On mine, previous owner removed mounting pins on drivers door and the other ones were rusted. So instead of spending almost 150 quid total I used a black sealing 25mm tape and removed all other pins.£4.99 all in. Looks pretty decent.
TQS track car project - extremely slow progress
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I'll need to do this on mine, where did you get the tape?
The blades are missing on mine and the pins are a rusty mess, so i'll remove them and seal over.
What did you use to remove the pins?
The blades are missing on mine and the pins are a rusty mess, so i'll remove them and seal over.
What did you use to remove the pins?
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I bought neoprene rubber strip 25mm. Can't link it on my mobile. If you remove pins, some of them might leave a hole so i wouldn't use duck tape as it will probably come off after some time and won't seal it properly. The tape i got is a bit spongy type. Ideally you would want to use a proper rubber strip but it's 3 times more expensive. The one i got was 4.95 for 10meters. Item number 170969225264
Guys, could one of you tqs owners check what is the part number on your oil dipstick? Mine has the top part broken so it's a pain to remove. I believe it should be 06B115611C but want to make sure. The part number is on the orange top of it.
Good couple of evenings and a bit of work done on the car.
Finally sold the Recaros so off we go with the interior.
Carpet out. I could fill in a large fish tank with the water that was in it.
Decided to remove all seat belts and airbag and all the wiring which was a bit of a pain.
Had to remove this:
to take out this
and this
aaand this
And all back together
The rear sorted now as well
so just roof liner and some pillar trims left.
And in we go with a sparco seat
Sparco did pretty good job with the frames except for one small thing
Bolts on the inside rail are fine
but on the outside they are too long because the rail isn't as deep
So the other seat will have to wait till I get correct bolts.
When I find a minute I will need to get the car to welders to have the plates for harness welded in.
Also managed to change the DV and the hose manifold->DV.
From this:
to this:
Is the DV mounted the correct way? I had to take a guess to be honest because I didn't look how the old one was fitted.
Not sure if you can tell from this pic
Finally sold the Recaros so off we go with the interior.
Carpet out. I could fill in a large fish tank with the water that was in it.
Decided to remove all seat belts and airbag and all the wiring which was a bit of a pain.
Had to remove this:
to take out this
and this
aaand this
And all back together
The rear sorted now as well
so just roof liner and some pillar trims left.
And in we go with a sparco seat
Sparco did pretty good job with the frames except for one small thing
Bolts on the inside rail are fine
but on the outside they are too long because the rail isn't as deep
So the other seat will have to wait till I get correct bolts.
When I find a minute I will need to get the car to welders to have the plates for harness welded in.
Also managed to change the DV and the hose manifold->DV.
From this:
to this:
Is the DV mounted the correct way? I had to take a guess to be honest because I didn't look how the old one was fitted.
Not sure if you can tell from this pic
Oranoco
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Been looking at the OMP Strada for mine as I use the car daily a full bucket won't work with standard seatbelt. Done harnesses in my daily before, not again lol
Heeh, yeah it is a pain to get in and out of the car.
I'm already thinking about quick release hub for the steering wheel.
Not really sure where I will mount the plates for top harnesses.
They should be at the height of shoulders so won't be easy.
I'm already thinking about quick release hub for the steering wheel.
Not really sure where I will mount the plates for top harnesses.
They should be at the height of shoulders so won't be easy.
AlexA4Avant
Registered User
If.your talking about seat harnesses then can you not go.through the head rest and attach to the original seat belt mounts
A lot of people do that but it isn't a good solution.
James SimpsonCorrect Harness Fitting » James Simpson
James SimpsonCorrect Harness Fitting » James Simpson
Yes the DV is in the 'stock' position, mine and possibly others is mounted at the TIP for more Noise with an open cone filter/modded air box.
IIRC the first of the older A4 1.8T's had it mounted on the TIP.
IIRC the first of the older A4 1.8T's had it mounted on the TIP.
I was wondering if the DV is connected correctly when it comes to the bigger 2 hoses.
If they are connected to the right sides of DV.
How can you mount it higher? You would have to extend both of these thick rubber hoses.
Looking at the small hose that I replaced for a new one, I doubt that it was causing the boost leak.
Had a look pretty much everywhere and can't see any more cracked hoses.
I think it will be turbo gone. The one I got off ebay should be here this week. Just wonder how well refurbed it was.
If they are connected to the right sides of DV.
How can you mount it higher? You would have to extend both of these thick rubber hoses.
Looking at the small hose that I replaced for a new one, I doubt that it was causing the boost leak.
