TQS track car project - extremely slow progress
- Thread starter slepy
- Start date
Long day today.
Took me about an hour to take the front end off. Lots of rusted/stuck bolts.
Received timing belt around 2pm and took me almost 2 hours to get the water pump from tps (non existent customer service) and belts from ECP.
Managed to do the timing belt and water pump. Hopefully didn't **** anything up.
After full rotation marks were aligned so should be ok.
Additionally made extra marks on the old belt and pulley with nail polish before removing it and copied on to the new belt and these matched as well.
Will do the oil pump next week although looking at the amount of access from underneath it looks like a difficult task.
I would prefer to stick the car on ramps but then my jack isn't high enough to raise the engine
For now, car back undercover
Oh! And also got the wheels but didn't have time to unpack. Will have to wait when the car is back in one piece.
Took me about an hour to take the front end off. Lots of rusted/stuck bolts.
Received timing belt around 2pm and took me almost 2 hours to get the water pump from tps (non existent customer service) and belts from ECP.
Managed to do the timing belt and water pump. Hopefully didn't **** anything up.
After full rotation marks were aligned so should be ok.
Additionally made extra marks on the old belt and pulley with nail polish before removing it and copied on to the new belt and these matched as well.
Will do the oil pump next week although looking at the amount of access from underneath it looks like a difficult task.
I would prefer to stick the car on ramps but then my jack isn't high enough to raise the engine
For now, car back undercover
Oh! And also got the wheels but didn't have time to unpack. Will have to wait when the car is back in one piece.
Finished work late so didn't want to start on oil pump.
Fortunately, before it got dark, had time to do this:
Before:
After:
I know it needs to go lower and it will in a while.
There is quite a lot of space at the front but at the rear it is very tight and I think I
will need a spacer if I lower it.
Budget tyres but good enough to go through the MOT and probably first track day.
Happy with how it looks on these!
Fortunately, before it got dark, had time to do this:
Before:
After:
I know it needs to go lower and it will in a while.
There is quite a lot of space at the front but at the rear it is very tight and I think I
will need a spacer if I lower it.
Budget tyres but good enough to go through the MOT and probably first track day.
Happy with how it looks on these!
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Coming along nicely.
I managed to get my battery moved inside the car and powered the car up for the first time in about 2 years today
I'm sticking with 17's, mainly due to tyre prices, and i've got quite a few part-worn ~<3mm tread tyres in the shed.
I managed to get my battery moved inside the car and powered the car up for the first time in about 2 years today
I'm sticking with 17's, mainly due to tyre prices, and i've got quite a few part-worn ~<3mm tread tyres in the shed.
Haven't seen any update on yours for the last two years on srs. Time for an update?
I'm going to try to get the oil pump done tomorrow.
Went with 18" because I was looking at big brake upgrade and the popular ones will fit easier under 18s.
Yes, tyres are more expensive but difference isn't massive on camskill or tyreleader.
To be honest I thought that there will be more space at the rear but there is like 4mm from the upright, if not less.
Front looks ok at the moment. If I got 10mm hubcentric spacers only for the rear, would it affect quattro somehow?
Really want to get it for an mot this month but didn't get even one call about my civic for 2 weeks.
My plan was to have it ready for VW & Audi track day on 31st of May but it looks unlikely now.
Can't insure A4 until I sell the R and get something economical instead. And that might take some time.
I'm going to try to get the oil pump done tomorrow.
Went with 18" because I was looking at big brake upgrade and the popular ones will fit easier under 18s.
Yes, tyres are more expensive but difference isn't massive on camskill or tyreleader.
To be honest I thought that there will be more space at the rear but there is like 4mm from the upright, if not less.
Front looks ok at the moment. If I got 10mm hubcentric spacers only for the rear, would it affect quattro somehow?
Really want to get it for an mot this month but didn't get even one call about my civic for 2 weeks.
My plan was to have it ready for VW & Audi track day on 31st of May but it looks unlikely now.
Can't insure A4 until I sell the R and get something economical instead. And that might take some time.
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Bear in mind, it cant get any closer to the upright. if theres a 4mm gap it should stay as a 4mm gap, as the upright and tyre moves together.
And yeh, i really need to sort an update out!
And yeh, i really need to sort an update out!
3 mm gap on mine with no rubbing on 8.5 inch wide fitted with 235 40 18s. As long as rolling radius is the same or within 5% quattro doesn't care
A bit of a useless day today.
Lifted the engine, removed most of the bolts from the sump.
Got to two 16mm bolts (sump->gearbox), snapped 2 sockets and bent a ratchet trying to undo them and not even moved a touch.
Tried every possible option with tools but nothing helped. So, put the car back for now, done the oil and filter change, air filter and pollen. Will sort out the pump when the car has mot.
So it is back in one piece but there are couple of issues I need to sort out before the MOT.
1. Headlight washers don't work. I can't see any leak. I can hear the headlight washers working but they don't pop out
of the bumper. Any idea?
