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Audi Upgrades Ltd

Audi Upgrades Ltd

OEM Level Retrofits
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Morning Chaps, hope we are well.

As some of you are aware I posted a 'post' a few days back looking for advice on a second hand A4. I'd like thank everyone firstly for their contributions.

Well.. I went to look at another Audi A4 1.8T Sport last night. Its T Reg (1999) and has 105371 miles on the clock (after I got back from the test drive).

I have a few questions I'd like to put to you lot before the guy comes back to me with his answers.

1. There was a 'ticking' or 'clicking' noise (thats how best I can describe it) coming from the engine bay. This was when the car was stationary and idling, but would only happen when you took your foot off the accelerator. Not when you were revving.. Its quite a fast tick (or click) noise, but I couldnt pinpoint the exact location of the 'ticking'.

Does anyone have any ideas what that might be and/or if its serious?

2. Whats the approx cost (not going to an Audi dealership) of replacing the front brake discs and pads on the above Audi? There are ok, but will need doing in the next 3-6 months I imagine. Can anyone recommend a certain brand/make of disc/pad?

3. Lastly, the black plastic trim along the bottom of the drivers door (I believe is only on the 'Sport' model? I could be wrong...) is loose and wont go back into the plastic 'plugs' on the body work of the door so it is flush. The guy said it would cost around £75 to replace. Anyone have an experience of this?

Other than that, the car is in fantastic condition and the interior is very clean. The DIS works fine and no warning lights are showing (apart from when you turn the key of course).

Oh, one last thing. He has one key (with remote central locking) and one plastic key (without any buttons on it) with a little white picture of a key on it. I'm assuming this is the security key?

Look forward to your replies.

Here is a link to the car: http://tinyurl.com/gcxpg

Its the 3rd one down at £2995 marked "L M S Cars"

Thanks again

Andy
 
Front pads & discs fitted at a VAG specialist should be about £220, OEM pads are Jurid IIRC, but there are better ones for more dosh.
The trim at the bottom of the door is a 5minute job, and you can get the part from Audi dealer for about £20, probably need to order it.
There should be 2 identical remote flip keys and one plastic "valet" key. The valet key should have a plastic tag on it which has the immobiliser code on it, but don't worry if this isn't there.
 
AndyMac

Cheers for that. I would prob go to a local garage to get the Brakes done if I bought the car.

The "Valet" key didnt have any tag on it. I remember that, it was just a loose key in the bag but had no buttons on it, was merely just a key (and not a plastic 'valet' key either like another Audi A4 1.8T Sport I looked at the other day)

The guy has also just called me back while typing this reply and has spoken to a few people (apparently) and has said that they think the ticking noise is minor.. perhaps a bearing in the alternator, heatshield loose perhaps or something similar. I mean I do admit the car drives very well and pulls very smoothly so I'm assuming its nothing major. My worry is just this small chance it could be.

He is also going to change the car battery for me as its a bit worn (are there any issues with swapping the battery?) and replace the duff fog lamp light bulb.

Cheers

Andy
 
Is the ticking noise not normal on the 1.8T's? I would try listen to one idling somewhere else. For £2995 its a lot of car and generally reliable motors. As long as it dont smoke when started up from cold or make a rattly scratchy noise when you start her up cold (From the turbo) it will probably be a safe buy.

Make sure you get no knocking noises from the front suspension when traveling SLOWLY <10mph over bumpy surface (Pot holes etc). This is can be EXTREMELY costly to fix and hugely annoying and potentially a wheel could fall off if not fixed...

That aside, make sure the waterpump was replaced when the cambelt was replaced - assuming it was replaced... ahh, that is about all I can think of. The rest is common sense I think.

Besta luck
L
 
The ticking noise you describe sounds the same as the problem I have with my 99 A4 TSport. When lifting off the accelerator I get a metalic rattle while the revs drop, which stops when the car reaches idle. I've been doing a lot of investigation, on this forum and by speaking to others. I am fairly confident that it is the actuator on the turbo that controls the turbo wastegate. as the reves drop the noise is the gate rattling as the actuator is not holding it open or closed.

Audi don't sell the actuator separately so you'd need a whole turbo which would be big bucks from them. I've seen turbos going on ebay for around £300.

The solution I intend to use is to purchase an adjustable actuator from Forge for around £90. This can be set as standard, for an unmodified engine. This job can be done DIY, but requires the turbo being removed.

I've been quoted £150(Labour) + £90(parts) by a well regarded Audi Specialist to supply and fit this.

Obviously it could be something different on yours, but it sounds similar to the noise I have. It has no impact on performance, but just makes the car sound crap!

Cheers

Andy
 
L,

Thanks for the info. I've been doing a lot of reading and the ticking noise has come up before in other posts as "normal" or perhaps the carbon filter?

It certainly doesnt smoke or make scratchy noises at any point from cold.

As for knocking noises from front suspension... I cant confirm that right now. I took it out onto the dual carriage way last night and then round a housing estate, tried a couple of 3 point turns... nothing really made any noise.. drove without the radio or climate control on just incase I had anything.. but nothing really. silent.

As for cambelt and such.. yep... checking that out now... HPI check online reports back all ok, as does the MOT check (www.motinfo.gov.uk).

