EM TuningChris Nott
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  1. #1
    ALPINE's Avatar
    Yes its diesel, now cry u lost

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    The so called "Service Mode" - or HOW TO GET AT ANYTHING IN THE FRONT (with Pics)

    I have noticed as of late alot of B5 ownders wanting to Change there Aux belts, Cam belts etc and have been asking how to get to these in the easyest way possable.

    Well i am bored and decided to write you up a thread as close to my knowlage as possable on how to do this, as the front of my car has been off more times than you care to imagion!

    So here goes!!

    you will need.

    1)screw drivers or 7mm socket (for jub clips)
    2)hex bits
    3)jack
    4)rachit
    5)a bit of time!!
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------

    1) Jack up the front of the car and put it onto stands as you will need to access screws in the front wheel archs.
    2)Take off both front Wheels
    3)Remove the 2 hex screws (marked in yellow) found on the front side of each wheel arch supporting the back side of the front bumper.

    4)Remove the 2 bumper vents in the bottom corners. There is a small clip that you need to push out to relese these. (self expanitry when in front of them). Then pull the out in the direction of the red arrows shown below.

    5)Marked in yellow above is where you will find the 2 bolts you will need to undo to remove the bumper. you will need a larger hex for this.
    6)with these removed, you will now be able to un-clip the sides of the bumper. this can be quite tricky if you have not done it before. push down and towards the front of the car to release. thats how i get mine off but others may do different!
    7)The bumper should now come clean off of the car. There will be the outside temp sensor attached which simply unclips.

    With the bumper off the car should look a little like this.

    8)Un screw the hex screws to remove the AC rad (if fitted) and lift it upwards. you can now carfully place this up agaist the drivers side wheel out the way.
    9)Remove the 6 bumper bracket bolts and remove brackets. there will only be 3 bolts per bracket but the 4th will need to be removed so you may as well do this now. Pictured below

    10)remove the top hose (pictured below) you may loose a small amount off coolent but it saves you draining the system.

    11)There are 2 boost hoses you need to remove.(if you are turboed, if not then skip this) these hoses are located, 1 off the bottom of the turbo. 2) off the bottom of the intercooler. they are attached to the steel pipe at the bottom under where your main rad is. undo the clips and disconnect from this steel pipe.
    12)disconnect the head light wiring, found on the back of the head light units at the bottom of the lighs nearest to indicators. Be sure to disconnect any other wires on the front panel that u can see. (some mite have a switch on the top of the slam panel for the alarm.)
    you mite want assistance for this part.
    13)Located just next to the headlights are 4 (2 either side) hex bolts. (pictured below) once removed the front end will come clear. remove these and get ya mate to help you pull the front end off. REMEMBER there are still coolant hoses attached so dont pull it out to far. the off side will come out more than the near side because of the lower hoses attached.

    onced removed it should look somthing like this.



    Just reverse what you done and refit!

    hope this was a help!

    Please excuse any spelling mistakes..... im not the best at spelling
    Last edited by ALPINE; 5th November 2008 at 12:45.

    Now to many mods to list! Lots of power, torque and Leather!

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  3. #2
    ALPINE's Avatar
    Yes its diesel, now cry u lost

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    maybe make this a sticky???

    I will add more detailed pics tomorrow when it is not dark

    Now to many mods to list! Lots of power, torque and Leather!

  4. #3
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    As i said in the other thread, this is not the procedure that Audi call "putting the lock carrier into service mode"

    The whole point of the service mode is you DO NOT need to remove the rad, pipes, cables etc

    You simply replace two of the bolts holding the lock carrier on with some threaded rod, and slide it forward, the pipes etc will all stretch enough to get into the engine, so you dont need to drain the coolant, or touch any of the boost hoses or cabling.

    Obviously if your doing a major job you can remove the whole lock carrier as shown above, however its not REQUIRED to change the timing belt or the aux belt or tensioners.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
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  5. #4
    ALPINE's Avatar
    Yes its diesel, now cry u lost

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    sorry did not see your other thread!

    and ill change the title. this has still got to help a few peeps out surley??

    my bad... ill got sit in my rotting corner that smells of rat piss.

    Now to many mods to list! Lots of power, torque and Leather!