Had a look pretty much everywhere and can't see any more cracked hoses.
I think it will be turbo gone. The one I got off ebay should be here this week. Just wonder how well refurbed it was.
Basically the DV is removed and all pipes stay where they are then on the TIP iirc theres a 90 degree elbow at the other end of the DV recirc pipe you just basically swap the elbow and DV the shorten the vac line from the manifold to DV.
Look at the right of this pic
Look at the right of this pic
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Everythings amplified on bose.
With the DV, boost goes in the side, which looks right from your pic.
Do you have a pic of the sparco subframe? I've been looking around for subframes for mine. What seat is it you've got?
With the DV, boost goes in the side, which looks right from your pic.
Do you have a pic of the sparco subframe? I've been looking around for subframes for mine. What seat is it you've got?
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For the harnesses, why cant you use the rear seatbelt mounting points in the floor?
IE point D on these photos:
http://img.jamessimpson.co.uk/2010/07/picture1dh21.png
Alternatively, have a "strut brace" type bar welded in across the rear tubs and mount the harnesses to there?
IE point D on these photos:
http://img.jamessimpson.co.uk/2010/07/picture1dh21.png
Alternatively, have a "strut brace" type bar welded in across the rear tubs and mount the harnesses to there?
Well, according to that guy from the website:
Quote:
"If you use harnessâs mounted to the rear seat mounting points in the event of a heavy frontal collision all the crash energy will be imparted downwards on your shoulders by the harnessâs. There;s only one place that energy can go and that;s straight down your spine â If that happens thereâs a very good chance youâll be paralysed for life."
Not sure what he understands by rear seat mounting points but I would assume that they will be similar location to rear belt mounts in the floor? According to him this is incorrect:
And that's pretty much how it would be in the B5 if mounted to lower seatbelt bolts.
Don't have sparco frames pics before mounting them in the car but as you can see here it is very similar at the back
to normal seat mounts. The difference is that you have a small metal plates with welded bolt nut on t it.
You stick it inside the rail and bolt the frame (1st part).
The second part is just mounted to the front like that with the securing pin (on a spring).
I don't like it too much because the pin isn't big enough and the frame moves up and down a bit.
So my plan is to remove the pin and use a bigger bolt which will hold it properly.
I am using sparco sliders at the moment but they are pretty much crap. When you slide the seat back, they don't lock in place.
I have the older sparco pro 2000 seats which are currently mounted to sliders. I will get a set of side mounts when they pop up on ebay cheap and fit the sit straight to the frame (seats are bottom and side mounted).
Sparco frames are pretty much the cheapest ones you can get off the shelf (and they are not cheap at all).
They come in 2 parts and you bolt them together when you mount them to the seat.
There is also a 3rd part which I can't work out how it is supposed to be fitted and don't see why would it be there at all.
They come in left and right side. I think there might have been different seat mount type in older a4's and that's what these are for?
On demontweeks if you look for frames for quattro you won't find them. Need to look for FWD.
Quote:
"If you use harnessâs mounted to the rear seat mounting points in the event of a heavy frontal collision all the crash energy will be imparted downwards on your shoulders by the harnessâs. There;s only one place that energy can go and that;s straight down your spine â If that happens thereâs a very good chance youâll be paralysed for life."
Not sure what he understands by rear seat mounting points but I would assume that they will be similar location to rear belt mounts in the floor? According to him this is incorrect:
And that's pretty much how it would be in the B5 if mounted to lower seatbelt bolts.
Don't have sparco frames pics before mounting them in the car but as you can see here it is very similar at the back
to normal seat mounts. The difference is that you have a small metal plates with welded bolt nut on t it.
You stick it inside the rail and bolt the frame (1st part).
The second part is just mounted to the front like that with the securing pin (on a spring).
I don't like it too much because the pin isn't big enough and the frame moves up and down a bit.
So my plan is to remove the pin and use a bigger bolt which will hold it properly.
I am using sparco sliders at the moment but they are pretty much crap. When you slide the seat back, they don't lock in place.
I have the older sparco pro 2000 seats which are currently mounted to sliders. I will get a set of side mounts when they pop up on ebay cheap and fit the sit straight to the frame (seats are bottom and side mounted).
Sparco frames are pretty much the cheapest ones you can get off the shelf (and they are not cheap at all).
They come in 2 parts and you bolt them together when you mount them to the seat.
There is also a 3rd part which I can't work out how it is supposed to be fitted and don't see why would it be there at all.
