windscreen wiper probs

[shufti]

hi all

my wipers seem to be on their way out.

sometimes they give a couple of wipes but its all very slow.... usually they just get stuck in the middle at first wipe.

i sprayed wd40 on all the linkages but no change.... does it sound like the motor has had it? how hard is it to change?

thanks

 

[fjtwelve]

Just had same problem, linkage partially seized > overloaded motor so it started to burn out. Over use in Scotland or lack of use down here i don't know but my A80 did 14 years/202000 miles without a smilar failure, the A4 Tdi 12 years/176000 and the Passat 9 years/214000 so I was a bit surprised. All sorted at Truro Audi £337 suits you sir aaargh and I thought it might just be a capacitor failure/ loose wire.They did give me a 170hp 2.0TDI A4 to play with for 2 days while they did it though and 15% discount on the motor and a voucher for 15% off next time I go in.

 

[shufti]

that wd40 seems to have helped as they've got quicker..... very strange!

still not back to full speed though

 

[shufti]

they are back to normal!

anyone with this problem then I can't recommend enough to drench moving parts with wd40. I reckon me doing this as some desperate attempt has potentailly saved my hundreds from burning out the motor.

very pleased!

 

[bebecheekymonkey]

that wd40 seems to have helped as they've got quicker..... very strange!

still not back to full speed though

Its the wiper linkage that is causing the problem. I had the same thing on my A6 Avant a few months back.

Audi Camberley and an independant stated that the joint where it connects to the wiper arm rusts due to a poor design (a common fault on the VAG cars). When it starts to slow, its a sign that the linkage has rusted so bad that it causes the wipers to slow and eventually seize. This loads up the wiper motor and burns the motor out.
Apparently, oiling/greasing the link may help in the short term but the motor is still under load due to the rust still being there.

Both garages advised that a new wiper arm linkage was the only way to fix the problem and save a costly new wiper motor replacement.

A new wiper linkage cost £48.56 from Audi (better designed to stop water ingress to the joint)
Labour was 1 hour (although the garage only took just over half an hour for the job)

 

[bebecheekymonkey]

Here is a link i previously found on how to remove the wiper linkage from an A4 which may help give you an idea on how to do it yourself.

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc44.shtml

However, this link is also showing you how to clean, grease and refit it which is not advisable if it is badly rusted.

However, as previously stated, it would be far safer/easier to replace it than to risking the chance of burning the wiper motor out.

 

[shufti]

thanks

 

[A6FanUK]

Just to add to this thread, I had exactly the same problem on my 2002 A6 1.9TDi. I worked away from home for a few months, so the car was little used for a while. Then when I started using it again, the first time I tried the wipers, they were very sluggish. I noticed that waggling one wiper arm moved the linkage below just a little bit, whilst trying to move the other one had no effect on the linkage, hence it appeared seized in the spindle bearing. I tried WD40 and oil etc, with a little improvement initially, but the problem, soon came back. Eventually the wipers stopped mid position, and I presume the motor has a safety cut out when it gets overloaded.

I stripped the rack out (a mare of a job, with real danger of scratching your bodywork unless you're REALLY careful, and it even required temporarily moving the fuse box!) and stripped it down on the bench. Sure enough, one spindle was seized solid with a black hard corrosion deposit. I could only just turn the spindle with a foot long spanner - it was THAT tight! I'm amazed the wiper moter managed as well as it did for so long!

I cleaned out both bearings, reassembled with grease, and even replaced the two tiny rubber O-ring seals at the top of each spindle (one was split). The seals were a standard size, from B&Q plumbing department! I put it all back together, and it runs great again.

Don't even contemplate this job yourself unless you're very careful and patient. There were times when I wondered how on earth the rack would ever come out of the car!

 

[scottnet]

Hi, I get a very load squeak when using my wipers. I though this may be the bearings in the motor that had rusted but it sounds more like the linkages. Before I strip the linkages can anyone advise if they have ever seen the bearings in the motor rust ? if not it is most probably the linkages ..

 

[should have got a toyota]

Here is a link i previously found on how to remove the wiper linkage from an A4 which may help give you an idea on how to do it yourself.

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc44.shtml

However, this link is also showing you how to clean, grease and refit it which is not advisable if it is badly rusted.

However, as previously stated, it would be far safer/easier to replace it than to risking the chance of burning the wiper motor out.

