Audi A4 B7 2.0 TDI PROBLEMS PROBLEMS PROBLEMS.... HELP!!!!

raffhussain

raffhussain

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Hi ppl


i own a 2005 audi A4 B7 2.0TDI. 100k The cars been runinng fine up until the last few months were ive had one problem after
the other and im beginning to lose hope with it:sorry: the car has always been serviced at audi. on my last service audi said that there was vibration on idle and they suspect it was the flywheel so got it changed. problem still there. spent a load of cash for nothing. i know ppl say that there is some vibration in the engine but this amount is not normal. also the car shudders in low revs in most gears, but only does it sometimes and not all the times. feels like the car is misfiring. alot of ppl say the egr may cause this but not had a chance to look at this. had the car VAG and no codes.

3rd problem, black smoke when hard accelerating. not the normal diesel smoke but heavy black smoke.

4th problem, heaters have stopped blowing warm air out. the car temp rises but the air is luke warm.

5th problem, your all thinking i should have scrapped the piece of crap by now.lol. anyways the car makes a knocking sound from the engine when the heaters are off but when they on theres no sound. i suspect this may be the compressor or sumat. but dont realy know. the car doesnt feel like it was when I 1st got it. I need to get the car on a VAG machine and see if there is any fault codes for the above and will post as soon as ive got it done. any help would be realy helpful. i dont want to take if to stealers. they ripped me off already and if anyone has experianced these please tell me.:crying:

Thanks
 
Last edited:
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I had EXACTLY all your problems.

I would be 90% certain problems 1 to 3 are caused by the EGR valve, i paid for this to be cleaned and it still smoked like yours and had a bit of shudder on acceleration.
I took a look at it myself and found a small bit of carbon had flicked the metal ring seal on the little flap of the egr off so it could not close properly, Also the throttle body was full of carbon as well.I cleaned these both and there is not one bit of smoke anymore and the shudder has gone.

If it wasnt that i would bet on boost leak but as i say im 90% certain you will find its the egr causing the problem.

I also had vibration on idle and a rattling noise which was worse on clutch bite, told it was the flywheel, It wasnt.
It was the compressor for the aircon.
Best way to test is to take the belt off and start it and see if the noise go's and the vibration go's as well

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for the reply.
I will have to have a look at the egr. Where is it located? Sorry bit of a noob wen it comes to this sort of stuff. Any pics?
 
I will post some pics up for you raff, it took me 1 hour and i suck at that sort of thing.
 
Hi Guys,

I have had the same issues for ages on my 2.0Tdi and after several attempts at the garage, they have not come up with any solutions. I would like to do it myself but again, I am a total noob. pics and tuts are more than welcome. I thinking the EGR valve is dirty and throttle as well... but have no idea where they are and how to reach them to clean them.

How much did the AC compressor cost Low Fuel?

Cheers !
 
Low Fuel said:
I will post some pics up for you raff, it took me 1 hour and i suck at that sort of thing.
Click to expand...

Thanks low fuel. I will wait for the pics then will give it a for. I have for the time being put some forte diesel treatment in I will see how that goes. It's ment to good stuff.
 
Ok first you are going to need the gaskets to replace the old ones with:
EGR gasket : ETKA PART NO: 03G 131 547 F
EGR cooler pipe gasket: ETKA PART NO: 069 131 547 D

They cost £ 6.00 and your local vw/audi parts dept will have them.

When you have those you can start taking it apart,
I have numbered the picture from 1 to 4 you take them off in that order.

1) Undo the bolt and push the pipe away from the EGR valve and Anti shudder valve so you have better access

2) Undo the 2 bolts on the EGR cooler pipe

3) Unclip the hose going to the Anti shudder valve, Then undo the three bolts on the Anti shudder valve and leave it resting on bottom of engine ( If blocked unclip the electrical connector and remove to clean )

4) Undo the 3 bolts holding the EGR valve to the manifold and unclip electrical connector, Remove and undo the screws that hold the black plastic housing to the EGR and prise off with a screwdriver.

You can now move the little flap of the EGR by turning the plastic cog mechanism, Use carb cleaner to remove carbon and make sure the metal ring around the little flap is in place properly and that the flap can close all the way.

IF THE FLAP IS BROKEN OFF OR THE SHAFT THAT HOLD THE FLAP LOOKS DODGY DO NOT PUT IT BACK ON THE CAR, BUY A NEW EGR VALVE.

This is because if the flap snaps off it will go into your engine and you can kiss goodbye to it.
I hope ive explained it all clearly and hope you get yours sorted.

lunapic_131671390780050_13.jpg
 
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A4NA18 said:
Hi Guys,

I have had the same issues for ages on my 2.0Tdi and after several attempts at the garage, they have not come up with any solutions. I would like to do it myself but again, I am a total noob. pics and tuts are more than welcome. I thinking the EGR valve is dirty and throttle as well... but have no idea where they are and how to reach them to clean them.

