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Thread: Front abs sensor

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    Front abs sensor

    Does anyone know how to remove a front abs sensor as mine won't budge

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    spartacus 68's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bouncer117 View Post
    Does anyone know how to remove a front abs sensor as mine won't budge
    Assuming its faulty and you're replacing, you may end up having to drill it out. I'd remove the hub so there's no chance of damaging the ABS reluctor ring.
    2002 A2 1.4 TDi SE (125k)
    2001 A4 2.5 TDi Avant Quattro Sport (155k)
    1995 80 TDi Avant SE (175k) Sold

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    Yes sensor is faulty. Is there no way without taking the hub off?

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    spartacus 68's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bouncer117 View Post
    Yes sensor is faulty. Is there no way without taking the hub off?
    Chances are it will disintegrate once you start to work on it. The hub is easy enough to remove. You can release the hub nut, then the splined bolts on the driveshaft (transmission). Turn the steering wheel and you should be able to drop the drive shaft down and out. That will give you peace of mind that no debris gets onto the reluctor ring, etc. Use a little grease in the aperture when fitting the new sensor.
    2002 A2 1.4 TDi SE (125k)
    2001 A4 2.5 TDi Avant Quattro Sport (155k)
    1995 80 TDi Avant SE (175k) Sold

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    Blue_Thunder's Avatar
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    Lots of Plus Gas, a small pry bar and a set of mole grips.
    Mo power, mo problems

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    I take it I need to remove the caliper and disc before spraying?

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    Quote Originally Posted by spartacus 68 View Post
    Chances are it will disintegrate once you start to work on it. The hub is easy enough to remove. You can release the hub nut, then the splined bolts on the driveshaft (transmission). Turn the steering wheel and you should be able to drop the drive shaft down and out. That will give you peace of mind that no debris gets onto the reluctor ring, etc. Use a little grease in the aperture when fitting the new sensor.
    Does it matter which direction the steering wheel is turned?

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    spartacus 68's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bouncer117 View Post
    Does it matter which direction the steering wheel is turned?
    Shouldn't do. From memory if it was the driver's side, I'd probably turn the steering towards kerbside. Incidentally, if you go down this route, renew the hub nut. These are normally renewed as part of the CV boot, given the torque you need to use to shift it. You'll probably need an extension pipe on a 1/2 ratchet drive. Could kill two birds with one stone, does CV boot need done? Any cracks are an MOT fail.

    I used to recommend GKN driveline kits, but they wear prematurely after a couple of years. A genuine Audi boot is probably better.
    2002 A2 1.4 TDi SE (125k)
    2001 A4 2.5 TDi Avant Quattro Sport (155k)
    1995 80 TDi Avant SE (175k) Sold

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    The boot looks quite fresh but I will give it a closer look while im there

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    Will I be able to release the hub nut with the front end up on stands. Just put a couple of bolts back in and get someone on the breaks?

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    spartacus 68's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bouncer117 View Post
    Will I be able to release the hub nut with the front end up on stands. Just put a couple of bolts back in and get someone on the breaks?
    No, do this with the wheel on the ground. Take the alloy wheel cover off (covering the wheel bolts) and get an impact hex socket on it with a 1/2 ratchet drive bar. Some hub nuts are Allen bolt variety. If that's the case - then I can recommend Laser tools which are excellent. I use a length of scaffold tube on the bar for leverage.

    More details here: AudiWorld Tech Articles

    Incidentally - there's no need to touch the strut pinch bolt, turning the wheel works. Another tip - don't hit the CV joint with a steel hammer to remove it from the driveshaft, only ever use a rubber mallet.
    2002 A2 1.4 TDi SE (125k)
    2001 A4 2.5 TDi Avant Quattro Sport (155k)
    1995 80 TDi Avant SE (175k) Sold

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    Ok ill giv it a go thanks

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    Just had a look at the boots they're not split but starting to crack a bit you recon they changing?

