Austineer
King of cabs ;)
Just fitted my APR boost gauge yesturday and am quite happy with the results. I bought the gauge from awesome gti for £176 which came with all fittings included (unfortunately no instructions). Anyway took me and a friend approx 3 hrs to fit and to be honest was a bit of a ****. The main problem came routing the pressure line from the gauge through to the engine bay. A few tips incase anyone else tries to fit this gauge themselves:-
a) Central Air vent has a female & male locking points just molded into the dashboard & vent and will pull out easily if you insert a flat bladed screw driver in both ends at the same time and gently pull forward.
b) Central vent will just push out the front with flat bladed screw drivers at both sides
c) Remove the airflow guard (this blocks the air into the car).
d) Adjust mounting pins of gauge to get it to slot into the vent.
c) Tap off existing electrical wiring to supply power to the gauge (existing wiring used to light up vent openers).
d) Connect up thin white pressure line using connection pieces to back of gauge.
e) Route pressure line through existing grommet in airflow duct (in right hand side where electric cable is) through to drivers footwell.
f) Route the pressure line through the gromet used by the bonet teleflex cable into the engine bay (this is a right **** to do).
g) Connect the thicker black pressure pipe and route inside battery side of bulkhead.
h) Pass through rubber grommet in bulkhead to inlet manifold.
i) Either just connect it to where green cap is on inlet side of check valve or
removed pressure line from fuel pressure regulator and link using T piece with boost cable.
Just to note that this was the method I used and this may not be the recommended way to fit this gauge. Hopefully it will give you an idea how to do it yourself but dont take these as the perfect solution. Note: after you have disturbed to grommet in the teleflex cable for the bonnet release I would recommend you seal this back up with silicon as water can get through into the inside of the car if you dont.
The boost gauge itself gives me a good indication of what is going on with my turbo, diverter valve etc and is a good 'rough and dirty' fault diagonis tool. However it appears that my set up is running well with no fluxtuations in pressure and a sustained max boost pressure of about 16-17 psi (1.1- 1.15 bar ish) of which is about right for a 1 bar chip & N75J valve. So its on to the K04 next for me and I will be interested what happens to the boost before the software is altered i.e. just fitting the turbo as a straight swap.
a) Central Air vent has a female & male locking points just molded into the dashboard & vent and will pull out easily if you insert a flat bladed screw driver in both ends at the same time and gently pull forward.
b) Central vent will just push out the front with flat bladed screw drivers at both sides
c) Remove the airflow guard (this blocks the air into the car).
d) Adjust mounting pins of gauge to get it to slot into the vent.
c) Tap off existing electrical wiring to supply power to the gauge (existing wiring used to light up vent openers).
d) Connect up thin white pressure line using connection pieces to back of gauge.
e) Route pressure line through existing grommet in airflow duct (in right hand side where electric cable is) through to drivers footwell.
f) Route the pressure line through the gromet used by the bonet teleflex cable into the engine bay (this is a right **** to do).
g) Connect the thicker black pressure pipe and route inside battery side of bulkhead.
h) Pass through rubber grommet in bulkhead to inlet manifold.
i) Either just connect it to where green cap is on inlet side of check valve or
removed pressure line from fuel pressure regulator and link using T piece with boost cable.
Just to note that this was the method I used and this may not be the recommended way to fit this gauge. Hopefully it will give you an idea how to do it yourself but dont take these as the perfect solution. Note: after you have disturbed to grommet in the teleflex cable for the bonnet release I would recommend you seal this back up with silicon as water can get through into the inside of the car if you dont.
The boost gauge itself gives me a good indication of what is going on with my turbo, diverter valve etc and is a good 'rough and dirty' fault diagonis tool. However it appears that my set up is running well with no fluxtuations in pressure and a sustained max boost pressure of about 16-17 psi (1.1- 1.15 bar ish) of which is about right for a 1 bar chip & N75J valve. So its on to the K04 next for me and I will be interested what happens to the boost before the software is altered i.e. just fitting the turbo as a straight swap.