How much did the AC compressor cost Low Fuel?

Cheers !
Click to expand...

Compressor was £280 ( Recon ) delivered from Remanufactured Automotive Compressors Air Con | Repaired, Reconditioned, Remanufactured works fine.
 
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Low Fuel said:
Ok first you are going to need the gaskets to replace the old ones with:
EGR gasket : ETKA PART NO: 03G 131 547 F
EGR cooler pipe gasket: ETKA PART NO: 069 131 547 D

They cost £ 6.00 and your local vw/audi parts dept will have them.

When you have those you can start taking it apart,
I have numbered the picture from 1 to 4 you take them off in that order.

1) Undo the bolt and push the pipe away from the EGR valve and Anti shudder valve so you have better access

2) Undo the 2 bolts on the EGR cooler pipe

3) Unclip the hose going to the Anti shudder valve, Then undo the three bolts on the Anti shudder valve and leave it resting on bottom of engine ( If blocked unclip the electrical connector and remove to clean )

4) Undo the 3 bolts holding the EGR valve to the manifold and unclip electrical connector, Remove and undo the screws that hold the black plastic housing to the EGR and prise off with a screwdriver.

You can now move the little flap of the EGR by turning the plastic cog mechanism, Use carb cleaner to remove carbon and make sure the metal ring around the little flap is in place properly and that the flap can close all the way.

IF THE FLAP IS BROKEN OFF OR THE SHAFT THAT HOLD THE FLAP LOOKS DODGY DO NOT PUT IT BACK ON THE CAR, BUY A NEW EGR VALVE.

This is because if the flap snaps off it will go into your engine and you can kiss goodbye to it.
I hope ive explained it all clearly and hope you get yours sorted.

lunapic_131671390780050_13.jpg
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info again

I'm gna give this a go hopefully this weekend n will keep u updated.

Thanks again
 
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jesus, can you all just come to my house? i look at these vw/audi throttle vave egr faults every day at work. if i had the capital to open my own garage i would, i'm sick of earning £9.82 an hour when i could run a garage.............

so easy to strip and inspect.

im a tech/mot tester, i work at an indy in the center in sheffield, i live in shiregreen s5 pm me.....
 
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Murran, I might take up on this offer. I need to source the gasket first tho.
 
Murran, I might take up on this offer. I need to source the gasket first tho.
 
Raffa,

Just for information, I have exactly the same issue with the car on idle. Luckily my car is under warranty and has been going back and forth to Audi. So far they have replaced: Oil Pump, fuel pump, tandem pump, injectors, injector loom, cambelt and the problem still persists. It is going back in 2moro for five days, they have not said what they are going to do this time, but as soon as I know I will reply on here, I hope this helps NOT to replace any of the stuff I have had done as it does not fix the problem and would just be a waste of money. Pretty sure they will now be going down the route of some of the suggestions you have already had in replies; egr etc.
 
have they checked compressions/cylinder leakage?

why have they changed the intank fuel pump and the tamdem pump? they have the tools to check fuel pressures within the fuel rail 12-16 bar.... and the pressure from the intank pump should be just 6-10 psi.
these were obviously not faulty if the fault persists.

if its like the ones ive looked at recently there wont be any fault codes.
 
audi upgrades
A4NA18, no fault codes that they told me about. My car is being fixed under warranty so no complaints, the more they change the better, but they initially diagnosed a faulty tandem pump allowing oil into the fuel system, hence why they also drained the system. The cambelt was done as part of the purchase deal so was replaced before i knew this problem exists. Like I say, its back in again 2moro for 5 days so if the problem is cured then I will be able to say what they did to it. Hopefuly help the people that dont have the luck of getting all this stuff done under warranty.

Cheers
 
D8UGF said:
Raffa,

Just for information, I have exactly the same issue with the car on idle. Luckily my car is under warranty and has been going back and forth to Audi. So far they have replaced: Oil Pump, fuel pump, tandem pump, injectors, injector loom, cambelt and the problem still persists. It is going back in 2moro for five days, they have not said what they are going to do this time, but as soon as I know I will reply on here, I hope this helps NOT to replace any of the stuff I have had done as it does not fix the problem and would just be a waste of money. Pretty sure they will now be going down the route of some of the suggestions you have already had in replies; egr etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that. I will keep that in mind. Please do keep me updated.
 
Got mine done yesterday and it was in effect the o-ring around the EGR valve which was dislocated, not enabling to shut completely.
After few rounds of the block, I waited until the engine temp gets warm and blasted until 4500 rpm. LOADS of black smoke then but so much more responsive and less flat spot. The take off from static is better.

