which does it relate to?
which does it relate to?
Read the sticky.
Its engine code "BLB" and i think it was 2005/2006.
This is a 140ps engine
where can you see engine code, chassis number?
is all 2005/06 cars of specific dates going to be BLB engine code or random?
hmm, You should see it on your logbook i think.
Also the sticker in your boot floor.
Also the sticker in your service schedule.
Should be fairly obvious if you see "BLB"
Dont think all 05/06 140ps A4 are BLB but im not sure i havent followed it too closely.
What is "gear teeth or the hex shaft failure"?
I thought these issues were only on 140ps between 05/06
I have a 57 plate BRD 170ps - is it something to worry about?
Worry no no lets not start a mass forum panic.The teeth wear is easily fixed by replacing the oil pump gear
The hex key is basically the drive cam from the pulley to the pump and the edges wear and therefore the pump loses drive.
You will notice the red oil pressure light will come on and you must stop the engine to prevent turbo damage
Check your vehicle history to see if
Workshop campaign 13D7 has been carried out or your vehicle production build fell into the repair criterion
in this campaign the pulley and pump are checked and replaced accordingly, if the chain is fitted then its converted to gear drive if I recall
The BLB's are more prone to failure, 2.0TDI's in cars from 2005-2006 tend to be BLB. They use a chain with a piece of plastic to provide tension to the oil pump drive, this plastic wears out and, ultimately, you need a new engine.
I am aware of failures on the gear driven cars but it is not as common as the BLB fault. I realise that sticky is long but it's well worth reading as we are duplicating threads here.
Red Audi A4 B7 S-Line with Leather/Alcantara interior
Current Mods: Painted Brake Calipers, Gear-driven oil shaft assembly, RS4 grille, Debadged, B8 MFSW, Cruise Control, RS4-style Fog Surrounds, Satin Black Cupra R Splitter, RS4 RARB, Clear Corner headlights, 2011 RNS-e, MTEC Drilled and Grooved Brake Discs.
But there is no specific engine code data to tell you which drive gear type is fitted.Depending on available base short motors the production line fitted what was available, hence the sump removal is a good option for worried owners and conversion is recommended once the sump is off as its not so bad a job to under take.I understand the cost element but if you buy 2nd or 3rd hand and wish for a peaceful life then its worth it.
However if you have purchased the 170 I would worry more about the injectors.
Hence I own the B6 avf 1.9 pd unit which is bullet proof
I also own bkd in the vw golf but there less prone to faults in the vw platform for some reason and 60k faultless miles, however I do have a spare head in case lol
yeah bkd engines, you just have to buy fans and throttle bodys when they pack up and blow engine management fuses. then worry about egr coolers leaking coolant into the egr system. oil coolers leaking coolant into the oil. and cracked heads hydaulicing engines on start up.
much better engines......
just buy a 1.9 that not been on longlife service plans.......... you'll sleep better
I have a Feb 07 BRD 2.0 TDI with hex shaft/oil pump issues. 118k full Audi service history, it's wanted for nothing.
To be honest the checks to do to satisfy yourself are:-
Look out your window if your car is of the Audi variety then quickly decide what new car you would like and start looking.
I'm afraid perceived quality just doesn't cut it for me.
no, in my experience, id really not go near a bkd personally.
Almost every manufacturer will have horror stories of some sort online. You'll not find pages of pages of "How awesome my car is and how nothing has broken". First thing folk do these days if they have bad news is jump on the interweb and tell as many people as possible.
Enjoy the car and cross your fingers - its what I'm doing