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dieselfitter251

dieselfitter251

Blow ma own trumpet?
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Just about to put the new rear ABS sensors, (courtesy of Siena, cheers mate... great service as usual) on the car!! Watch this space for cursin:banghead:, questions:think:, anxiety:wtf: and hopefully jubilation!:jester:
 
let us know how you get on as i need to do mine soon,
cheers and good luck
 
let us know how you get on as i need to do mine soon,
cheers and good luck
 
Well. Sensors in and all seems ok with them. Still got my 65535 internal memory fault and think that's where my problem lies....:sob: (i) is still up.
My module went away to BBA reman and came back with a clean bill of health,(Lengthy post in here w hile ago). I think the only way I'm gonna get to the botton of this is to get it on a specialist machine to see what it can find. It's got the MOT tomorrow so I'll see if the Garage has the correct gear and get them to have a look see.

As for the actual sensor change. Pop in pop out. I was a bit dubious about how far the sensors go in and seems that they're just about in all the way. Maybe just over mil at the top of the sensor left. I had to grip the left rear (gentley!) with mole grips over a towel to twist it in ,(ooer!). Biggest pia is getting the flor pan gromets back in! Gonna do that with ramps later.

So if anybody has any idea, or is in the East Lothian / Edinburgh and can maybe swap an ECU unit to help it'd be greatly appreciated! I let you all know what happens after the MOT tomorrow.
 
Good luck with the MOT, I always get a cold sweat on even if I know there's nothing wrong...
 
do you need to reset anything after you fit the sensors?
 
Nah... only clear the fault codes. The thing is, my ABS used to trip above 20mph, which is when the sensor kick in, the car is triggering much earlier. I'll let you all know what the craic is...
 
ABS light is an MOT fail mate.

I think you need to stop messing around with this duff ECU and get yourself another one. I suspect there MAY be another fault, that the faulty ECU is just not managing to record, however its going to take a working ECU to find it.

One last thing that might work, is if you start the car, drive until you get the (!), then check the fault codes without shutting the engine off. If the memory in the ECU is faulty, but the ECU works, then you might get the codes out of it while they're still "fresh" as it were.
 
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Audi-A4-2-6l-Quattro-BOSCH-ABS-ECU-MODULE_W0QQitemZ200322121939QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item200322121939&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:2|65:1|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:1|294:50

dunno if all quattros ecus are the same?
 
audi upgrades
aragorn said:
ABS light is an MOT fail mate.

I think you need to stop messing around with this duff ECU and get yourself another one. I suspect there MAY be another fault, that the faulty ECU is just not managing to record, however its going to take a working ECU to find it.

One last thing that might work, is if you start the car, drive until you get the (!), then check the fault codes without shutting the engine off. If the memory in the ECU is faulty, but the ECU works, then you might get the codes out of it while they're still "fresh" as it were.
Click to expand...

I think you're right about the unit. The sensors needed done anyway. I'll give your final fix recom. a go. I'm fully expecting it to fail but hoping the garage may be able to get more info from it than me.
 
mikeya4 said:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Audi-A4-2-6l-Quattro-BOSCH-ABS-ECU-MODULE_W0QQitemZ200322121939QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item200322121939&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:2|65:1|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:1|294:50

dunno if all quattros ecus are the same?
Click to expand...

Thanks for looking but that one won't do... Doesn't look right and the P/n's wrong. Thanks again though....
 
Well I knew it would fail on the ABS. I'm sourcing a replacement unit.. other fail points.
Front off side upper, (rear) control arm excessive play... Easy fix. Providing the bolts aren't fecked!
Nearside front indicator bulb showing white. Didn't notice this myself.

Advisory points:
Centre prop bearing worn. Looks easy enough, will probably do this while I'm doing the arm. Not a fail but a definate waggle in the prop shaft!
Nearside front tyre due to be replaced.

And thats it.. Not that bad for 242k worth of traveling... Got the Nuneaton run tomorrow and back Saturday so I'm going for a retest by next friday. The biggest unkown is if I can get me an ABS unit by then. Any body any pointers on the work I've got ahead:readit:? All looks pretty straight forward to me.
 
what part number is the abs module?i have one in my shed that i got but its was wrong for mine.
 
i'd consider looking at replacing all the arms, rather than just one.

It will really transform how the car drives, and lets face it, if ones dead, the rest arent far behind...
 
and dont buy the chocolate ones off ebay or you will be buying a set next year.thats the same number as mine.im putting a new module in mine today as its goosed.i have one that has AH at the end out an a6 quattro.it never worked in my 2000 car but may work in yours as its older?
 
Just over £300 for a full set of (decent) arms though...

What was the reason for replacing the ABS sensor...? Purely because the warning light is on... or were there other contributory reasons?
 
The ABS sensor were throwing fault codes, and they looked like Pooooo! Just this damn ECU to get sorted now. Ian52. Where did you get you ECU from?
 
i got the one i am about to fit from doculey on here.the one from the a6 i got from my local scrapie.when you took the module bit off did it have 6 or 9 solenoids or whatever they are.when i put the a6 one in mine the light went out but sometimes the abs would come on as soon as i touched the brakes.not sure if its just that its not compatible with my car or its broken as well.
 
