Slamming b5 avant. Any problems?

spankius

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Are there any problems to be aware of if you are going to slam an a4 b5 avant on coilovers?

Are they anything like some of the vw's, where if you lower more than 40mm you have to cut the chassis to avoid hitting the drive shaft and changing or removing the anti roll bar.

I have had avo and v-maxx coilovers on old golfs before but they were too harsh.

My mate has some jamex coilovers on his corrado and they are very smooth.

I have 7.5x18 et 42 alloys with 215/35/18 tyres. They are 5x100 so will need pcd adapters.

I want to get the wheels as close to the arch as possible so will be going quite low.
 
I've seen pictures of some seriously slammed B5's. Stapo69's was virtually underground when he had his slammed on air-ride!

I had grounding issues with my S4 when it was too low, but I don't think the A4's would have the same problems as my downpipe flexis were what used to scrape, and I imagine an A4's exhaust system wouldn't sit as low.

As far as I know, there are no issues with having to custom build suspension components, etc. Think you can even sort out the camber with the standard parts (at least you can on the S4).
 
^^As above,mine handles ok,but its a nightmare dodging potholes and speedramps,dont even go there:noway:
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had NO problems on Wytec coilovers for 4 years and Millions of miles when it was a 2.5tdi

handling was absolutly AWESOME DUDE, think american accent, cali style, dude lol only jesting, hope not to offend anyone :p
with an ARB kit on the front it was amazing on the track, seriously, get it done, oh and do a dummy run to chop the bumpstops up, not good riding on them!

as above again......... lol............ potholes, speedbumps and most important, on motorways at 130+ going over bumps that drop away downover then land, bounce back is a bitch, if your bird has big tits, she gonna hate you and the car...... trust me PMSL!! :D

but looks far outweigh the rest.

Sean
 
I lie, only problem i had was due to suspension not moving at all, you dont get knocks off balljoints, well i didnt, even at work on the ramp and first thing i knew i had a problem was the lower balljoint parted company with its longtime friend, the wishbone lol

check these regular or you will have serious serious damage if your doing any sort of speed.
 
Bit of a contradication when you say it takes off over bumps and handles well?

To handle well on a ROAD you need the suspension to move. Unfortunately if the cars slammed and has about 12mm of suspension travel, you need to ramp up the spring rates to stop it bottoming out, and the result is a horrible crashy ride. You also need to wind up the dampers to control the springs, and with most cheap crappy kits that means the rebound settings end up far too high, and the wheels dont stay in touch with the road surface.

Yes, theres no bodyroll, but that doesnt mean it handles well, because the slightest bump or undulation will soon see you disappearing into the hedgerows.

For me, function comes before styling, and if you want a road car to handle properly, it needs to have compliance in the suspension. Dont try to kid yourself that because the car feels like "its on rails" it handles well, it just becomes horrible to drive anywhere near the limit, and you'll get ****** on by someone in a standard car when the going gets tough down a B road, unless ofcourse you happen to live in the only county in the UK which has glass smooth roads with racetrack style visibility.
 
Bit of a contradication when you say it takes off over bumps and handles well?

To handle well on a ROAD you need the suspension to move. Unfortunately if the cars slammed and has about 12mm of suspension travel, you need to ramp up the spring rates to stop it bottoming out, and the result is a horrible crashy ride. You also need to wind up the dampers to control the springs, and with most cheap crappy kits that means the rebound settings end up far too high, and the wheels dont stay in touch with the road surface.

Yes, theres no bodyroll, but that doesnt mean it handles well, because the slightest bump or undulation will soon see you disappearing into the hedgerows.

For me, function comes before styling, and if you want a road car to handle properly, it needs to have compliance in the suspension. Dont try to kid yourself that because the car feels like "its on rails" it handles well, it just becomes horrible to drive anywhere near the limit, and you'll get ****** on by someone in a standard car when the going gets tough down a B road, unless ofcourse you happen to live in the only county in the UK which has glass smooth roads with racetrack style visibility.

