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Thread: A3 to A6, advice needed.

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    A3 to A6, advice needed.

    Hi. As it says in the title, i currently have an A3 2.0 Tdi 2004, but due to a new addition to the family need domething bigger. Been looking at A6's, most have been the 2.0tdi, what are peoples thoughts on thid engine in a car this size, does it shift ok? Is there anything i need to look out for? Been looking at 2006ish models, and probably will go for an s-line.
    Thanks

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  3. #2
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    you'll need a remap to make it feel brisk, make sure it has parking sensors front and rear
    VCDS in North Wales
    2007 A6 3.0TDi S-Line Le Mans Avant , adaptive xenon lights, sunroof, privacy glass, towbar, led rears & randomly rear seat airbags
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    2001 Passat TDi 130 Sport < sold!! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v343/Ste_Nova/Passat/PB140007s.jpg

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    Thanks for the quick reply Ste. It doesnt have to be the 2.0l engine, im open to suggestions, but preferably would like diesel. Do they do a 170hp version like they do in the a3? Is this any good if they do?

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    Ive been to look at a few s-lines this week, was just wondering what people thought was a reasonalbe mileage for a 2005 or 2006 model? Ive seen a 55 plate 170bhp one, and really like it, it didnt have the mileage online but when i went to see it it was 202,000miles, its had all its services with audi and got all the stamps, had the timing belt done twice and has been used as a company car so mainly motorway miles, what do people think of a car with this much miles? normally i wouldnt look twice but they all seam to be over 100k at this age.

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    I had a Skoda Superb 1.9 tdi when i was doing a huge commute every day and it went to 275 000 miles and the only bother i had with it was a broken front coil spring, and a boost control valve and 3 brake calipers so if its been looked after i dont see why not to buy it, but i ran mine into the ground looks wise as it was stone chipped and wheels kerbed but it never let me down and i only sold it because i moved much closer to my work, it depends on what you want from it, if its your pride and joy then id be more patient and get a lower mile minter if its just an everyday use park where you want etc car id take a punt on it if its tidy and has had all its services done, remember most of its day its up to temp and cruising on the motorway, reps dont hammer them at silly speeds or theyd lose their licence and then their job so they are generally well looked after and make great used buys.
    My cars:

    2013 BMW 535d M-Sport Alpine White
    2004 Lancer Evolution 8MR FQ-340 Palma Red

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    I think early 2.0 TDi in A6 is PD engine... 140 BHP....

    The facelift one (09-11) I think have the CR engine... 136 BHP to 170 BHP...

    Ref the 4F section on wiki here... Link:- Audi A6 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

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    A 2.0 Tdi engine in the A6 is never going to shift a car of that weight with any great speed, you need the 2.7 or 3.0 to get real performance and not have to rag the engine to get anywhere, it's the same as the 3.0TDi in the Q7 it's just rubbish compared to the 4.2TDi.
    Tuddie likes this.

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    Im going to see a 2006 2.7tdi this week with 126k on the clock and full service history. Is there anything i i should be looking out for? Am i right in thinking that it has timing chain rather than belt and this doesnt need to be changed?

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    Yeah, the V6 diesels have timing chains, so that is one less service item.

    What gearbox does this example have? Is is FWD or quattro? If its a FWD auto, I'd probably steer clear, as multitronics (i.e. continuously variable transmission) are plagued with problems and are expensive to fix, so I would avoid one if possible... especially on the torquey V6. I have a quattro tiptronic behind the 3.0 TDI, and it is pretty bulletproof. Manual box is probably fine as well.

    Something to have a look for under the bonnet... if you yank the engine cover off (just pull upwards firmly, you can't break anything), look for play in the linkages on the intake flap motors. A common fault for these engines is that the ends of the links wear out, and the ECU has a tantrum when there is more than a bee's whisker of play in them. Not the end of the world, but worth knowing about so you can knock the price down a few hundred quid if they feel like they might need doing See here for a visual and further info about the problem and the solution(s) Audi V6 TDi 2.7 & 3.0 Inlet Manifold, Swirl Flap Repair Kit.

