Chris NottAH Fabrications
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  1. #1
    Chriscooke's Avatar
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    Whats needed for 220/250/275+bhp on a 1.8t qts

    I've had a quick read through the sticky thread but tbh it's a lot of info to digest.

    Most cars that I have modified have staged routes which give lists of what mods are needed for what power although I am yet to see such a list for these cars

    What would I need to do to get a 1.8t QTS to the power figures below including mods to the power train, handling, brakes etc with approximate costs if possible.

    200bhp

    220bhp

    250bhp

    275bhp+

    What health checks are worth doing to make sure the engine is running as it should before modifying begins?

    I'm just weighing up options as i'm getting a bit bored with the lack of power from my own car.

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  3. #2
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    First thing needed is a bigger turbo, ported or high flow manifold, larger injectors and MAF housing, FMIC, decat and exhaust system then a tune !! Also might be a good idea to do the ICM delete and 4 pin coil packs.

    Then once you have the power squeezed out of the setup youll need a clutch/flywheel to handle the power !!

    You would also need to put some rods in and whilst your doing the rods new piston rings, rod/crank bearings and of course replace the oil pump and the larger oil filter.

    Brakes - 312mm fronts and 256mm S4 rears and braided hoses would be a good setup !!

    And possibly uprate all your mounts and rear anti-roll bar !!
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  4. #3
    Chriscooke's Avatar
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    So it would be cheaper to swap to an s4 in reality. Are the bottom ends that soft? I'd of hoped to see 300ish on a standard bottom end (I may be spoilt with my nissans engine).

    I may have to go with a simple remap but that still only sees the car at 200bhp tops does it not?

    I really was hoping the engine would be more tuneable with only bolt on parts

    What's an icm delete?

  5. #4
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    Icm delete deletes the ignition control module and allows for fitment of the later 4 pin D shape coil packs, which give a better spark and also you can increase the gap from 0.38 to 0.40 when running 2.0T coils !! Also helps when you have a missfire under boost as the coil are expensive the later ones arent you can pick a full setup for less than £100 !!

    Few picks -









    And finished off -

    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  6. #5
    Chriscooke's Avatar
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    Thanks for taking the time to explain that. I'm pretty well versed with the nissan sr20det engine (believe it or not some of the parts are interchangeable) but am clueless with the Audi lump.

    What is the max safe/reliable power with the above mods and an uprated turbo/decat (etc?) before you need to mess around with internals roughly or is it a basic remap and make done with it?

  7. #6
    Broken Byzan's Avatar
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    The AJL engine is pretty hardy, but i'd deffo not push it past high 200's without rods. The rest of the components are pretty resilient. Perhaps rob teh turbo from the S15 and nail that on for that figure once custom mapped with supporting mods.

    these mods include, free flowing exhaust , CAT and decent downpipe. FMIC and 63mm pipework, probably renew the clutch as I am sure it will then slip.

    Power is directly related to budget IMHO

    Hence mine being stalled at mid 300's. The engine can do so much more, but the turbo is maxed out and I no longer have the money to just replace

  8. #7
    Chriscooke's Avatar
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    I could get a t28 for not a lot of money from people I know which should flow a reasonable amount I'd of thought. It can do just over 300bhp on the nissan sr. A t28r which is what some s15's use is a little more expensive.

    You can also get Chinese copies of the gt2871r which some seem to have a reasonable amount of luck with and i've heard are good with this engine?(I don't like the idea myself though). I'm guessing you don't get off the shelf manifolds for the gt28 fitment turbo either?

    If i'm honest 220-250bhp would be enough for a daily :nod: Also how hard is it to change the clutch on a quattro and do you have an recomendations? Do you need a new flywheel also?

  9. #8
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    Clutch is fairly easy to do (well on a ramp never done one on my back) just drop the exhaust from the flexi, then drop prop off the box along with the shafts, remove selector rod, slave cylinder, then g/box bolts and its out !!
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  10. #9
    6th Gear

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bradderz_1988 View Post
    Clutch is fairly easy to do (well on a ramp never done one on my back) just drop the exhaust from the flexi, then drop prop off the box along with the shafts, remove selector rod, slave cylinder, then g/box bolts and its out !!
    Or you can take the engine out, much easier than wrestling the box under the car...






    FOR SALE:
    -Golf mk 5/audi a3 1.6 FSI fuel pump, brand new genuine part boxed + seals
    -audi a3 (1998 to 2003) genuine clutch slave cylinder to fit 1.6 engines BRAND NEW
    -Rear bush press tool to fit new rear axle bushes on Golf Mk3/4, Audi a3/S3, Seat Leon/Toledo, Skoda Octavia mk 1/2 used once

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bradderz_1988 View Post
    Clutch is fairly easy to do (well on a ramp never done one on my back) just drop the exhaust from the flexi, then drop prop off the box along with the shafts, remove selector rod, slave cylinder, then g/box bolts and its out !!
    Or you can take the engine out, much easier than wrestling the box under the car...






    FOR SALE:
    -Golf mk 5/audi a3 1.6 FSI fuel pump, brand new genuine part boxed + seals
    -audi a3 (1998 to 2003) genuine clutch slave cylinder to fit 1.6 engines BRAND NEW
    -Rear bush press tool to fit new rear axle bushes on Golf Mk3/4, Audi a3/S3, Seat Leon/Toledo, Skoda Octavia mk 1/2 used once

  12. #11
    crazy88's Avatar
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    There was me assuming that your post would be about the 2.5tdi engine, ha!

    Out of interest, how quick can you pull an engine from a car Chris? Not that mine needs anything, i'm just wondering.


  13. #12
    Broken Byzan's Avatar
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    Clutch removal technique depends on tools available, most have jacks and stands, some have ramps, but very few have an engine crane. ( i wish i did)

  14. #13
    6th Gear

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    Quote Originally Posted by crazy88 View Post
    There was me assuming that your post would be about the 2.5tdi engine, ha!

    Out of interest, how quick can you pull an engine from a car Chris? Not that mine needs anything, i'm just wondering.
    6-7 hours to fit the clutch by removing the engine, i have done loads so i can get it off fairly cleanly + you get to replenish the fluids (PAS fluid, antifreeze) as well. Done a passat gearbox on my own a few weeks ago, never again ! Now i have a heated garage with ramp i can do it by taking the box off, however it's easy when you have an extra pair of hands, even with a gearbox jack, working on your own it's rather fiddly !
    FOR SALE:
    -Golf mk 5/audi a3 1.6 FSI fuel pump, brand new genuine part boxed + seals
    -audi a3 (1998 to 2003) genuine clutch slave cylinder to fit 1.6 engines BRAND NEW
    -Rear bush press tool to fit new rear axle bushes on Golf Mk3/4, Audi a3/S3, Seat Leon/Toledo, Skoda Octavia mk 1/2 used once

 

 

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