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    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    If there cracking then they havent got long left !!

    the sensor will have a rubber boot, pry this upwards and spray WD down then use some pliers and work the sensor turning it back and forth then gradually pull out from the hub use more WD if necessary !!
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F4 Kit - THS Decat - Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
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    i done mine last week had to smash it to bits then burn the inner bit that was left out so you dont damage the hole thats the last thing you want to do

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    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    The uprights have a brass insert so as long as you dont go overkill and butcher the upright you can just clean things up and fit a new brass insert !
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F4 Kit - THS Decat - Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do - F21 Upgrade - 3" Maf/Saab red Injectors
    WANTED : Cheap 02/52 Passat 1.8T AWT Manual

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    Quote Originally Posted by spartacus 68 View Post
    No, do this with the wheel on the ground. Take the alloy wheel cover off (covering the wheel bolts) and get an impact hex socket on it with a 1/2 ratchet drive bar. Some hub nuts are Allen bolt variety. If that's the case - then I can recommend Laser tools which are excellent. I use a length of scaffold tube on the bar for leverage.

    More details here: AudiWorld Tech Articles

    Incidentally - there's no need to touch the strut pinch bolt, turning the wheel works. Another tip - don't hit the CV joint with a steel hammer to remove it from the driveshaft, only ever use a rubber mallet.
    Do I need to remove the hub completely or just drop the driveshaft out?

  19. #18
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    Id say you only need to remove the wheel and maybe the brake discfor a little more room !! If you be patient and dont get frustrated and start to snap/hammer things then you can gently work it out with some WD and maybe abit of oil/diesel !!
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F4 Kit - THS Decat - Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do - F21 Upgrade - 3" Maf/Saab red Injectors
    WANTED : Cheap 02/52 Passat 1.8T AWT Manual

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    Yer I have tried that and im getting no movement at all

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    Do I need to replace the hub bolt?

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    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    It is recommended yes as its a stretch bolt iirc
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F4 Kit - THS Decat - Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do - F21 Upgrade - 3" Maf/Saab red Injectors
    WANTED : Cheap 02/52 Passat 1.8T AWT Manual

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    Ok do you know where I could get one on its own? I can only find them as part of boot, joint or bearing kits and although the boots could probably do with changing I don't have the time to do them at the moment

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    spartacus 68's Avatar
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    Remove the brake carrier, caliper and disc and secure on wire support or bungee cord. You just need to undo driveshaft splined bolts and hub nut, not the hub itself.
    bouncer117 likes this.
    2002 A2 1.4 TDi SE (125k)
    2001 A4 2.5 TDi Avant Quattro Sport (155k)
    1995 80 TDi Avant SE (175k) Sold

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    spartacus 68's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bouncer117 View Post
    Ok do you know where I could get one on its own? I can only find them as part of boot, joint or bearing kits and although the boots could probably do with changing I don't have the time to do them at the moment
    The GKN kits include everything. In my experience they're good for 2-3 years. Audi boots are better. Changing the boot on the CV joint is going to add another hour tops. Well worth it if you're removing brake components and driveshaft. Means everything will be sweet as a nut once you remove ABS sensor. Other main thing is that once CV boot splits (and it will) and normally when you least expect it, the CV gets contaminated (loss of grease and grit gets in) and you'll end up having to replace the CV too.
    2002 A2 1.4 TDi SE (125k)
    2001 A4 2.5 TDi Avant Quattro Sport (155k)
    1995 80 TDi Avant SE (175k) Sold

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    I was thinking this but what I thought was going to be a 15 min job on Saturday is stil ongoing, knowing my luck at the min ill take it apart and find that the joint needs replacing too

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    Do I need to take the caliper off aswell? Sorry for asking so many questions but this is the 1st proper job I have done on a car

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    spartacus 68's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bouncer117 View Post
    Do I need to take the caliper off aswell? Sorry for asking so many questions but this is the 1st proper job I have done on a car
    Yes, I would.
    2002 A2 1.4 TDi SE (125k)
    2001 A4 2.5 TDi Avant Quattro Sport (155k)
    1995 80 TDi Avant SE (175k) Sold

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    All done now. Thanks for all the help and advice. Had to cut the end of the sensor off then knock it through to the inside after removing the driveshaft then because only the middle came out slowy chip the case of the sensor and the copper cage out. Also changed the cv boot which luckily was hassel free. Thanks again everyone
    spartacus 68 likes this.

 

 

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