  6. #5
    treblesykes's Avatar
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    looks like an ideal chance to take off those led's

  7. #6
    ALPINE's Avatar
    Yes its diesel, now cry u lost

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    Quote Originally Posted by treblesykes View Post
    looks like an ideal chance to take off those led's
    lol very good!! lol

    leave my leds alone!! lol

    Now to many mods to list! Lots of power, torque and Leather!

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALPINE View Post

    Just reverse what you done and refit!

    how do you reverse hitting it with a hammer??

  9. #8
    ALPINE's Avatar
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    haha! if you choose to hit your car with a hammer then thats up to you!

    Now to many mods to list! Lots of power, torque and Leather!

  10. #9
    audinary's Avatar
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    Mint thread chap. I'm gonna throw my Haynes manual on the bonfire

    '98 Santorin Blue 1.8t Sport

  11. #10
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    lol i wasnt trying to piss you off, simply pointing out that its a lot more work than is required for some of the tasks!

    Removing the whole Lock carrier for major service work is probably easier than trying to work in the gap you get in service mode, but for something like the auxbelt it does add quite a bit of extra work!

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
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  12. #11
    andybnwc's Avatar
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    howdo you service mode without removing pipes etc , top pipe seems to have no play at all?
    99 Nogaro S4 now black bonnet and roof,blackdiamond discs and pads,Hybrid K04 with uprated actuators ,Rs4 clutch custom lightweight flywheel, esp lightweight pulley set ,Rs4 intake pipes ,rs4 mounts ,full samco hose set,F-hose delete ,BMC carbon induction, full stainless exhaust with de cat pipes, custom chip,18"ultra lights,LED rear clusters,6000k xenons ,LED sides,KW coilovers,powerflex bushes ,Boost guage in pillar pod,isotta steering wheel and gearknob,B&M short shifter

  13. #12
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    It moves forwards about 6-10" with all the pipes, wiring and hoses connected, which is enough to get in and change the belts etc. Read your haynes manual or look in ELSAWin.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  14. #13
    A4Chris's Avatar
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    Very useful post with pics - a lot better explained than in the Haynes manual. So much so that I might even give it a go one weekend so I can finally get at that bloody water pump belt to change it! (managed to do main drive belt with a bit of squeezing, cursing and finger bending but gave up with the water pump belt!)

    Maybe I need to get out more, but found it really interesting to see from the pictures how all the turbo pipes etc are routed around the engine block.
    A4Chris
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    B5 Audi A4 1.8T Sport (standard)

  15. #14
    ALPINE's Avatar
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    glad you find it helpful mate.

    Now to many mods to list! Lots of power, torque and Leather!

  16. #15
    audinary's Avatar
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    Weirdly, when you're surrounded by bits of metal and plastic in a big pile, it all looks a bit daunting, but when the jobs finished and it all works I got quite an adrenaline rush.

    I'm pretty sure that service mode (everything still connected up) would have pissed me off. I'm 6'5" and have hands like shovels so getting to those awkward litlle bolts (all of them) would have prolly been somewhat of a git.

    '98 Santorin Blue 1.8t Sport

  17. #16
    tazzy baby's Avatar
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    Hi guys well i wish i found this site a few months ago when i first bought my A4 turbo. I had to change the TB and water pump and your post would of helped me out alot and saved me a lot of head scratching at the begining stage as the haynes book aint that good in detail. but got there in the end. Thats a great post well done butty

  18. #17
    tazzy baby's Avatar
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    Hi guys well i wish i found this site a few months ago when i first bought my A4 turbo. I had to change the TB and water pump and your post would of helped me out alot and saved me a lot of head scratching at the begining stage as the haynes book aint that good in detail. but got there in the end. Thats a great post well done butty

  19. #18
    AndyC's Avatar
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    any chance these pics and be re-up'd, its a very useful page
    there is no such thing as bad weather, just the wrong clothes!!

  20. #19
    pjw
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    Ditto, im doing the timing belt on mine soon..
    Paul

    Purpur A4 B5 - -50mm - S4 Interior - RS6 Alloys - 3" Stainless Exhaust - K&N Intake - HID

  21. #20
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    Hi good post.but i can not see any of your pics?

  22. #21
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    Bumpy as above, no pics.

 

 

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