They come in left and right side. I think there might have been different seat mount type in older a4's and that's what these are for?
On demontweeks if you look for frames for quattro you won't find them. Need to look for FWD.
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Theres usually a minimum belt angle off the back off the seat, you'd need to measure and see if the rear mounts would give a suitable angle or not.
For those overlength bolts, why didnt you just cut them down?
For those overlength bolts, why didnt you just cut them down?
I had some high tensile 20mm bolts left so used them in the end. I will see what the angle is. Was thinking about welding mounting plates to the metal parcel shelf.
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I wouldnt think the parcel shelf is strong enough.
IF your going to weld anything, weld a piece of tube across the rear inner arch tubs like this:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0015/98/89/15898998_large.jpg
IF your going to weld anything, weld a piece of tube across the rear inner arch tubs like this:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0015/98/89/15898998_large.jpg
Yeah it doesnt look strong. I will be getting a 6 point rollcage probably next year which will have harness bar so for the time being I will check the seat belt mounts.
Well, oil pump done so I can finally drive it.
After changing DV, manifold->DV hose, soldering N75 wires the car still surges like mad on acceleration.
I had a smoke test done today and there is a small leak from the top of intercooler where plastic joins the core.
This doesn't seem like a massive thing to be honest and I doubt it is the reason for surge.
There is a very distinctive sound when it happens and it comes from the drivers side of the engine bay.
Now, I drove the car few times today after clearing codes and N75 code does not come back.
So it had to be due to the wiring.
I checked MAF. Car idles and runs fine. As soon as I unplug MAF it dies. So it must be ok.
So my other options are:
- N75 is faulty but doesn't show any errors. Is it possible?
- Wastegate actuator is fked.
- Dead turbo
Where should I start?
I will replace IC sooner or later but I want to get an FMIC straight away so that I don't throw money away.
Was looking at various 3" cores and just to make piping myself but it really doesn't sound like an IC issue at the moment.
After changing DV, manifold->DV hose, soldering N75 wires the car still surges like mad on acceleration.
I had a smoke test done today and there is a small leak from the top of intercooler where plastic joins the core.
This doesn't seem like a massive thing to be honest and I doubt it is the reason for surge.
There is a very distinctive sound when it happens and it comes from the drivers side of the engine bay.
Now, I drove the car few times today after clearing codes and N75 code does not come back.
So it had to be due to the wiring.
I checked MAF. Car idles and runs fine. As soon as I unplug MAF it dies. So it must be ok.
So my other options are:
- N75 is faulty but doesn't show any errors. Is it possible?
- Wastegate actuator is fked.
- Dead turbo
Where should I start?
I will replace IC sooner or later but I want to get an FMIC straight away so that I don't throw money away.
Was looking at various 3" cores and just to make piping myself but it really doesn't sound like an IC issue at the moment.
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If the IC is leaking you'll get lots of oddness.
Mums 1.8T had a split hose under the inlet manifold, and that was horrendous. Felt like it was missfiring, bucking and jolting then once it got to around 4k it sorted itself out and pulled like a train.
What exactly happens under accelleration? Do you have a boost guage and whats it reading?
Mums 1.8T had a split hose under the inlet manifold, and that was horrendous. Felt like it was missfiring, bucking and jolting then once it got to around 4k it sorted itself out and pulled like a train.
What exactly happens under accelleration? Do you have a boost guage and whats it reading?
Hopefully getting a boost gauge tomorrow for my birthday (if my gf listened!).
It is really strange. The pressure jumps up and down every second on harder acceleration. So it is like missfiring but definitely related to boost. Since I have changed the dv->manifold hose, there is no boost leaking whistle sound any more. It happens sometimes in 2nd gear at around 2krpm and then every gear i5 goes higher in revs.
I will have a look at the fmic on ebay but i really think it is way more than that.
It is really strange. The pressure jumps up and down every second on harder acceleration. So it is like missfiring but definitely related to boost. Since I have changed the dv->manifold hose, there is no boost leaking whistle sound any more. It happens sometimes in 2nd gear at around 2krpm and then every gear i5 goes higher in revs.
I will have a look at the fmic on ebay but i really think it is way more than that.
Look at this. Pretty much the same but on mine it is on higher revs as well http://youtu.be/5YELwHycmGI
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Mine did waggly boost like that with a broken DV, but it wasnt really noticable unless you looked at the guage. Ie you couldnt really feel it.
Leaks certainly wont help though, because the ECU has no boost sensor, it calculates boost from the airflow. If you have a leak, you get more airflow than you should, so the ECU starts fking around trying to fix it.
