my facelift b5 has rust at the sides of the moulding for the boot lock etc where just about every other facelift b5 i have seen rusts.has anybody been sucsesfull in getting this done under the corrosion warranty?its obviously a fault on audi's part as i have seen so many go the same way and the older ones dont.
boot rust problem on facelift?
- Thread starter ian52
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If you mean the aluminium licence plate plinth, then yes, common.
The earlier ones were certainly more durable, and didn't suffer the corrosion issues that seem to plague the facelift cars.
I deleted mine, so won't have that problem.
The earlier ones were certainly more durable, and didn't suffer the corrosion issues that seem to plague the facelift cars.
I deleted mine, so won't have that problem.
auroan
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I tried it with Audi when I got my facelift 2.8Q. They wouldn't entertain it as the motor didn't have full audi service history.
£100 later and I had the boot repaired and painted at my local body shop. But yeah it's a week spot where the handle rubs on the corners. I've put on a thicker foam gasket after the weather seal to prevent it from happening again.
£100 later and I had the boot repaired and painted at my local body shop. But yeah it's a week spot where the handle rubs on the corners. I've put on a thicker foam gasket after the weather seal to prevent it from happening again.
its strange how the early b5's dont rot.mine has bits on the lower parts of the doors as well but they are from stone chips other than one where it comes from under the rubber door trim.the early mk2 golfs dont rust anything like the later ones as well.strange.
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its funny people are talking about their cars being rusty, when we baught our car (9 months ago) the previous owner had knocked the front wing against something and dented it and chipped the paint off along the lower lip where it meets the bumper...
We still havent repaired it, and its not rusty at all, the metal is just a dull silver color. Isnt that whats supposed to happen with galvanised metal?
Maybe the newer cars arent galvanised quite as well or something?
We still havent repaired it, and its not rusty at all, the metal is just a dull silver color. Isnt that whats supposed to happen with galvanised metal?
Maybe the newer cars arent galvanised quite as well or something?
you would have thought so.mine is galvanised.it will still rust but it should be much harder for it to start.the front wings have some from stone chips at the bottom too.
Another option to prevent doors from lower end Red Terror ravage is to remove the lower rubber trims.
They retain moisture and grit, which eventually abrades the galvanised layer.
They retain moisture and grit, which eventually abrades the galvanised layer.
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it does, the only problem being that the car needs attacked with a grinder, welder and then a respray if you want that look...
Maybe. But on the other hand, rusting doors will need grinding / sanding down too, and painting.
mine is a 99 and i tried to get the local dealer to cough up, emphatic "NO" from them regardless of my list of other dealers who have,
got a can of paint and did it myself for about £20. took a couple of hours tops and even then it is is little bursts, had it out for a day while paint dried and then back in the following day.
surprisingly simple to remove, flat it down with 1200 grit paper, primer, dry, paint, dry, paint again, dry, (flat off with 2000 grit if you can be bothered) 1 coat of lacquer, dry, refit is the opposite to removal. refit rubber strips carefully and repair any paint rubbing underneath before you replace.
because it is a seperate piece the paint match can be slightly off without being noticeable. you wouldn't know I had done it if I didn't point it out.
got a can of paint and did it myself for about £20. took a couple of hours tops and even then it is is little bursts, had it out for a day while paint dried and then back in the following day.
surprisingly simple to remove, flat it down with 1200 grit paper, primer, dry, paint, dry, paint again, dry, (flat off with 2000 grit if you can be bothered) 1 coat of lacquer, dry, refit is the opposite to removal. refit rubber strips carefully and repair any paint rubbing underneath before you replace.
because it is a seperate piece the paint match can be slightly off without being noticeable. you wouldn't know I had done it if I didn't point it out.