    Lastly, I have also been bitten by the pipe running to the rear window washer splitting and leaking all over the stack of electronics (sat-nav DVD drive, amplifier, etc) in the passenger side of the boot. Give the rear washer a good long spray, and then pop the cover off that compartment and have a really good look for damp (and also old water stains that might indicate it has been wet in the past). I believe it can also split/leak in the front passenger foot-well and trash parts of the MMI system such as phone and bluetooth modules, etc, so check for any dampness in the carpets there too.

    I think that covers the major things... hope you find a nice example. I love my A6 avant, and am really pleased I decided to suck it up and shell out for a nicely loaded Le Mans 3.0 ... if you're gonna do it, do it properly!

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    gupsterg's Avatar
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    I really wouldn't buy a 2006 A6 2.7 or 3.0 TDi...

    If your budget stretch I'd go for a 07/57 if I was buying again...

    The injectors are another thing which on the early ones are poor... I did mine at home £1.3k... you could be looking at £2-3K depending upon where you go...

    The timing chain tensioner is also a problem until after 07/57... I had to get mine done was a £2k fix...

    The early ones also have a poorer tiptronic oil and was improved later... this also requires a software update to gearbox...

    They cars are great to drive... I have an early one .... with very high spec... but very pricey when things go wrong...

    I've spent to date £5.7K ish in past 16mths resolving things and this was with doing a lot of the work myself ...

    Not all early cars are bad BUT better know now than later! ...

    I will link some TSB's which are on the net concerning this or PM an external email and can send you more upto date TSB/TPI PDF's...

    Software within modules is another thing which the later ones have better... these cars are not just about the parts but the software as well!
    Last edited by gupsterg; 23rd January 2013 at 13:31.

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    Get a 2.0 tdi and get a tuning box on it thats what i decided to do in the end.
    My cars:

    2013 BMW 535d M-Sport Alpine White
    2004 Lancer Evolution 8MR FQ-340 Palma Red

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    Quote Originally Posted by gupsterg
    The injectors are another thing which on the early ones are poor
    Ah! I forgot the injectors... yes, I agree, I'd probably avoid pre-2007 examples. (I went for an 07, handily without DPF )

    Quote Originally Posted by Tuddie View Post
    Get a 2.0 tdi and get a tuning box on it thats what i decided to do in the end.
    Its not quite as simple as that... the 2.0 TDIs are hardly a paragon of reliability, so you're just trading one set of known issues for another (e.g. catasrophic balance shaft failures that kill the whole engine, EGR and DPF failures, etc). As far as my research found, the (post 2006) V6 TDIs are quite a solid engine.

    I guess, in the end, its all down being diligent and researching about known/common issues before buying, and a hoping for a bit of luck really!

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    I agree if you have mind set on 2.7/3.0 then a 2.0 even with remap not gonna cut it... but the later 2.0 with CR tech better than PD for driveabilty, response to remap, etc...

    Avoid high mile older cars... you may as well go for high mile newer car... at least software will be new and you just swap bits if need doing...

    Without sounding patronising keep spare £££ for imediate after care...

    There are great used cars out there from great owners then there are the other ones ...

    Test drive a few, the options list is extensive on these MMI basic to high conversion is lots of £££, BOSE, Xenons, etc...

    So think about things like that as well...

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    Thanks for all the replies, some really useful information that i wasnt aware of. In response to the questions, its a FWD and is manual. I have also seen a 2007 but this is the 140 2.0tdi and is automatic, would rather have that little bit extra power, but if the 2007 is more reliable i could live with less power i suppose. Not too sure what im looking at as regards the injectors issue, is this something that you can tell there will be problems with or is it a case of seeing what happens?

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    I went for my 2.0 tdi after my dad ran 4 Skoda Superbs with the CR engine in to well over 200k miles with no engine or any issues really at all, at the end of the day you can get probs with any car its just your Donald Duck.
    My cars:

    2013 BMW 535d M-Sport Alpine White
    2004 Lancer Evolution 8MR FQ-340 Palma Red

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    I have the 2.0TDI PD BRE & IMO is under powered when you have a full car 5 people and their luggage on the other hand if most the time there is only one or two people in it then it pulls well and has enough grunt 2nd 3rd etc etc. I'm a confident driver and will overtake given the opportunity & of course the right conditions. However the 2.0 sometimes just doesn't feel right or give enough confidence.