I still have a limp situation in the turbo. Not so bad but I can hardly go above 85 mph on my 2.0 Tdi....

Will have to look into it.

But Low Fuel, thanks for your kind explanation with pictures !!! You wouldn't have a way to squirt Mr. Muscle on a 2.0 TDI as I am struggling. Tried yesterday but I think I just managed to squirt in the exhaust manifold....
 
Regards the heating problem.
I had the same problem last winter. Had it in the garage for a couple of days where my mechanic starting working from the cheap stuff to the expensive stuff. Firstly checked the flaps under the dash, if the teeth snap then the flap won't open to direct the hot air through. Checked the two heating/cooling pipes going from the engine into the heater matrix, one should be hot, both of mine where cold, so he checked for blockages etc and changed the water pump (suggested by an audi tech he knew). None of this worked for mine so i ended up having the heater matrix replaced in the end.
I'm not a mechinic but hope this helps.
 
DJM1982 said:
Regards the heating problem.
I had the same problem last winter. Had it in the garage for a couple of days where my mechanic starting working from the cheap stuff to the expensive stuff. Firstly checked the flaps under the dash, if the teeth snap then the flap won't open to direct the hot air through. Checked the two heating/cooling pipes going from the engine into the heater matrix, one should be hot, both of mine where cold, so he checked for blockages etc and changed the water pump (suggested by an audi tech he knew). None of this worked for mine so i ended up having the heater matrix replaced in the end.
I'm not a mechinic but hope this helps.
Click to expand...

hi thanks for the reply. im going to try and flush the heater core and see if that helps. what did it cost to replace the heater matrix?
 
depends on where you take it, i took it back to audi because i needed a courtesy car and it cost just over £700 if i remember rightly.
but if i could have done without the courtesy car and could have taken more time off work then i could have had it done by my mechanic for about £450 (thats what he estimated). But when it was -12 outside and all i has was a 12v fan heater in the footwell to keep me warm, it was kinda money well spent.
 
Hi ppl

quick update on the heating. sorry not given update earlier been a lil busy. After a long fight with the pipes which connect to the heater core i finally flushed the heater core. What a differnce it made. i took the car for a drive to get the temp up and turned on the heating and boom. we had heat. hot hot heat. i recommend to anyone who is having problems with the heaters to do this 1st. all you need is some water and flush both ways untill you see clear water. :o.k:
 
raffhussain said:
Hi ppl

quick update on the heating. sorry not given update earlier been a lil busy. After a long fight with the pipes which connect to the heater core i finally flushed the heater core. What a differnce it made. i took the car for a drive to get the temp up and turned on the heating and boom. we had heat. hot hot heat. i recommend to anyone who is having problems with the heaters to do this 1st. all you need is some water and flush both ways untill you see clear water. :o.k:
Click to expand...
ou explain

hi

can you explain in more detail how you carried out the 'flush'?

send me a pm if you prefer

thanks
 
If you care to explain how to carry out a flush then please do so within this thread rather than by PM. Many a times i have had a problem or query and threads like this have helped me. Be it on this forum or a forum i'm not part off. It would help when people use the search button and then find threads like this! Thanks.
 
Ok ppl Heater core FLUSH

I should have taken some pics but sorry ppl and i will try and explain.

To flush the heater core you firstly need to locate the heater core pipes. They should be on the B7 TDI located on the left hand side of the battery. You Should see 2 pipes one above the other. the top is the outlet pipe and the bottom is the inlet pipe. The top pipe is easy to remove but for the bottom pipe you will need to remove the battery to have more access. To remove the battery there is clamp on the lower front of the battery which has one trox bolt. i dont remember the size. you will need an extension to remove this. once the battery is out you will have more access to the inlet pipe. there are 2 ways this can be done. either go to the local hardware store and buy some 7" tubing which is long enough to reach to a bucket, maybe couple of meters or you can just stick a hose pipe in each side of the heater core pipe and flush till you see clear water. This is not recommended as you need to dipose the G12 mixture correctly as it is dangrous stuff.

Tubing method. Cut a small part of the tubing off, 30cm or so. put the small lenght tube over the outlet pipe and the longer tube of the inlet pipe and down to a bucket which can collect all the gunk. now to flush the core with a hose. dont use to much pressure as the heater core is mission to replace so you dont want to damage this. I used a normal garden hose which was fine. Flush from the oulet and see all the gunk come out into the bucket. Reverse the hose and forward flush, making sure the water coming out is clear. this might also be a good time to drain and flush the whole system but you dont have to. Reverse the removal steps to get things back together and fill up with either some distilled water or G12.

