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Thread: Facelift Clocks in Pre-Facelift

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    Facelift Clocks in Pre-Facelift

    Almost two years ago I started this thread A small project but its full of my questions and some random ramblings by myself.
    So I thought its about time I cleaned it up and made an attempt to document it properly.


    The difference between PFL (Prefacelift) and FL (Facelift) clocks are not massive but its enough to want me to change.

    On the Face:
    FL clocks have a digital clock with date. PFL have a analogue clock.
    FL clocks have white dial numbers. PFL are all read.
    FL clocks are able to display which door, boot or bonnet is open. PFL can't.
    FL clocks will display satnav directions. PFL can't

    On the back. Mainly the plug:
    FL clocks use a blue, green and grey plug all with 32 pins. PFL clocks use a Red, green and blue plug.
    FL clocks have the option to use a radio controls clock. PFL clocks don't.

    Communication/function:
    FL clocks has can bus and uses it. PFL clocks don't.
    FL clocks lights will turn on when the lights are on. PFL clock lights are on all the time.
    FL clocks has a oil level warning. PFL clocks don't.

    I think that's the basic changed between the two.


    To fit FL clocks in your car you need several tools, some from off the top of my head are as follow:
    Torx screw driver to remove the clocks.
    VCDS and Vag tacho/commander type software or a friendly lock smith bloke who can program keys, match your miles and do a bit of coding later on.
    a selection of spanners, sockets and such to remove the sump.
    Soldering iron, wire strippers, cables and other such electrical wiring items.

    With tools together you need to get your parts.

    First you need your FL clocks.


    A sump that will fit your car with the oil level sensor hole.




    A level sensor with plug


    Depending on how you want to wire your FL clocks in your car your got two options.
    You can either go and head and wire the new grey plug in and reroute all cables straight away or make an adaptor loom like I used.


    Personally I recommend going down the adaptor loom route. it will take a bit more time cause you got to make it but its great for testing and if needed you can unplug the new clocks and plug your original ones in with out the car being immobile plug you get a better understanding of the wiring changes that will be needed.
    This route is also a pain cause you got to get a set of PFL clocks and strip the plugs out.

    Like this:








    What ever route you take you will need to match the wirings up from PFL cluster to FL cluster.
    olds_kool likes this.

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  3. #2
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    Pin assignment at multi-pin connectors on instrument cluster - vehicles from model year 1998
    Multi-pin connector, 32-pin, blue
    1 - Terminal 15
    2 - Turn signal (right-side)
    3 - Speedometer output 1
    4 - Not used
    5 - Fuel gauge sender
    6 - Airbag
    7 - Terminal 31 (sensor earth)
    8 - Coolant temperature
    9 - Terminal 31 (load earth)
    10 - Oil pressure switch
    11 - Engine speed signal
    12 - Terminal 61
    13 - Glow period warning lamp or CAT
    14 - Self-levelling suspension
    15 - Terminal 58d
    16 - Trailer turn signal / fault in engine electrical system
    17 - Main beams
    18 - Turn signal (left-side)
    19 - ABS
    20 - Terminal 58s
    21 - Door contact, driver's side
    22 - Coolant level low
    23 - Terminal 30
    24 - Terminal 31 (load earth)
    25 - K wire
    26 - Right parking light
    27 - Left parking light
    28 - Speedometer input
    29 - Brake fluid level/pressure
    30 - S contact
    31 - Belt buckle
    32 - ESP
    Multi-pin connector, 32-pin, green
    1 - Not used
    2 - Transponder 1
    3 - Not used
    4 - Immobilizer
    5 - W wire
    6 - Boot lid/tailgate (Lowline version only)
    7 - Brake pads (Highline version only)
    8 - Not used
    9 - Not used
    10 - Fuel tank warning output signal for engine control unit (only on 6-cylinder TDI and on export versions for USA)
    11 - Standing time output
    12 - Air conditioner shut-off
    13 - Handbrake
    14 - Electronic throttle
    15 - Parking lights
    16 - Not used
    17 - Transponder 2
    18 - Not used
    19 - Not used
    20 - Not used
    21 - Oil temperature
    22 - Not used
    23 - Not used
    24 - Not used
    25 - Not used
    26 - Not used
    27 - Not used
    28 - Not used
    29 - Terminal 58d (external dimmer potentiometer)
    30 - Speedometer output 2
    31 - Not used
    32 - Not used
    Multi-pin connector, 20-pin, red
    1 - Fuel consumption signal
    2 - Not used
    3 - Not used
    4 - Not used
    5 - Ambient temperature
    6 - Selector lever position indicator
    7 - Not used
    8 - Not used
    9 - Washer fluid low
    10 - Hydraulic pressure
    11 - On-board computer reset
    12 - Clock signal for radio frequency display
    13 - Data signal for radio frequency display
    14 - On-board computer, left
    15 - Enable signal for radio frequency display
    16 - Tail lights / dipped beams (bulb monitor)
    17 - Glow plug relay (on TDI engines the low-voltage monitor in the instrument cluster is disabled while the glow plugs are activated)
    18 - On-board computer, right
    19 - Brake light
    20 - Not used