I have got this problem and found this link very usefull . Good site

 

[darklyte]

Further to the job description in the link...

The box that has to be moved is the ECU - NOT the fusebox. For easier access remove the relay nearest the bulkhead lest you snap it off... Also check the plugs going to the ecu when you reassemble as they can come loose and you'll have to take the whole lot apart again to get at them - 2 on the back of the ECU and 4 at the car end. ECU housing is held on with 2 nuts - one outside by the wing and one inside by the plug "hole".

The wiper unit itself has 2 copper bushes in the 2 shaft housings. Hitting the shafts with a BFH is not recommended - better to hold the end of the actuator arm underneath with a pair of mole grips and supporting the frame with a block of wood, put your foot on the top of the spline (effectively pressing it down) and waggle the shaft back and forth with the mole grips - it will come out eventually and you don't risk smashing up the thread at the top or snapping it off altogether (I had the other end of the frame strapped to my other foot to give me leverage). Use some 1000 sandpaper wrapped around a screwdriver to clean up the bushes and again for the shafts (luckily I've got a polishing wheel on a bench grinder and it brought them up like new). Always remember to replace the rubber washer on top or you will probably be doing it again in about a years time.

BTW, whilst you've got the plastic trim off that goes across the bottom of the windscreen, take the pollen filter out and check it hasn't got water under it. If anyone in the past hasn't fitted that plastic trim correctly or a build up of mud is in the locating channel (I kid you not) water can get into the housing straight from the windscreen and dribble down the air intake shaft and guess what? at least on the A6 the blower fan and MOTOR are directly underneath it. Better safe than sorry...

Have to say we shouldn't be doing this at all. The amount of "common problems" VAG cars are getting... so far my common faults have been faulty door locks (one is still stuck shut in safe mode after a year), Blower motor, the dodgy electric windows, this winny wiper problem and the worst one being the turbo oil sludge "strip off the entire bottom of the car" problem. It has a Full dealer history and I've only had it 18 months. Never will I buy an audi again . Got to the point I trust my MGB GT or landy disco Mk 1 more to go anywhere now. Such a shame but I guess Audi don't care and they certainly don't deserve the extra prices they command for "quality build and components". Sorry about the moan.

 

[owdgit]

Mine too.
Stipped and cleaned linkage and now seems fine.
It was the drivers side spindle that had seized (right hand drive car).
Be careful when knocking the spindle out of its housing as the mounting plate/housing is a soft cast aluminium which will break off fairly easily.

 

[onthedangle]

Most of whats said & images are great help here.One prob Ive had today...how the hell do you get the plastic airflow grille/cowl off to get access to the linkage.I can tell its been removed in the past as the screws & clips are missing but after 2.5hrs of pulling/pushing & swearing it wont budge.Help please guys???

 

[myothertoyhas2wheels]

Kinda wish I'd found this site BEFORE I started this job

I'm a NOVICE in the mechanic ranks. The extent of my mechanics extends only to fitting car stereos, replacing bulbs/fuses, and removing and refitting "trim". Anything under the bonnet is usually a big "no-no" for me - that's what my mate's for

However, last night I managed to remove the wiper linkage. Passenger side seized up.

My initial help came from a Haynes manual (so yes, I did RTFM!) and the following link:
http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2383247

To get the plastic airflow/grill off, there are just 3 metal clasps (left, right n middle). The middle one was the most difficult to budge (due to access), but once off the grill/cowl just pulls out. You may need to use a little force, but it does (or should!) come off fairly easily.

BTW, the Haynes tells you to prize off the splines from the ball joint whilst the linkage is still fitted into the car. Well unless you are a seasoned mechanic, I wouldn't bother with it. I managed to get the entire linkage (plus motor!) out with just a wiggling, sliding motion and some perseverance. I did cut my hands and fingers to shreds in the process, so perhaps a little care should have been thrown in.

At this stage, my linkage is still removed from the car and is now sheared at one end thanks to me taking the BFH approach to the seized spindle. I had tried WD40 and a 3-in-1 penetrative loosening spray, and I even soaked it in paraffin overnight and tried again with the 3-in-1 and WD40 this morning. Nothing seemed to shift it. It was completely seized up! On the plus-side, I tested my wiper motor with no linkage attached and it still works

Thought I'd just add my few pointers/tips (bear in mind, RH-drive):

Driver side bolt holding the linkage in place was probably one of the more difficult bolts to undo due to restricted access. Too short and the ratchet hits the windscreen, too long an extender and it hits the bonnet. Probably a lot easier if you have a snaked/flexible extender. I just used patience

The wiper motor is held on by 3 screws. These are MUCH easier to undo after you unbolt the linkage from the bodywork, and then tilt the whole assembly towards you (or towards the front of the car).