2. Side lights don't work although the bulbs are ok. Can I get the bulb holder from audi on it's own?
3. Any clue what this plug is for? While putting the front end back on, I couldn't see any place to connect it.
It comes out next to headlight wires.
It runs like new but I think I will need alternator belt tensioner as it sounds bad.
Lifted the engine, removed most of the bolts from the sump.
Got to two 16mm bolts (sump->gearbox), snapped 2 sockets and bent a ratchet trying to undo them and not even moved a touch.
Tried every possible option with tools but nothing helped. So, put the car back for now, done the oil and filter change, air filter and pollen. Will sort out the pump when the car has mot.
So it is back in one piece but there are couple of issues I need to sort out before the MOT.
1. Headlight washers don't work. I can't see any leak. I can hear the headlight washers working but they don't pop out
of the bumper. Any idea?
2. Side lights don't work although the bulbs are ok. Can I get the bulb holder from audi on it's own?
3. Any clue what this plug is for? While putting the front end back on, I couldn't see any place to connect it.
It comes out next to headlight wires.
It runs like new but I think I will need alternator belt tensioner as it sounds bad.
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They pop up with water pressure, so the pump is probably dead?
Checked fuses for the sidelights? You can buy the bulb holders from the dealer.
The plug looks like its for the AC pressure switch. I presume you've ditched the AC so it wont have anywhere to go?
Checked fuses for the sidelights? You can buy the bulb holders from the dealer.
The plug looks like its for the AC pressure switch. I presume you've ditched the AC so it wont have anywhere to go?
It is strange. I can definitely hear the sound of pump for the headlight washers. It might be dead, is there any way to check?
Plug might be for the AC but I had a look at the AC compressor and couldn't see any socket like that. It was a bit dark though so will check it later just to make sure. Yeah, all the AC now gone. Anyone needs a compressor or rad?
Yes, light fuse is fine. I think it is the bulb holder but I will check if there is power going to it at all.
Also had a spare set of d2s bulbs so had them changed. The old ones were greenish.
Plug might be for the AC but I had a look at the AC compressor and couldn't see any socket like that. It was a bit dark though so will check it later just to make sure. Yeah, all the AC now gone. Anyone needs a compressor or rad?
Yes, light fuse is fine. I think it is the bulb holder but I will check if there is power going to it at all.
Also had a spare set of d2s bulbs so had them changed. The old ones were greenish.
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the plug goes onto the condenser radiator, not the compressor.
If they're factory xenons they use a horrible H6W bulbholder that goes brittle and crumbles.
You can either get replacement h6w bulbholders (you need to order them for a TT, they arent listed for the B5) or, use the standard w5w wedge bulbholder that non-xenon cars use.
If they're factory xenons they use a horrible H6W bulbholder that goes brittle and crumbles.
You can either get replacement h6w bulbholders (you need to order them for a TT, they arent listed for the B5) or, use the standard w5w wedge bulbholder that non-xenon cars use.
Theres two pumps one for windscreen and one for headlights, the headlight one normally corrodes from the inside out and cracks the housing.
Ac pressure switch is just below o/s front bumper support. Obviously no longer needed if you have ditched it all.
Ac pressure switch is just below o/s front bumper support. Obviously no longer needed if you have ditched it all.
That would explain why I haven't found it on the compressor
Yes. Xenons are factory. W5W is the newer type of bulb without the metal bit, right? So, b5's without xenons have them?
When I use washers,I can hear the windscreen pump first and then the headlight one. If the pump is gone, would it make any sound at all? If it is dead,can I get the pump on its own?
Yes. Xenons are factory. W5W is the newer type of bulb without the metal bit, right? So, b5's without xenons have them?
When I use washers,I can hear the windscreen pump first and then the headlight one. If the pump is gone, would it make any sound at all? If it is dead,can I get the pump on its own?
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i'm not sure. Why not unhook the water pipe to the washers and see if the pump works? Theres a joint just above the nearside grille, so you can remove the bumper, disconnect it there and see?
yeh non-xenon B5 facelifts use W5W capless bulbs. They used the H6W on the Xenon cars as they look a bit whiter.
yeh non-xenon B5 facelifts use W5W capless bulbs. They used the H6W on the Xenon cars as they look a bit whiter.
Yeah there about £20 off ebay, try taking the pipe connection off at the n/s and blow out all the pipe work, also if the front end is stripped have a look at the pump see if it looks ok and not swelled up and cracked.
The bulb holders are about £9+vat each iirc
Aren't the BA9S bulbs better in terms of light compared to the W5W ?? thought they were halogen ??
Oh and the car looks good on those rims !!
The bulb holders are about £9+vat each iirc
Aren't the BA9S bulbs better in terms of light compared to the W5W ?? thought they were halogen ??
Oh and the car looks good on those rims !!
Thanks guys.
I believe I have a set of led w5w bulbs somewhere still from my b6 so I might get these. Just need to use someone else number plate to order from dealer.
Will disconnect the pipe and see if the pump works. Have put the front end back on yesterday...
I believe I have a set of led w5w bulbs somewhere still from my b6 so I might get these. Just need to use someone else number plate to order from dealer.