YOU SHOULD HAVE HEAT.....:yahoo:

Hope this helps
 
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hello again

thanks alot for to 'how to' guide! just out of interest were both your heater matrix pipes hot/cold or 1 of each before you carried out the flush? also how long does it take for your lower rad hose to get warm?

had a new metal w/pump 4 month ago, i suspect i have a airlock, both my matrix pipes get hot but i will carry out flush cos my heaters take ages to get warm so maybe partially blocked?
cheers
 
polo10v said:
hello again

thanks alot for to 'how to' guide! just out of interest were both your heater matrix pipes hot/cold or 1 of each before you carried out the flush? also how long does it take for your lower rad hose to get warm?

had a new metal w/pump 4 month ago, i suspect i have a airlock, both my matrix pipes get hot but i will carry out flush cos my heaters take ages to get warm so maybe partially blocked?
cheers
Click to expand...

Hi. Do you mean the pipes for the heater core? The inlet and outlet pipes should be both hot. Mine were both hot but was still getting no warm heat. It doesn't take long at all. The problem I had was that the inlet pipe was a mission getting off. I'm a noob and I did with no problems. I'd try this before spending any money. You got nothing to lose. It took some time after I flushed it for the rad pipes to get hot but afther a good trashing it was all good. I you have air lock try n flush the whole system and then fill it up and start with heaters on full with the coolant bottle cap off.
 
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I know I'm resurrecting a bit of a dead thread but I finally got round to cleaning my EGR valve today just for curiousity. Completed the dismantling, cleaning and putting back together in an hour on the dot. Only a small amount of crud in the valve but cleaned it with Wynn's Fuel Injection & Carb cleaner. Can notice a slight improvement between 40-60 and no black smoke shoots out the back. Top thread, cheers!
 
I have the same problems, juddering on idle, black smoke etc i know i have issues with air con pump as it ticks badly when air con not in use, could this be the cause of the juddering ?
My EGR was replaced approx 1yr ago just before i bought the car - how soon do they get clogged up/dirty ? is it worth checking ???

Any help much appreaciated as i thought the juddering was the DMF ? (hopefully not !)
 
Hi Raff, my anmes Usman i have the same problem with my heaters blowing out cold air, but it only seems to affect the drivers side, the passenger side is ok, but as it has been really cold over the past month or two, it has put me off driving the car!, please can you call me (07921871500) or private message me as i live in Bury gerater manchester and i want to you to help me as my heaters have really put me off from my car and i think whith what you did on yours should fix my problem too, many thanks in advance
 
bujo said:
Hi Raff, my anmes Usman i have the same problem with my heaters blowing out cold air, but it only seems to affect the drivers side, the passenger side is ok, but as it has been really cold over the past month or two, it has put me off driving the car!, please can you call me (07921871500) or private message me as i live in Bury gerater manchester and i want to you to help me as my heaters have really put me off from my car and i think whith what you did on yours should fix my problem too, many thanks in advance
Click to expand...

Hi usman

it could be that the heater core is clogged up with gunk and thats stopping the heat getting to the drivers side or i could be the flaps on the driver side are not opening which could mean you need new moterised flaps. but a flush could solve the probelm. if you dont know how to do it bring the car down to bradford on sunday and i will flush the heater core for you and see if that helps.

thanks

Raff
 
iv just done this to my car. cleaned out the egr valve, was seized solid shut with burnt oil, all carbonned up like nothing iv ever seen,

doesnt seem to have done much thats noticeably different? i still get plumes of white smoke, which would suggest coolant but its not using any, not that i can tell anyway, and i still get the rough idle type misfire problem?. completly stumped.
 
chrisk1700 said:
iv just done this to my car. cleaned out the egr valve, was seized solid shut with burnt oil, all carbonned up like nothing iv ever seen,

doesnt seem to have done much thats noticeably different? i still get plumes of white smoke, which would suggest coolant but its not using any, not that i can tell anyway, and i still get the rough idle type misfire problem?. completly stumped.
Click to expand...

hey chrisk1700, it could be something else other than the EGR, i cleaned mine and it did made a difference, i can actually hear the turbo spooling and the car has a much better trottle response. Im still looking into the rough idle. cleaning the EGR didnt help that. Ive had my DMF changed to and didnt make much difference. Dont know what else it could be
 
could be, how would i check this? ignition on and get someone to press the go baby go pedal and try to feel/ listen if its operating?
 
Not sure. When you cleaned it, did you test the mechanism? Wonder if you could just put a blanking plate over it, attach it and see if it's any better although you will get a warning light when you do this.

Another thought, if the EGR was that clogged up I wonder if there is carbon elsewhere.
 
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