    3. Made a new cable connection between N272 and the control unit and did a new VCDS, got the same fault codes. - FAIL
    4. Tested the pump function etc from the VCDS and the pump started.
    5. Connected multimeter to each of the connectors to the the valves.
    Roof open, ignition on, and I got the following results;
    - N272 0 volt constant
    - N341 13.5v constant
    - N342 10.2v constant

    I tried to find any information about the expected results, but cant find anything.
    Should it really be a power feed even if you don't request movement from the roof?
    DO you have any information? And this looks like the control unit is bad.

    Thanks
    2) Proves the valves are actually fine, along side the resistance you have already checked.

    5) This is consistent with the roof operating philosophy document (Block Diagram on page 1 of thread) as the N272 valve is only energised during the storage compartment opening cycle.

    I have had these fault codes above when the hydraulic pump assembly has been unplugged. As I have never come across the control unit indicated by the fault codes you are getting I am still reluctant to say the control unit is to blame (however there is always a first time for everything).

    I appreciate that you have tested the wiring from the connectors, I would now be tempted to splice the wires and test/bridge it as close as possible to the actual valves themselves, but then again you would have not got consistent resistance when you measured from T6K ! OK is it still worth doing?

    I agree looks like the fault finding it pointing towards the control unit, you have looked for dry solder joints? Any chance of getting hold of one for testing? Whatever you do when you get one ensure it is Revision A or later. (We get them for around £100 on eBay here)

    Keep me updated

    Regards
    Khurrum

  37. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by VagPro View Post
    Recent updates:



    2) Proves the valves are actually fine, along side the resistance you have already checked.

    5) This is consistent with the roof operating philosophy document (Block Diagram on page 1 of thread) as the N272 valve is only energised during the storage compartment opening cycle.

    I have had these fault codes above when the hydraulic pump assembly has been unplugged. As I have never come across the control unit indicated by the fault codes you are getting I am still reluctant to say the control unit is to blame (however there is always a first time for everything).

    I appreciate that you have tested the wiring from the connectors, I would now be tempted to splice the wires and test/bridge it as close as possible to the actual valves themselves, but then again you would have not got consistent resistance when you measured from T6K ! OK is it still worth doing?

    I agree looks like the fault finding it pointing towards the control unit, you have looked for dry solder joints? Any chance of getting hold of one for testing? Whatever you do when you get one ensure it is Revision A or later. (We get them for around £100 on eBay here)

    Keep me updated

    Regards
    Khurrum
    Hi Khurrum


    I have bypassed the wires by doing new wire connections from the control unit to the valves, with no difference.
    Also checked the control board for bad soldering and found nothing. ( It is a Version A circuit board)
    The wife is always on me to get a second A4 and I can understand why. ( swapping parts)

    I found a B version of the controller and waiting for the arrival, to rule out the controller.

    My switch values are as below and I think they are Ok.
    Group 1
    Field 2 - Field 3
    11011010 - 10 1010
    Top-frame 225

    After clearing the fault codes and press the roof-switch to close, the windows goes down and I can hear a sound (3-4 sec) from the boot (the pump?) and then nothing more.

    I keep you posted about the progress with the New controller.

    Here is a picture of the inside of the valve. All read the workshop instruction before you try this. And also be in a very clean environment. There is about two table spoons of oil that is spills when opened.
    Valve roof.jpg
    Last edited by AuAudiA4; 21st January 2014 at 09:30.

  38. #397
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    A quick update.
    After 2 calls to the wrecker in Sydney to ensure that is was a B version of the controller I got version 1 from 2003.
    No return of the money, because it an electrical part.

    We had a a fair bit of rain and a humidity of 80%, and the roof worked for two days! I thought VagPro sent some spells from the land of Harry Potter.
    VagPro You are the man - Nothing wrong with the current roof controller. Thanks!
    This week I will do new wires from the controller to the pump unit.
    I will keep you posted.

  39. #398
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    A massive thank you for your guide, my roof started playing up. would open fine but failed to close... the cover would lift 2-3 inches and then nothing. I made the mistake of assisting the cover up where it got stuck in the upright position and i could not manually lift the roof out of the folded position. The cover would not budge! I eventually disconnected the battery and the hydraulics just went limp luckily and then manually closed. I opted to buy a reconditioned unit from flea bay for £160 delivered 2 year warranty and refund of £50 for my old unit. I opened my old unit and found a stuck brush and dirty conductor. You've saved me a packet and a beer is awaiting anytime your around and if anyone in the north east needs help giz a shout.


    roof motor brush stuck.jpgdirty contacts.jpg
    Last edited by Babasanalex; 26th January 2014 at 19:29.
    VagPro likes this.

  40. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by AuAudiA4 View Post
    A quick update.
    After 2 calls to the wrecker in Sydney to ensure that is was a B version of the controller I got version 1 from 2003.
    No return of the money, because it an electrical part.

    We had a a fair bit of rain and a humidity of 80%, and the roof worked for two days! I thought VagPro sent some spells from the land of Harry Potter.
    VagPro You are the man - Nothing wrong with the current roof controller. Thanks!
    This week I will do new wires from the controller to the pump unit.
    I will keep you posted.
    Hey Buddy !

    Sorry seems though I missed your second last post, busy times here !

    So just to confirm my understanding,

    You swapped the valves over and the same fault code still came back, (eliminating faulty valves?)

    They sent you the wrong module

    Then the roof magically started working again (well due to the weather?)

    So why are you running new wires ?

    Thanks but either I am being completely stupid or am missing something.

    In either case I am glad you got it sorted !

    Regards
    Khurrum

  41. #400
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    Quote Originally Posted by VagPro View Post
    Hey Buddy !

    Sorry seems though I missed your second last post, busy times here !

    So just to confirm my understanding,

    You swapped the valves over and the same fault code still came back, (eliminating faulty valves?)

    They sent you the wrong module

    Then the roof magically started working again (well due to the weather?)

    So why are you running new wires ?

    Thanks but either I am being completely stupid or am missing something.

    In either case I am glad you got it sorted !

    Regards
    Khurrum
    Hi Khurrum,
    No yet sorted.

    They sent be the wrong module(2003). I sent it back and requested them to give me a version B.

    My wife requested me to put the car together for some driving. ( we have 3 other cars to choose from, but the Audi is the favourite)
    I assembly everything and the next morning I tested the roof. I forgot to lower the storage box. Got the msg "Lower the storage box".
    Lowered the box and tried again and got msg "Cannot be used". Used the manual key to unlock the front and locked it again. Tried again and the roof worked. Opened and close a number of times, perfect! Happy as Larry. Worked two days and tried to close it and it did not release the back lid.
    I haven't had a change to check the fault codes. Will do that tomorrow.
    My conclusion;
    1. Wet weather may indicate bad connections.
    2. Roof worked - Nothing wrong with the controller.
    3. Re-wire as close to the controller and the valves as possible to prof the point of wire that is broken.

    Cheers
    from Aussi

 

 

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