From looking around I've seen that around the £350 mark is the correct figure for cambelt change/water pump/tensioner(s) and labour. Does that sound right? (I appreciate some people have been quoted nearly double in rare cases!)

Thanks again for all your help

Andy
 
Hi Andy

Sorry, missed your reply while I was typing that last one!

My rattle (as you put it) is certainly not a metallic rattle, nor is it very loud at all... very faint infact.. you have to listen hard for it. You can't hear it when inside the car certainly.

Its more of a tick... like "tick tick tick tick tick" about 2 'ticks' every second or so.. but constant and the rate doesnt fluctuate.... I'm thinking this might be different to your issue? The thought of a new Turbo puts me right off!

And yes.. no impact on performance either... car does shift when you want it too...

I really can't decide what to do!

A.
 
Is it a tappety noise? If not then it might be the alternator/viscous fan/compressor.
 
No.. its just a "tick, tick, tick, tick" noise....

I think its leading towards the alternator actually as the battery was low when we got there... (even though he is fitting a new battery today...)

If your standing facing the engine bay (standing inbetween the head lights) then the tick tick noise is coming from (and this is a guess!) the top left sort of area of the engine bay... but dont count me on it...

My mate who came with me had a Rover Coupe and he had a similar noise that turned out to be a faulty alternator...

Hmmm...
 
AndyCollins said:
The ticking noise you describe sounds the same as the problem I have with my 99 A4 TSport. When lifting off the accelerator I get a metalic rattle while the revs drop, which stops when the car reaches idle. I've been doing a lot of investigation, on this forum and by speaking to others. I am fairly confident that it is the actuator on the turbo that controls the turbo wastegate. as the reves drop the noise is the gate rattling as the actuator is not holding it open or closed.

Audi don't sell the actuator separately so you'd need a whole turbo which would be big bucks from them. I've seen turbos going on ebay for around £300.

The solution I intend to use is to purchase an adjustable actuator from Forge for around £90. This can be set as standard, for an unmodified engine. This job can be done DIY, but requires the turbo being removed.

I've been quoted £150(Labour) + £90(parts) by a well regarded Audi Specialist to supply and fit this.

Obviously it could be something different on yours, but it sounds similar to the noise I have. It has no impact on performance, but just makes the car sound crap!

Cheers

Andy
Click to expand...

you can buy a uprated actuator the the k03 from forge for around 80 quid and its nice and shiny :)
 
Right, I've had a quote from Southampton Audi (although I'm not near there) for Cambelt/Tensions/Water pump/Labour and VAT

£431 all in, inc VAT

£380 for Cambelt, Tensioners, Labour
£51 for Water pump, no extra labour charge

Sound about right? (thats if it needs doing in the first place!)

A.
 
Ok, just had another quote from Maidstone Audi... They have quoted either:

£579 all in, inc VAT for Cambelt, Tensioners etc etc
or £720 all in, inc Vat which includes Rib Belt and Rib Tensioners whatever that is!

Amazing how much it varies...

Also contacted GCS Engineering in Horsham (as they are near me) and awaiting a quote back from them...
 
I have a ticking noise which is only audible at tick over. It comes from something near the airbox and if you raise the revs slightly whilst the bonnet is up it will disapear. I had this checked out at Audi, who confirmed there was no problem at all. The brakes and discs I just had replaced by the dealer on my 1.8TQS which came in at £140 total......as stated above the trim is a piece of cake to change ....good luck
with the car, if thats all you have to worry about it sounds good
 
Mac

Yeah, the "ticking" only happens when you take the foot off the accelarator or at idle (when the bonnet is up too)

Its very slight and you do have to listen hard.. its not easily heard.

As the for plastic trim bit.. cool.. I'll order that (if I buy the car).. the body work beneath it is free from russ and corrosion. The plastic 'clips' all look good in the body of the door too.. its just the plastic clips on the trim bit itself which have fallen apart...

Cheers

A.
 
Andy
That ticking noise should go if you just blip the throttle.....will take about 5 or so seconds when the revs drop baclk off and will start again. I have been told off here from someone what it actually is, but I got the memory of a goldfish LOL. Check around the airbox though....good luck
 
andyhud said:
I did see yours mate and I have taken a liking to it... its just too much out of my budget unfortunately... sorry mate!

A.
Click to expand...


well if he takes the wheels of and seels them ;), and then the chip and exhaust ;)


LOL
 
Hi Andyhud, bit off topic, but did you ever get a quote from GCS Engineering? I'm considering using them and would be interested in what they quoted you.
 
andyhud said:
Mac

Yeah, the "ticking" only happens when you take the foot off the accelarator or at idle (when the bonnet is up too)

Its very slight and you do have to listen hard.. its not easily heard.

As the for plastic trim bit.. cool.. I'll order that (if I buy the car).. the body work beneath it is free from russ and corrosion. The plastic 'clips' all look good in the body of the door too.. its just the plastic clips on the trim bit itself which have fallen apart...

Cheers

A.
Click to expand...

I had a simlilar problem with mine and it ended up being the Exhaust Gas Recurculating Valve and cost me £75 for the part which was straight forward to change.
 
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