Will disconnect the pipe and see if the pump works. Have put the front end back on yesterday...
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OK, I've put a deposit yesterday for a set of 18Z brembos to go with ML55 rotors.
Now, the guy who is sorting them out for me, came back today saying that I should get 17Z instead because
they would be better for track application.
These are his words:
"1. 18z has issues with phenolic pistons. They just brake. 17z has steel pistons.
2. 17z has bigger pistons and btakes better.
3. Everything is same pads, mounting brackets, visually they're same.
Only difference is in the disk size they're able to take with 18z you can go like 380mm. But otherwise is pointless 17z are better. "
I've spent days on researching 18Z so am a bit confused now.
Any advise?
Now, the guy who is sorting them out for me, came back today saying that I should get 17Z instead because
they would be better for track application.
These are his words:
"1. 18z has issues with phenolic pistons. They just brake. 17z has steel pistons.
2. 17z has bigger pistons and btakes better.
3. Everything is same pads, mounting brackets, visually they're same.
Only difference is in the disk size they're able to take with 18z you can go like 380mm. But otherwise is pointless 17z are better. "
I've spent days on researching 18Z so am a bit confused now.
Any advise?
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The 17Z pistons are larger, this is true, however they're also most likely a bit too large for the master cylinder on the B5.
Never heard of an issue with pistons on the 18Z's, and the ML55 disk is tried and tested.
If it were me, i'd get out and drive the thing.
Never heard of an issue with pistons on the 18Z's, and the ML55 disk is tried and tested.
If it were me, i'd get out and drive the thing.
Yeap. In the end I went for 18Z.
Also got some more bits which should be in post tuesday.
B6 uprights, rs4 polybushed lower control arms, caliper bolting kit as well.
Problem is I can't insure it before selling civic because will be switching cars on my policy. Took it for a run around the house last night when all neighbours were asleep. There might be an issue with a first gear... Not something i was looking for to be honest. Whines loudly in first and quietens down in second. Didnt have a chance to drive it in higher gears yet!
Also got some more bits which should be in post tuesday.
B6 uprights, rs4 polybushed lower control arms, caliper bolting kit as well.
Problem is I can't insure it before selling civic because will be switching cars on my policy. Took it for a run around the house last night when all neighbours were asleep. There might be an issue with a first gear... Not something i was looking for to be honest. Whines loudly in first and quietens down in second. Didnt have a chance to drive it in higher gears yet!
Last edited:
Little update.
Replaced the sidelight bulb holders and both lights now work with nice new LEDs.
Also new headlight washer pump fitted and washers are alive!
The old pump didn't look bad until I pulled it out and it split in to two pieces.
Now, while having the wheel off, I've noticed that the rubber bit on tie rod end is cracked.
Is it an mot failure?
Replaced the sidelight bulb holders and both lights now work with nice new LEDs.
Also new headlight washer pump fitted and washers are alive!
The old pump didn't look bad until I pulled it out and it split in to two pieces.
Now, while having the wheel off, I've noticed that the rubber bit on tie rod end is cracked.
Is it an mot failure?
If its cracked/perished they may advise it depends on how stuck up the tester is as they may fail it, but should only fail if its split and leaking grease or dried out.
foursprungdugtechnique
Registered User
Nut on ball joint end and locking nut (probably seized) on the inner end. Once the inner nut is freed the tie rod end should unscrew (count the turns) and replace the new one with same number of turns.
My RS4 control arms and B6 uprights arrived today.
Was happy to see that uprights came with top arms ***!
So now need to remove both pinch bolts!
One of the bolt heads is completely screwed so I will have to cut it off.
Oh fun. Ordered some plusgas and will attack it next week.
Was happy to see that uprights came with top arms ***!
So now need to remove both pinch bolts!
One of the bolt heads is completely screwed so I will have to cut it off.
Oh fun. Ordered some plusgas and will attack it next week.
If your attacking it next week leave it submerged in oil or some lubricant to give abit of a nudge before you attack it !!
Hot air gun or similar is fine. Do not try and open the slot to free it. It will break...... aluminium expands more than the steel. So heat a bit the plus gas the crap out of it. You'll see it rinse the crud. Rinse n repeat
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Theres a couple methods you can use.
One thats worked for me a few times is to simply snap off the head, then TIGHTEN the nut. The nut slowly advances along the thread and draws the bolt out. You can only go so far before you run out of thread, but at that point just remove the nut, pack it up with washers and repeat.
One thats worked for me a few times is to simply snap off the head, then TIGHTEN the nut. The nut slowly advances along the thread and draws the bolt out. You can only go so far before you run out of thread, but at that point just remove the nut, pack it up with washers and repeat.
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The bolts are just standard grade 8.8 M10's, you need a pair of M10 x 100mm.
I got some bright zinc ones off ebay for a couple quid.
For the nuts you just need a couple flanged nylocs.
I got some bright zinc ones off ebay for a couple quid.
For the nuts you just need a couple flanged nylocs.