    Other expenses you should take into consideration especially if you've just got a new addition to the family and presume you mean a child and not a gold fish is the tax a fuel bills & insurance of the 3.0 & 2.7 although not knowing you financial status this may not be an issue. Gups has mentioned the expense of these early engines if something goes wrong & fishy fish stated that the 2.0 has it's own issues both valid points but a fault on the 2.0 is gonna be a lot cheaper than a fault on a bigger engine.

    Also don't forget that on forums most the time people only post about nightmare situations regarding their motor. It's a tough call but do your homework, research and drive the cars properly not just around the block so you get a feel. Push every button twice and try and go for the MMI high aftermarket upgrades for the MMI are expensive
    All the best

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    The guy with the 2.7 cancelled on me as he had a 'major family issue', so not seen any yet. Got a few 2.0tdi's that im considering viewing this weekend. Will have a drive and see what i think of the power, can always remap like it has been suggested. Will update with any progress.

  19. #18
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    I went from 8L A3 to C6 2.0 tdi. Its a world apart of course, but wouldnt want to go back to anything smaller.
    Now I have the option to sell it back to the previous owner for the same price as he moved to Oz. So Im on the lookout for the same spec in estate version.

    We have a 6 month old daughter and having the extra space in the boot is a massive plus.

    Do check for all the mod cons as others have mentioned, parking sensor, updated MMI, leather seats, upgraded sound system etc.
    Whichever tickles your fancy.

    The engine is made even more efficient if you remap it. Good luck in your search.

    R

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    I had my Auto A6 3.0 TDI Quattro remapped (alientech) and have managed over 900 miles on a brimmed tank (albeit 2 x 400 mile trips non-stop at silly-o'clock). I wasn't driving like Miss Daisy either...as my first 6 points will testify to :O(

    Am sure the millers powermax doesn't make THAT much difference...but based on those results I'm too scared not to use it!

  21. #20
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    On the 2.0TDI's, same with any VAG models up to about 2007: check if it's the very early model with the oil pump chain (which can snap) or the earlier models with belt/band, where the wheel is driven by a hex bolt that smooths off and is £500 if you miraculously notice it at the time and £5000-£10000 if you don't... some assistance form Audi if it's got a 100% Audi service history.

    CVT is risky before 2007: the V6 (2.5/2.7) TDI's were recalled across the Audi range, 2.0TDI's (and the petrols) were left ot their own devices and variable support from Audi - which is a shame, 'cos that 'box is really well suited to the engine.

    In terms of speed: it really depends what you want out of the car: I had a 140TDI CVT as a rental in Nov 2007 and though that it was pretty reasonable, but I'm not sure how it would have been with a manual gearbox as the powerband was pretty narrow from what I remember: it didn't feel very good on the paddles, which had set ratios and just exposed the narrow powerband.

    Again on a CVT, but I had a 170PS as a courtesy car a couple of years ago and thought it was very reasonably nippy for a car that big and economical... but felt sluggish when I climbed back into my B6 2.5TDI quattro and floored it through the same stretch of roads...

    Personally I'd always been a little sceptical, but then my dad liked his early 140TDI C6 so much that when I pointed out the risks of the early C6 oil pump an CVT that he replaced it with a 2011 TDI170 C6: both were CVT (fwd) and he raves about how much more economical and faster it is... I'm a bit spoiled in my car now, but I'd say his is not obviously underpowered, but again, I'm not sure what it would be like with the more reliable manual box, so I'd probably err on the side of a CVT with a decent warranty.
    LostBok/BahnStormer77
    A6 (C7) Avant 3.0TFSI, DSG, rain and light sensor pack, LED headlight pack, MMI touch, SDS high, AMI, 360deg sensors + auto-park, Dunlop SP Winter Sports / Pirelli P Zero's.

 

 

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