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    Pin assignment at multi-pin connectors on instrument cluster (2000my)
    Multi-pin connector, 32-pin, blue
    1 - Terminal 15
    2 - Brake pad wear
    3 - Speedometer (output 1)
    4 - Not used
    5 - Fuel gauge sender
    6 - Fuel tank warning OBD 2
    7 - Terminal 31 (sensor earth)
    8 - Coolant temperature
    9 - Terminal 31 (load earth)
    10 - Oil pressure 2 (high)
    11 - Engine speed signal
    12 - Air conditioner shut-off
    13 - Electronic throttle / glow period warning lamp
    14 - Self-levelling suspension
    15 - Terminal 58d
    16 - Turn signal (trailer)
    17 - Main beams
    18 - Turn signal (left-side)
    19 - Not used
    20 - Terminal 58s
    21 - Driver's door contact
    22 - Coolant level low
    23 - Terminal 30
    24 - Terminal 31 (load earth)
    25 - Fuel consumption signal
    26 - Right parking light
    27 - Left parking light
    28 - Speedometer input
    29 - Brake
    30 - S contact
    31 - Speedometer (output 2)
    32 - ESP/ASR (TCS)
    Multi-pin connector, 32-pin, green
    1 - Door contact (all doors)
    2 - Transponder 1
    3 - Not used
    4 - Not used
    5 - W wire
    6 - Rear lid
    7 - Turn signal (right-side)
    8 - Not used
    9 - Not used
    10 - Airbag
    11 - Standing time output
    12 - Terminal 61/charge warning
    13 - Parking brake / BRAKE
    14 - CHECK
    15 - Oil level / oil temperature
    16 - Not used
    17 - Transponder 2
    18 - CAN high speed, power train (+)
    19 - CAN high speed, power train (–)
    20 - CAN high speed, power train (screening)
    21 - ABS
    22 - CAN low speed, convenience (+)
    23 - CAN low speed, convenience (–)
    24 - CAN low speed, convenience (screening)
    25 - Bonnet
    26 - Not used
    27 - Belt buckle
    28 - K wire
    29 - Ambient temperature input
    30 - Not used
    31 - Selector lever display
    32 - Not used
    Multi-pin connector, 32-pin, grey
    1 - Menu switch (menu)
    2 - Menu switch (out A)
    3 - Menu switch (out B)
    4 - Menu switch (enter)
    5 - CAN high speed, display (+)
    6 - CAN high speed, display (–)
    7 - CAN high speed, display (screening)
    8 - Passenger's door contact
    9 - Door contact, rear right
    10 - Door contact, rear left
    11 - Enable
    12 - Clock
    13 - Data
    14 - Brake light
    15 - Washer fluid level
    16 - Tail lights / dipped beams
    17 - On-board computer, left
    18 - On-board computer, right
    19 - On-board computer reset
    20 - