A6 c5 2.5 tdi cv boots split

Keggers

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Hi, so my cars in for it's mot in 2 weeks so I thought I'd take a look at the motor for anything obvious, I've noticed both the front cv boots are well ready for replacement! Can anyone advise how big the job is to do or what I should expect to pay if I took it to my local garage?

Also noticed the tray that covers the underside of the car wet with fresh oil and have traced it to the seal on he oil filter, it looks perished but I did have the filter replaced last year, wonder if he never renewed the seal or did he even change the filter!
 
if they are anything like mine, they are actually quite easy compared to most other cars, if i remember, just take center cap of wheel to loosen the hub nut, then jack car up, take wheel off. Then there are 2 allen key bolts holding on a shield above inner boot, take them out and then remove another 6 bolts that hole the shaft to the box, thats it, slide the shaft out, can be done with out removing anything else, is easier though if you remove the 2 top arms on the strut leg, but i didnt... changing boot is easy, if its the outer, then just cut old boot off and then just tap the end of the shaft out of the joint, the new kit should come with a new retaining clip, the inner joint is pretty similar, except it just a bit more time consuming.... if you want the easy option then just buy 2 complete new drive shafts, obviously a bit more expensive.... hope this helps
 
Whatever you do I would by the genuine boots from Audi and have the garage fit them, I got some aftermarket ones and they were shot after 30K the Audi ones lasted over a 100K. All depends on the labour charge but I would say £100-£150 to fit + the cost of the boots.
 
cracked cv boots - mot failure so advise you do replace before the mot. I have changed them myself (I believe I described it on here somewhere, may be 18months-2years ago now). also I think its written up on audiworld "how to do" section.
there are a couple of tricky bits.
1. you have to undo the hub nut - very very tight, the torque setting is 150Nm plus 180 degrees, its ok if you have a breakers bar on your socket set and a large hex bit. you are supposed to not reuse the nuts so need new ones for replacement.

2. the pinch bolts need undoing as you need to free the upper suspension arms. this I found terribly tricky the first time but have done it several times since and have the nack now. its worth taking the pressure off the arms with a jack under the lower arm, that means the bolt comes out easier. then wack something into the gap to help widen it before removing upper arms. again supposed to replace with new bolt after, worth doing as will make it easier next time when your suspension air springs go or suspension arms!

3. the very messy bit. remove old boot. I actually used stretchy boots from Unipart (made by duraboot)with you fit over a cone, once warmed and covered in fairy liquid quite easy. was bit suspicious on how long they would last but are still doing well now. otherwise you have to remove the hub - not sure if you can just bang it off or if you need the special screw like tool from audi (that's why I used strectchy boots).

Oil fiter extreamly easy to fit, no need to drain oil first if it is not due, new filter comes with all the seals so make sure you replace them. good price on eurocar parts.

before I did it myself my local audi independent gave me a few tips and said "rather you than me, I hate doing them its so messy (grease everywhere)". Previous owner had it done at audi, invoice in my paperwork is in the region of £250 labour but that was back in 2008. These stretchy boots are about £5 each so big savings if you do it yourself.