B5 1.8t running issues! Help PLEASE!

s11pyk1234

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Hi, Im new to this and have just bought my second ever Audi, great news you think! No, its broken!!!!!
I was driving it home on the motorway and when i put my foot down fully it started to feel like it cut out for a second then accelerate, cut out accelerate until i took my foot off, could hear the turbo spool up and it felt ok? Once off the motorway it seems to have no power more 1.4 than 1.8turbo? when setting off the revs drop to nothing and you have to slip the clutch to get going and under acceleration it just cuts out (cars like a kangaroo up the road)
Any help or ideas as to what this could be will be greatly appreciated, or give me 800 quid and take the problem away lol! Thanks in advance!:blackrs4:
 
Hi mate what is the age/spec of the car?
It could be as simple as a pipe off somewhere, or a faulty N75 valve.
 
Its a 95 Nreg 1.8t sport, i believe its standard, some history and it has 105k on the clock, it has a 99 interior so no wear to verify the mileage although the steering wheel is very shiny so it could be more! Im no mechanic and am afraid this is gonna be my mk1 golf all over again! how do i check the n75 valve? il get it checked over to see if there are any loose pipes, thanks
 
Vagcom is a useful investment. You can pick up a lead on ebay as a starter for about a tenner which allows you to access the fault codes stored in the ECU. Unlike the mk1 golf, the audi may well know whats wrong with itself already ;)
 
The car will fuel cut if the N75 isnt working or if the actuator is disconnected or not working. So look alongside the turbo, and you will see a cylinder thing with a rod on it, the cylinder end should have a vacuum pipe on it connected to a T piece thing with wires on it ( this is the N75) then the other end of the N75 should go to the turbo housing.

Thats what i would first look for. Its not uncommon for pipes to rot off and perish
 
thanks il check that, also it had a puddle in the drivers side rear footwell, the guy claims he had left the car with the window open but iv mopped it out and parked uphill so the water runs back but it doesnt seem to be going away, we had heavy rain recently and im sure its getting in. any ideas? thanks again
 
Have a look in the scuttle panel, its probably full of water,

There are two drains, one behind the servo and the other below the battery and they'll be blocked up.
 
This could also be the cause of your problems, bet money your battery area is either full of water or the drain holes are blocked.

Clear the drain holes dry out the car and things might get better once she's dried out.

I would also say do a full service on the car and look at replacing the DV, N75 valve, cam belt if you do not know when it was last done, water pump and upgrading some of the intake and intercooler pipes to save you a load of problems going forwards.
 
cheers fellas, sandip (legend) came out and scanned it on vag com, lambda seems faulty although i was assured it was new and it looks ok! he suggested new plugs as a must and the cars running rich, also the ignition timing module thing isnt screwed down so need to source some bolts for it. hope that cures it and i can get out in her! sandip reckons it might even be mapped, bonus! Il check the scuttle area and have a clear out, then need to dry it out and get rid of the pondwater smell! trying to source some oem parts to get rid of the garish kit. does anyone know if 99 model taillights will fit and same for the bumpers.
 
well, screwed the thing down and am waiting on myplugs, took it down the road and all i got was a load of popping and banging, it seems worse, could this be just the plugs, am really worried now cos its gonna get expensive i know it!
 
Is it worse or better if you disconnect the coil packs one cylinder at a time to varufy if perhaps its missing under boost due to a faulty coil pack
 
unclip the wires from pack no 1( closest the front) start the car and note if it worse or not. Stop the car re attatch no 1, and dissconnect no2, restart car and note better or worse. Repeat for all cylinders.

If you come across one that makes little or no difference, then thats the cylinder causung the probs. It's free and easy to diagnose