Audi A6 2.5 TDi AKE one cylinder misfire (video + image)

veghard

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Hello

My car suddenly stopped running on all cylinders - thats my hypothesis anyway. The car is from 2000 and has driven 338,000km (210,023 miles) and had power to it before this.

I have tested the following
- Checked VAG-COM (no errors)
- Checked timing belt and timing
- Checked injector pump and its timing
- Checked fuel pump
- Various hoses
- Checked camshafts

Considering the camshafts, I clearly see that they have grinded about 0.5mm. Is that sufficient to make this happen this suddenly? can it be the injectors? does injectors on these cars fail suddenly?

I'm at the point where I do not know what to check next or whats causing this. Suggestions? please see the media below and let me know what you think.

Idle video
1900 RPM video (I think this tell most)
Image #1
Image #2
Image #3
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Image #8
 
I'm currently checking the oil pan for clues. When unscrewing the magnetic plug i came across this piece!

How can it have jumped? is it safe to put it back or will it just loosen again? do I need to replace all parts including camshafts and rocker arms?
 
D'oh. Can't believe I missed that. Where should I expect to find the rocker arm and can it have made any damage to my engine?

Whats recommended procedure for this old car? only buy a new rocker arm or full package?
 
Full package, rockers, lifters and cams... It will be a new car again...
 
Ok, thank you very much for replies guyes. Do I need any special tools beside what I used when changing timing belt?

Best regards
 
Nope, just 2 new cam oil seals and some good oil resistant silicone sealant- i use genuine stuff from VAG group... I assume you used proper locking tools, yes ?
 
Yes, bolt in engine and two flat pieces on the back of the cams.
 
Sorry to bother you again guyes, but I did something stupid. I removed the camshafts without checking how the actual internal bulge were.. I did however check exactly how the flat spots on the back of the cams were and thought this were enough, but when inserting them I became a little uncertain.

Do the following pictures look right?
bulges
long cam
short cam

I did the left side afterwards and know I know at least that one is perfect.
 
If you pop the cover at the back of the long cam, there is a slot that also needs to be parallel with the flat edge of the head. Please bear in mind that cams do move when lifters take up the slack so i would re-check the alignment of the cams once the engine has started and if you hear slight tappety noises on over-run....
 
Yes, the "long cam" picture should have shown this, but I linked the wrong image. Sorry about that. correct image

What I'm really asking is if its possible to have the cams turn 180 degrees such that the slot is still level, but the cam position would be wrong, right?

And a final question before start. Should I somehow make the glow plugs glow longer during start to get the engine quicker up and running?