CAR BROKEN!!!

AUDI TURBO

AUDI TURBO

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HEre we go again my cars broken. for no reason i got a popping noise, juddering, and full loss of power. any gear above 2k revs the car just thuds, pops and crawls to a stop. boost gauge all over place. there no engine warnings coming on and ive recently replaced the ignition amplifier. any suggestions
 
if left to tick over it will run fine and blip throttle in neutral and no problems only when start driving.
 
my dads old 1.8T did something similar and it was the cat. The more throttle you tried to give it the slower it would go, if you feathered it very gently you could get it up to an acceptable speed but it had no power whatsoever.

probably worth checking?
 
have you checked your spark plug leads. might be the case that they have been moved around and are in the wrong order and car is miss-firing. it's a long shot but worth a try...
 
audi upgrades
BOOST leak woudnt cause such power loss. I dont mean the car low on power i mean it will not even accelarate at all. it judders and pops. spark leads cant be wrong they were fitted 2 /3 months ago and i knwo 100% they in right place.
 
example in 2nd gear foot to floor the car actually lowers in revs judders and pops to the point where car nearly stalls
 
my s4 when a pipe pops off will actually judder and cut out as a protection , when i say boost leak i mean as serious as a pipe come off completely
 
Boost gauge all over the place... :think:

I'm with Andy on this one. A severe boost leak will cause the ECU to cut back drastically. When one of my turbo pipes popped off, accelerating slowed the engine.
 
hi may be a silly question do you have or have access to VAG.com may be clear errors or see what error codes it brings up?

all the best
 
im going with the above regarding Big boost leak, when i first got my car back from the garage i decided to take it on a quiet road and i floored it 3rd gear all i heard was bang! next thing you know theres no power at all car was juddering and spluttering if i went any higher than 2500 RPMs drove 6 miles like that until i got home it was night time so i left it next morning got it to the garage and it was one the pipes that had come of the turbo inlet pipe! put it back and it was normal again.

i had the same eratic readings on the boost gauge and no power whatsoever if i attempted to speed up it wouldnt let me and the car would feel like its going to come to a stop.

recheck your pipes!
 
it will likely bog down as the engine will be fuelling for much more air than its actually seeing.

The air will be flowing thru the afm into the turbo, and then out to atmosphere. Engine management will add the required fuel to match the metered air, and the engine will bog down as its running badly rich. Makes sense to me, can you hear the turbo spooling/hissing?
 
Disconnect your N75 until you can get it sorted, so at least your turbo won't be spinning it's tits off trying to provide boost it will never make.
 
Checked vagcom last nite came up with simple faults instrument cluster and climate control. obv i sorted that. but the major fault was monotronic engine control unit faulty with a error code. cutting long story short it means my ecu has got a fault!!!!!!!!!!!!! ****** great. it started last night and it drives fine again now. but still showing fault. so im going to re-fit my orignal audi chip and see if fault code comes back
 
coil packs fine too ive checked that ill see if i can get the exact fault code onto site tonight for you to look at
 
Unplug your MAF connector.

If you've got a massive boost leak, the engine will be drawing in unmetered air.

Unplugging the MAF will make the car go into limp mode, but the ECU won't notice if there's a leak. With a boost leak, and the MAF connected, the ECU will over compensate by overfuelling, causing very poor running, and cutting out.
 
Surely it will only be drawing in unmetered air if the leak is between the MAF and the turbo as those parts are under negative pressure (due to the turbo sucking the air through the pipework). You will be losing metered air if the leak is between the turbo and the TB.

Not sure if it's different on a 1.8T, but on an S4 unplugging the MAF does not put the car into limp mode. If the MAF is disconnected the ECU uses assumed values for the air drawn in.
 
I agree ive discontected maf before all it does is just make the car run very slow. like i say it aint boost leak it ecu or my remapped chip has gone faulty. i wouldnt be surprised as the car never bin right since remap.
 
fault code is 16989 p0605 035 internal control module memory check sum error

please help does any one know what this means?? when i put my original audi chip in there is no fault code car runs fine. when put remapped chip in fault code comes up and the car still runs fine?? we think it broke down beacuse of a flat battery and low on petrol im embarrassed to say
 
The checksum is a data verification done by the ECU to make sure there is no corruption. If you are getting checksum errors, sounds like you've got ****** data on the chip.

Time to get a proper remap I think!
 
Mine showed exactly the same signs when I had a boost leak, idled fine, but wouldn't take any load, ran like ****, smoked bad, all sorts. When it packed up I didn't know what was wrong and I was in the middle of no where, unplugged maf and limped home just fine. Didn't show any faults on vagcom, swapped all sorts of parts, dv's, maf etc, and after days of scratching heads, I checked all the pipes again, and surprise suprise an intercooler hose had a chuffin great split in it, I'd just not spotted it before. Chopped the hose shorter, reconnected, and all was perfectly fine again. The simplest thing caused major running issues.
 
WELL it is a proper remap people on here have got the same remap from the same company. the car bin working fine for 8mths or so............but then again it could explain why i getting rubbish psi readings and why the car never felt that fast after remap maybe send it to another company................. i will check hoses again but like i say it running 100% fine now no problem but is reading that error though still
 
i would pressure test the inlet for peace of mind! Especially if you've been having ongoing boost pressure issues.
 
ok this annoying the car still running fine..............but now i have a strange fluttering/blowing noise whne under hard throttle. checking the FULL engine today as going on holiday end of month so need the car right. on another problem has anyone on here had problems with THS de-cat pipes. When i got mine nearly a year ago it rrived with a hefty DENT in one side when spoke to ths they send it was a manufacturing design to allow the bolt to be fitted. to be onest it a crap fit ived had to replace 4 cat to turbo gaskets because the you cant get to the bolt to tighten properly so looks like it coming off and getting the orginal cat back on car. ANY ONE WANT A DECAT PIPE????? See if you can have better luck!!!!!!
 
Its got to be a leak somewhere all the problems and signs point to it, shouldnt take you long to find it
 
WELL ive found a 1mm split in the pipe that goes from the dump valve to bottom of intercooler piping rather anooying as the DOC on here sorted me it out(nice blue pipe too) so ive cut the pipe back and reatached. ive also spoke to forge motorsport who suggested i turned round my dump valve so that the pipes were swapped round. ive done this and now im peaking at 14psi and holding at 12psi. do you think this to do with the tiny split or the dump valve bin swapped???
 
What boost should your car be running? (can't be ***** reading through all of the above posts again)

A split in the pipe would have caused a boost leak. Removing the leak would have sorted the problem. <edit> reading your post again, i'd be surprised if a 1mm split was big enough to give enough pressure loss to cause the problems you've been having. You haven't actually mentioned if you've pressure tested the car yet!

With the boost you are running, I would be surprised if the direction the DV was facing would cause a problem. You ideally want the DV piston to be moving perpendicular to the direction of the boost (ie: you don't want the boost pressure pressing directly against the spring).
 
NO i havent had pressure tested.yet.... but i was give the car a good check over and that samll split was the the pnly thing i could find. so best to sort it. the only reason why i swapped dump valve round was i was chatting to forge and he suggested it..... it has made the noise change too of the pressure bin released. but the primary thing is for some reason im geting more pressure
 
bump.......so anyone have any ideas why turning dump valve would differ any noise/perforamnce etc
 
Well surely the spring would be moving the wrong way ie letting all the boost straight back and not to the engine? or maybe not
 
I dont know but the boost gauge is telling me im get 13/14 psi peak and hold at 12 for longer now............ im replaceingg the internals soon of the dumpvalve to see if that helps to plus ill swap it back to noraml place see what difference i get
 
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