Mine has 9 solenoids. I think I'm going to get a few things checked before I purchase a replacement unit. I seem to remember the fault code always being there. Even when I got the car... I've been told that the air gap in the sensors is crucial, and that while it may not throw a fault code it might be responsible for tripping the system. Just waiting for the laptop to charge up! Double check the measuring blocks and see that I'm getting good readings.
 
how far do you need to push the sensors in then? im really concerned about messing it up, and they certainly arn't cheap things either
 
I have a problem with my ABS, though I'm not sure it's the same...

When I come to a standstill, the ABS triggers and the pedal judders. If I stop slowly, I can 'avoid' this happening...

Any ideas? related to sensors do you think?

Sorry to hijack your thread. :eyebrows:
 
The air gap is the distance between the end of the sensor and the ABS rotor (which is usually a toothed disc or drum) which the sensor reads as a pulsating value as the teeth run through the magnetic field of the sensor. Ideally, we should split the hub to see where the sensor is and maybe even measure it with feeler gauges. I think it's about a mill.
 
Is it really that hard to do the front upper rear arm. Haynes gives it 4 spanners:ohmy: and the link below , (which is very helpfull) makes it sound quite a handfull. While I'm willing to get stuck in I hate getting out of my depth...

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthread.php?t=56854&highlight=suspension+arm

I've also noticed that the centre prop bearing isn't replaceable. i.e. it's the whole prop shaft as the bearing is part of the unit... anybody clarify this? and... does anybody have one lying around? Doc, have you broken this part of your car yet?

I'm looking forward to getting stuck in, I've got a free week next week and I'm up for making the most of my time. Money is an issue but I need the car on the road.
 
i done one on the upper front of my fwd tdi and took about 2 hours, i think the front upper rear arm has more clearance so should be easier, I didn't find it hard, just fiddly! i think it might be easier to take the strut out. thats what i would do if i had to do it again
 
diesel, the other common issue is the reluctor ring becoming corroded so the ABS sensor cant pick up the signal. Fixing that requires new rear CV joints afaik.

Thats also possible to be the cause of intermittent ABS firing as in Geemans case.
 
just swapped my pump and no beeping or abs light.happy days.when i replaced a sensor i just pushed it in till it stopped.the old one had been touching the ring just enough to wear the end slightly.for the arm i think you will have to take the strut out to get the bolt out.its not that bad a job.the pinch bolt will be the hard bit.
 
Ok, guys cheers. I'll have a go at resetting the sensors my self, just been on to Edinburgh Audi and it's a 'Bring it in and we'll have a look' jobby... I'm not set up tool wise for the suspension arm, (that's this years christmas!) in terms of taking the strut out so it may just go to the garage to get it done. Any thoughts on the prop shaft? Is teh bearing repairable or is it a full replacement of the whole shaft?
 
Edinburgh audi arent going to tell you anything that vagcom cant, and they'll charge you a pretty penny for the privelage.

Did you try scanning for codes without turning the car off?
 
I've got one here, off a '98 car part number's 8E0 614 111H.

I've also got the one off a '97 car, actually it's still fitted, but it's a FWD, so may well be different.
 
Cheers Guys. I'm going to recheck the sensors gap. I'm getting nothing on measuring blocks... A garage thats been good to my dad told me about a curious problem with an older A4 that the red symbol was coming up but there were no fault codes... they re-adjusted the sensors and the problem was solved. Fingers crossed!
If spin the hub by hand with a wheel attached will I be able to get it to rotate fast enough to be recorded by measuring blocks?

I'm also in the market for a propshaft if anybody happens to have one lying around ;o)
I'll update this thread tomorrow.
 
i just pushed the sensor in as far as it would go and it works fine.
 
Hey guys, right. I've peered through the hole in the hub and am mightily confused... I can see the hub rotating but no posts or teeth. There apears to be a couple of small metal 'block's that are just floating in there....
501200.png


...I've had a look at the diagram above and can't get enough info as to how the hub and ABS look and work... anybody tell me what I should be looking at when the hub get's split?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sENdMWknatg

I tried to get a vid but I've not got a proper camera. Focal length on a K850i ain't that great, you can see the hub rotating insode though with nothing going round. Any chance somebody with ETKA (mine still won't play ball) could post a pic with the expanded rear hub and ABS ring? Ta!
 


This is what I'm expecting to see. But I can't see any teeth on the inside of my hub! WTF!?:think:
 
YEAH!! Partial success. Check the left rear hub and that ABS ring appears to be fine, cleaned it as best I could, popped the sensor in and get a good reading from Measuring blocks! Woo!
So, recommendations guys. The CV joint, is it replaceable by itself or is it better just to get the whole drive shaft? Ta again.
 
aragorn said:
diesel, the other common issue is the reluctor ring becoming corroded so the ABS sensor cant pick up the signal. Fixing that requires new rear CV joints afaik.

Thats also possible to be the cause of intermittent ABS firing as in Geemans case.
Click to expand...

Hey matey. Thanks for this BTW, it reminded me to take that good look into the hub and see the knackered off-side rear.:arco:
 
can replace it on its own.not sure if its same as front.if so its easy to do.
 
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