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Thread: How to adjust actuator pressure !!

  1. #1
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
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    How to adjust actuator pressure !!

    Had a look online but cant really find anything, mines currently set at 8 psi iirc so want to crank it up to 12 psi when i swap to the F21 and 3" MAF/Saab reds.

    so how do i set to 12psi and get the preload correct ??
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

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  3. #2
    Blue_Thunder's Avatar
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    Why would you want to increase the wastegate pressure?
    Mo power, mo problems

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    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
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    Because il be running with the N75 disconnected, so want to run 12psi actuator pressure to accomadate the 3" maf and saab reds to get around 220-230hp on the stock ecu !
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

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    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Adjust the preload on the Actuator by shortening the rod. Dont go too far though, as you'll stop the gate opening fully.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  6. #5
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
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    Well ive just checked FT's website and the actuator is a 5-10psi high lift actuator so dont think im going to get 12psi out of it

    Do you reckon that 10psi will be enough ??
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  7. #6
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
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    Spoke to doug @ FT to see what pressure can be had from the wastegate and he has said to remove the n75 completely but leave the connection wired in and pipe from comp housing straight to the WG but isnt this just the same as disconnecting it ?? Why would it matter if its still connected ??
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  8. #7
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Unplugging the N75 does the same thing as what hes described, and is how mines setup.

    Speak to beach buggy turbos about getting yourself a 12psi actuator, or just set yours to 10, which should be enough? I get somewhere between 10 and 12 from my BBT actuator.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  9. #8
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
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    Cheers will set it to 10 and see how it goes, would you say a MBC is a bad idea and would cause boost spikes ??
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  10. #9
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Just leave it on actuator until its tuned, no point risking the whole motor for the sake of a couple extra psi in a pikey manner.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  11. #10
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
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    Doug just emailed back and said you can go as high as 14psi so i should be good to go with 12psi

    and i thought you'd of said that aragorn lol
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  12. #11
    Neutral

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    Dont see any problems with an MBC myself. I and many others have them on an MR2 and they wok just fine and are not a 'pikey' solution. They are infact better than *******ising the rod as they will also remove wastegate creap.

  13. #12
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    So if mine runs 18psi then is something wrong or remapped?

  14. #13
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
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    It will be remapped at 18 stock is around 12-14psi peak with a steady 10psi towards the end of the rev range !! So id say yours is mapped !!
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  15. #14
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    yer sound about right

  16. #15
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
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    Reading up on this to adjust the opening pressure do i need to adjust the rod so that when i get my desired pressure the penny valve just about 'cracks' so it can be moved slightly and also check when fully open the clearance from the port. Also how will i go about preload or is that basically what im doing when checking for it to 'crack' ??

    as looking around they do 3 full turns of the adjustment nut so do i set to 12psi until it cracks then do 3 full turns backing off the adjustments nut ??
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  17. #16
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    they way you're ment to do it is with a airline and a accurate psi meter hooked up to the actuator, and then increase till you get the penny valve to move, then adjust actuator and test again.

    at least thats the way i have been shown/told

  18. #17
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
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    Got a mity vac at work so should be good or ill just disconnect my boost gauge and rig something up with an airline blower

    I just want to get it right first time as i dont fancy doing it all again lol

    im under the impression that when you get the valve to crack at your desired pressure that you let off the adjustment 3 full turns so that when its fully open that will be the correct pressure as when the boost drops off a little the arm doesnt close shut and gives erratic boost if that makes any sense ??
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  19. #18
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    it makes to me, i did feel like saying theres a step im missing but i have no idea ive never done it, only watched someone do it

  20. #19
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    you wind up the preload till it cracks at the right/desired pressure assuming you have enough travel to allow the arm to still open fully. Luckily you have dumb management so it probably won't notice the added boost lol

  21. #20
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Quote Originally Posted by HibiscusS4 View Post
    Dont see any problems with an MBC myself. I and many others have them on an MR2 and they wok just fine and are not a 'pikey' solution. They are infact better than *******ising the rod as they will also remove wastegate creap.
    Its a pikey solution when the engines running a stock map with massive injectors and oversize maf with the timing away to fk...

    Which was my point. Its not mapped properly, so keep things as tame as possible until it is. Not that specifically the MBC is pikey.

    With a 12psi actuator, your stuck there, at 12psi. With an MBC you've then got the ability to go "just a little more"...

    And once the engines tuned, the MBC is not required because the N75 will be handling the boost control properly anyway.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  22. #21
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bradderz_1988 View Post
    Got a mity vac at work so should be good or ill just disconnect my boost gauge and rig something up with an airline blower

    I just want to get it right first time as i dont fancy doing it all again lol

    im under the impression that when you get the valve to crack at your desired pressure that you let off the adjustment 3 full turns so that when its fully open that will be the correct pressure as when the boost drops off a little the arm doesnt close shut and gives erratic boost if that makes any sense ??
    As mark says, i'd be setting it so it cracks a little under 12psi, and make sure you have enough travel left in the arm for the gate to fully open. If the gate cant fully open, it'll be unable to control the boost properly at the top end and you'll get creep. It might even be that this wont happen at 12psi, but does happen once tuned with the extra airflow, so its undesirable.
    ScottD3 likes this.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  23. #22
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aragorn View Post
    As mark says, i'd be setting it so it cracks a little under 12psi, and make sure you have enough travel left in the arm for the gate to fully open. If the gate cant fully open, it'll be unable to control the boost properly at the top end and you'll get creep. It might even be that this wont happen at 12psi, but does happen once tuned with the extra airflow, so its undesirable.
    what would you say is enough travel ?? Is there any measurements to go off ??
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  24. #23
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    id like to give my actuator a bit more turn so i can get a little more curve on the first part of my boost curve, but one bolt in the turbo feels like its going to snap, so i done it back up lol

  25. #24
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    just make sure it opens fully.

    If you take the actuator off, you can feel the travel and where the "fully open" position is. just make sure you can still reach that position once its wound up.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  26. #25
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aragorn View Post
    just make sure it opens fully.

    If you take the actuator off, you can feel the travel and where the "fully open" position is. just make sure you can still reach that position once its wound up.
    when you mean 'fully open' is that when you get the 'pop' when the rod is extended fully and cant physical extend out any further ??
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  27. #26
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    The arm swings about 45degrees ish, then bottoms out on the casting.

    The rod on the actuator will only push out so far, and as you increase the preload, you shorted how far out the rod can push.

    You want to make sure the rod still has enough travel left to get the gate fully open. I guess you should be able to see this by simply raising the pressure to the actuator above 12psi, and ensuring the gate goes to the fully open position?

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


 

 

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