There is (or was, in my case!) a rubber washer/grommet on the top of the motor spindle, which I managed to lose when removing the bracket that holds the motor to the linkage, so beware.

Right, I just need to find a spare wiper linkage from somewhere now :/ and then I have the absolute AR$E of a job of re-fitting it all. I may just give my mate a call ;-)

Pete

 

[Alski2009]

I've had my 2002 allroad (AKE) 2.5 V6 TDi for 2 months now (Full Audi SH) and with your help i've had my Alpine IVA-D310, NVE-099 and amp installed, replaced my broken driver's side electric mirror, replaced a broken puddle light, bought a Spider Tuning module to get rid of that flatspot below 1800rpm (haven't fitted it yet as i'm waiting to get the +ve feed off the accelerator pedal and replace my brake light switch at the same time), fixed my insane indicators which would go crazy (hazard switch)... deep breath... AND, i have just replaced the wiper linkage. Typical Audi-esque slow-slow wipers and the occassional stuck-in-the-up-position.

Mine's a Right Hand drive (UK) and the RHS wiper spigot had seized in the alluminium housing. It took me ages to get the wiper assembly out. I had to pull the ECU lid off and moved the housing out a bit, kicked the wiper motor round and stall it in various positions, removed the 1x 13mm nut from the cranked wiper drive and the 3x 10mm bolts that hold the wiper linkage to the motor. I nearly gave up, and then rotated the linkage part forward and up and pushed the wiper motor back and pulled out the drivers side first and out it came. I couldn't get anything in to separate the balljoints as recommended on other sites. Which made the whole operation more difficult. So if i had to do it again, i'd split the linkage balljoints and take it out in pieces.

AND, i had a 1998 B5 Passat before so knew my way around the engine bay, but i was expecting to see the little plastic covers that direct rain water into the scuttle shelf and along into the drainage channels. And prevent water dripping down the wiper spigots and corroding the steel shafts in the ally housings. So i'm going to pop round VW and get 2x of those plastic covers. Seems odd Audi didn't use them and perhaps why so many wiper linkages are failing. Then again it may have just been my car.

What do i need to do now? I'd forgotten to clip the bundle of wires (think they are for the heated washer jets) onto the back of the ECU housing. I hope they don't get tangled up in the wiper linkage. BUT i did put some red Teflon grease in the balljoints which should keep everything lubed up.

It looks like it's going to rain now. Which is a shame as i'd fancied having a go at fixing the headlamp washer white nylon 3-way T-piece/Union/Junction in the front bumper. It's a well engineered part with strengthening ribs and gussets all over. How was it broken?

Apologies for the length of this post. Thank you all so much for posting everything you have. It's access to information like this that helps so many people. My next job is upgrading my 'warped-discs' for better cross-drilled and vented discs at each corner. Fit my tuning box. AND, if i can be *****, try and fit the 7/8-hole injectors from the US and some other goodies to improve the drive-a-bility, etc. I think FJTwelve (sp?) has already embarked on this journey into improving the VAG 2.5 V6 TDi engine.

Many thanks again. Alski.

 

[trumpetboy11]

Quietly trying to keep my 2001 Allroad 'on the road' and experiencing all of the usual faults found here on the forum. I did manage to get it through a MoT last week but it failed on slow windscreen wipers. Took the wiper mechanisim out (no need to remove ECU box, just the lid and the relays) and found the driver side bush siezed solid. Managed to push this out with the ball joint splitter, good clean up with some fine emery paper and packed full of LM grease. There is a bit of play in the bushes but the car has done 170K miles! Was worried about water ingress again into the bush (poor design fault I'm afraid), so thought I'd share my solution. Two bottle tops of litre fizzy pop bottles were drilled just slightly smaller than the splined shafts and push fitted over the shaft for extra water protection. The passenger side bottle top has to be cut down a little as the shaft is shorter, but for a free modification I think these will do the trick and hopefully avoid a rebuild in the near future! Pictures available if you want to see closer.