I have to agree with this, if you want it to look slammed and arent bothered about the ride then get it as low as you can, if you want the car to handle and drive nicely then you need to find the balance between ride height and suspension travel, either way you want to go you need coilovers but as said above depending on what you want out of the car the setup will be key. And IMO a 30mm lowered car looks tons better than a standard one so dont feel like the car needs to be on the deck to look good..
 
My little A4 2wd is on Jamex Coilovers. They are very smooth on road and not crashy at all. It handles pot holes and speedbumps fine. The last time I drove it was in the snow and ice and it behaved itself perfectly. Far better than I imagined a budget suspension kit would!
The Jamex kit is fixed rate, so at least you have the benifit of Jamex engineers setting the bump and rebound rates as opposed to the adjustable type where most people assume stiffer is better.
Be very wary of Race spec Coilovers on road cars. Rose joints and road salt don't mix well and on the limit handling will be very unforgiving.

Paul.
 
the only way to have the best of both worlds imo is air ride decked for shows and and raised for cruising around.
 
At the end of the day its all down to personal opinion, its your car, do what you like with it!! I know if my car was slammed it may not drive as nice as before but it would look great, i love low cars so i'll lower it!!
 
I'm not getting involved (too much).

'Handling' and 'ride' are two different things.

Mine does both really well... even though it's on its ****.

I would challenge anyone to say that it doesn't... after driving it.

Wanna put up a 'standard suspension' A4 against mine around Cadwell...? :box:
 
geeman, i'm sure your car would do well round a track, because track cars are generally low and stiff, and the track surfaces tend to be extremely good quality and very smooth.

A fast track car does not make a fast road car though, and i'd be willing to bet that down a country B-road, the stock car would fare far better, assuming ofcourse that all its mechanicals were in good order. Not really fair comparing your shiney new coilovers with a 12 year old set of shocks and springs is it?

Unfortunately, a low and stiff car FEELS at least initially more positive, as it sits flatter thru the corners and doesnt wallow about. The reduced bodyroll gives the driver more confidence, but its not actually improved the handling. My brother had a nova a few years back on spax coilovers. They were far too hard and the car was low, although perhaps not as low as the dubbers take it. It was extremely unpredictable though, as yes it was stiff and you could push it into a corner with great confidence thinking "its on rails" to use the oft used phrase, however if that corner or roundabout or whatever happened to be a little uneven, or perhaps had some broken up tar, or basically anything that required the suspension to work, it would start running wide and almost skipping over the road because it was so hard.

Similarly i had an old astra, which i'd fitted with some Speedline Alesios and some decent tyres, and drove it around for a few months on the standard suspension. You could throw it into a roundabout and it rolled over onto its door handles comical style, yet still gripped pretty well. After a while i picked up some lowering springs and koni shocks, and fitted them, which totally transformed how the car FELT when driving it around. I still couldnt drive round the roundabouts any faster, and it still began to understeer at more or less the same point, it just felt a lot better doing so. Ie the modifications hadnt improved mechanical grip all that much, but gave me the perception that the car now handled better.

Stiff suspension can reduce mechanical grip, because to control the stiff springs you tend to have the shocks wound right up, and that means once the shock compresses over a bump, it resists the spring pushing the wheel back down onto the road, giving the unpredictable handling i experienced with the nova. Craig fixed the nova by changing the spax coilovers for a different brand which were a lot better, however if your running the car extremely low, you dont really have much choice but to run stiff springs, as otherwise the car will bottom out.
 
From experience and through talking to people in the know (that might as well be talking to me in Latin when they get going), with coilovers they recomend only a 25-35mm drop over the ride height of the standard car for optimum handling.

I'm ****** off with mine as low as it is and will be bringing it up at least 20mm and then getting it corner weighted so I can make the most of the kit I have shelled out on.