Dump Valve Question 1.8TQS

muz_amin

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hi guys,

ok can i first off start by saying im NOT a chav!!! lol however i still would like sto fit a dump valve to my car.......not a ridiculously loud one that makes a noise louder than the engine, just one you can hear in a subtle way.........

preferably i would like one where the noise can be turned on and off at will but im sure thats not possible.......

either way i know fitting a cone air filter imporves the engine noise and i would like a dump valve to go with it......somthing cheap if possible.....

any one fill me in on what kind to get and generally what a dump valve does if anything?

cheers guys
:blackrs4::respekt:
 
Fitting the cone filter should make the factory recirc valve more audible. Be aware that oiled filters can cause fouling of the MAF and you may need to clean it a few times.

I run a K&N cone with a Forge 007 re-circulating dumpvalve an it's quite audible but not OTT
 
I looked to put a cone filter on mine, but with all the stuff hung on the airbox it looked too much like hard work. But with the new turbo going on soon ill look to relocate stuff...
 
The biggest issue with using a dump valve on a MAF equipped engine like the AEB is that because the ECU uses the MAF readings to calculate the fuelling, when you dump the air it acts like a massive air leak, and you end up with a large rich spike immediately after the dump causing all sorts of running issues, as the ECU doesnt realise the air's gone, and fuels for it anyway.

I would fit the cone filter first if you really want the noise, and see how that goes.

Personally, both mods deserve to go in the bin where they belong. Cone filters DO NOT filter properly, which is why they are coated in oil to attempt to do what the filter element is not. They also dont actually improve power. If you want an engine note then change the exhaust, as at least that has no unwanted side effects.

You might get a better engine note by modifying the airbox, opening up the air inlets by drilling extra holes in the lower section and removing the "snorkel" will give you more of an engine note. Best of all its free.
 
The biggest issue with using a dump valve on a MAF equipped engine like the AEB is that because the ECU uses the MAF readings to calculate the fuelling, when you dump the air it acts like a massive air leak, and you end up with a large rich spike immediately after the dump causing all sorts of running issues, as the ECU doesnt realise the air's gone, and fuels for it anyway.

I would fit the cone filter first if you really want the noise, and see how that goes.

Personally, both mods deserve to go in the bin where they belong. Cone filters DO NOT filter properly, which is why they are coated in oil to attempt to do what the filter element is not. They also dont actually improve power. If you want an engine note then change the exhaust, as at least that has no unwanted side effects.

You might get a better engine note by modifying the airbox, opening up the air inlets by drilling extra holes in the lower section and removing the "snorkel" will give you more of an engine note. Best of all its free.

I'm not sure I would entirely agree. A cone filter correctly used can give an improvement in power from the testing I have seen. My own car recorded slightly better results with the cone than without. At best I would say it's a bit of a grey area.

Agree with you on the DV thing though
 
Evening all. I've got a Forge Splitter DV on my TQS. I've seen no bad results from having it on. It has many different variables in how much 'dump' you release. I think mine is about a quarter turn and is deffinately audible but not scooby like. I'm no chav either but have always liked the noise made by a dumping turbo
 
I'm not sure I would entirely agree. A cone filter correctly used can give an improvement in power from the testing I have seen. My own car recorded slightly better results with the cone than without. At best I would say it's a bit of a grey area.

Agree with you on the DV thing though

It entirely depends how restrictive the stock intake is.

Various mags over the years have run back to back dyno tests on cars with and without "induction kits" and often there is no difference, or the difference is so small you cant draw any real conclusions (gaining 3hp on an engine developing 170hp for instance is such a small change it cant scientifically be attributed solely to the filter, and simply comes down to experimental error).

Some cars WILL show an improvement, one that comes to mind is the Fiesta ST with the 2.0 Mazda engine. But that happens for a reason, the engine makes 170hp in the MX5 and 150hp in the ST, and most of that difference comes down to the restrictive intake system ford fitted on the Fez. Fit a cone filter/induction kit and you'll see 160-165 all day long. That doesnt mean the filter itself is any better, its just the intake setup as a whole is much better.

By all means a paper filter might cost you a horsepower or two. But i'd rather have 148hp and properly filtered air, than 150hp and half the sahara being drawn thru the engine!
 
I thought you only got chatter when there was no DV? Something to do with compressor stall or the like? Then again I may be wrong:readit:
 
I want mine to sound like that!! So that was with a TT DV and K&N Induction kit?

Dan
 
Good lord, small world. I clipped youre you tube video ages ago so my mobile phone msg alert was youre chatter LOL