1.8SE Avant - Lumpy Tickover and Hesitancy - MAF Replaced - O2 Next?

LanciaNut69

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Hi Guys,

Right, the patient is our usually rock steady reliable Bananamobile, otherwise known as our Y Reg, A4 B5 Avant SE. It's just coming up for 126k miles and has thrown up a running rich code recently, resulting in increasingly poor performance on acceleration and cutting out at idle after initial start.

The initial code was

17545 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add) System too rich
P1137 - 35-00 - -

T-stat and water temp sensor were changed in the last year, along with plugs and all filters.

No other fault codes present at that time.

After doing a bit of reading, I ordered a new Bosch MAF sensor, which I fitted today. Result - no change! I then noticed that the vacuum pipes at the rear of the engine looked a little perished, so I changed them all for new hose. I also checked connections and sprayed with electrical contact cleaner.

Cleared codes and went for a drive - no further MIL showing and problem still not resolved.

Got back and ran VCDS Lite again to get following code

16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too low
P0102 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Unplugged MAF at tickover and same issue

My questions are -Has the new MAF failed or d/s to start with given I didn't have a MAF DTC specific before?

Should I therefore get another from a local factors - such as Eurocarparts, and return the one I got today to the eBay seller?
The exhaust and CAT have been changed in the last couple of years, but I think that both O2 sensors are the originals - is it worth replacing these - even though there is no specific O2 sensor fault code, and get a couple of coil packs as a backup plan?

The other potential areas are apparently the fuel pressure valve and the injectors, but my thinking is that I would have the issue everywhere and if I go WOT, then she will accelerate - it's more from start off and normal driving that she hesitates and bogs down.

Any advice or pointers would be gratefully received - thanks in advance guys.

Not sure if this is relevant, but following info also

Control Module - 8D0 906 018 AA
Component and/or version 1.8L R4/5V MOTR 0003
Software Coding 10001
Readiness 0110 1101

Darren
 
Next update - fitted brand new and correct Bosch MAF sensor - cleared the DTC for the MAF and no other faults showing, but still lumpy running.

Have looked at VCDS and measuring blocks

Block 1 is showing -26% Lambda until temps up to normal (88 Deg) and then varying -5% tp -10% unless revved and then goes to 0 when revved and goes to varying 5-10%+ before working its way back to -/+ around 3% figures.

Block 6 was fixed at 0% Lambda, but now that warmed up showing -1.6% irrespective of revving.

Engine still feels lumpy. will go for a drive and report back.

Ideas anyone?

Cheers

Darren
 
Ok, quick drive and still no power, and when back on the drive, stalling. Have the MAF DTC back again but no MIL so far. Can anyone advise on what to do next? I don't want to start just replacing stuff for the hell of it, or are there tests I can do?
So far - MAF replaced with proper Bosch unit
Air and other filters new
all small bore vacuum hoses around engine replaced.
no signs of leaking - but that would make the engine run lean surely?
plugs replaced approx a year or so ago.
fuel filter changed at same time, along with water temp sensor and t-stat.

Over to you what know - thanks again in advance.

Cheers

Darren
 
Thanks for coming back to me Aragorn - presumably there would be a DTC if there was an issue with any of the coil packs? I'll check the spark plugs, but guessing they'll be sooty anyway. I will check out the wiring around the MAF though tomorrow and let you know.

Cheers

Darren

is lumpyness perhaps missfiring?
 
Coils almost never give a fault code. These older ECU's dont have any misfire detection, and the ECU cant see whats happening on the HV side of the coil so it has no way of knowing if its working or not.
 
Is there anyway of testing the coil packs?

Coils almost never give a fault code. These older ECU's dont have any misfire detection, and the ECU cant see whats happening on the HV side of the coil so it has no way of knowing if its working or not.
 
Ok, today's update.

Wires to MAF sensor are clean and unbroken.
Spark plugs are normal colour, brown and not at all sooty. Have cleaned connections to coil pack and plugs.

No change. Start from cold, fires up straight away and sounds normal for around 10 to 20 seconds before runds progressively worse and stalls. This makes me think that the issue is caused by something that does not immediately come on stream, like O2 sensors that have to be warmed up before they take control. Do they take control and do they decide on mixture? But, plugs are normal colour, which may point to misfire. Don't want to race,coil pack if I don't need to, especially as its listed at over 200 quid!!

Please help guys, this is driving me to distraction!!!

Thanks

Darren
 
If your still getting the MAF sensor code, the fault has to lie with the MAF sensor, or its wiring.

Check continuity between MAF and ECU terminals.

Also check for 12v at the appropriate pins on the MAF connector to ensure fuse is intact.
 
Will do Aragorn. Is there anywhere to get a wiring diagram for an AAV engine so I know what pins are for what? I'll also check the fuse box.

Cheers

Darren

If your still getting the MAF sensor code, the fault has to lie with the MAF sensor, or its wiring.

Check continuity between MAF and ECU terminals.

Also check for 12v at the appropriate pins on the MAF connector to ensure fuse is intact.
 
Thought I'd post up on this for anyone else having the same problem. Read back through the thread for symptoms.

Took out injectors, cleaned and fitted with new o-rings - no change
PCV pipe work replaced as had got soft, along with the brittle outlet itself (124 quid!)

Finally tried unplugging front O2 sensor and immediately ran better! Replaced with a new one, fault codes cleared and all is well again

Cheers

Darren