Leaks certainly wont help though, because the ECU has no boost sensor, it calculates boost from the airflow. If you have a leak, you get more airflow than you should, so the ECU starts fking around trying to fix it.
Yeah, I thought it would be DV but changed it to new one and still the same.
Looks like I need to start looking for an FMIC to get rid of the leak.
Wouldn't faulty N75 cause anything like that?
I will also change spark plugs.
What size socket do I need for ajl? Any specific plugs I should get?
Looks like I need to start looking for an FMIC to get rid of the leak.
Wouldn't faulty N75 cause anything like that?
I will also change spark plugs.
What size socket do I need for ajl? Any specific plugs I should get?
16mm for spark plugs and get BKR6E's or PFR6Q's little expensive but last longer than BKR6E's.
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It *could* be a faulty N75, but i'd be fixing the intercooler first.
No point guessing unknown faults when there are known issues that need fixed!
No point guessing unknown faults when there are known issues that need fixed!
Yeah, looking at IC on ebay.
There is a 3" one on auction which might be cheap.
It might be a bit of a push for a k03 but I was thinking about going
from 3" outlet to smaller with the piping. This way I wouldn't have to change IC when I go bigger turbo.
Just the piping.
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i used the 560x230x65 universal one on the avant. Its slightly smaller than the "wellycooler" size (600x300x75) but it fits a bit nicer and has more sensibly sized outlets.
Universal FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER Large 550 x 230 x 65 UK | eBay
Will probably get the same for the track car eventually.
Universal FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER Large 550 x 230 x 65 UK | eBay
Will probably get the same for the track car eventually.
I'm not sure what exactly is wellycooler (although I've read about many times) but the one I'm looking at is exactly same size. Universal.
Finally connected cd player so will no longer hear gearbox wining in 1st gear
Also got this for birthday:
Probably won't have time to fit it till Monday though
Finally connected cd player so will no longer hear gearbox wining in 1st gear
Also got this for birthday:
Probably won't have time to fit it till Monday though
So I've spent most of the evening fitting the gauge. Stuck it on blue tack for now. Lovely looking gauge just not bright enough (on video looks a lot brighter). Finished half an hour ago and went for a drive.
Half throttle pretty much all the time it is fine. On full throttle, doesn't matter on speed and gear, when it gets to 10psi it goes mad. It is actually worse when I drive slowly and floor it. Surges instantly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CVMD_kn5A0&feature=youtu.be
Half throttle pretty much all the time it is fine. On full throttle, doesn't matter on speed and gear, when it gets to 10psi it goes mad. It is actually worse when I drive slowly and floor it. Surges instantly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CVMD_kn5A0&feature=youtu.be
Nice work, first thing get yourself over to the a3/s3 8l section and search wellycooler it's the one to have, second thing there is more oem looking boost gauges if your wanting that look and they are cheap, thirdly do NOT mount harnesses anywhere but to a welded rear bar or roll cage! It's a definite no no......
In 8l section search prawns track car to see how to fit your own seats and harnesses he has done it properly , and guy was right if you crash with wrongly fitted harnesses you will f**k yourself.
I rolled a civic at 60mph four times into a ditch upside down and they said the only thing that saved me was correctly fitted seats and harness ( carbon fibre cobras with saebelt harness into rear welded ) .
Threads a good read mate
Sean
In 8l section search prawns track car to see how to fit your own seats and harnesses he has done it properly , and guy was right if you crash with wrongly fitted harnesses you will f**k yourself.
I rolled a civic at 60mph four times into a ditch upside down and they said the only thing that saved me was correctly fitted seats and harness ( carbon fibre cobras with saebelt harness into rear welded ) .
Threads a good read mate
Sean
Yeah. I've read all prawns thread. Seat mounts are car specific sparcos so not much to go wrong there. Already got side mounts for drivers seat so will swap them instead of sliders.
When it comes to harness, it will be difficult to weld in a bar behind the front seats because of rear door.
Don't really care about the gauge as it is a track car and it is there to work well not to look good. Still, with white back and white illumination it is pretty close to tqs one. Red is fine as well but a bit too dark. That said my alpine cd player has amber/orange illumination
When it comes to harness, it will be difficult to weld in a bar behind the front seats because of rear door.
Don't really care about the gauge as it is a track car and it is there to work well not to look good. Still, with white back and white illumination it is pretty close to tqs one. Red is fine as well but a bit too dark. That said my alpine cd player has amber/orange illumination
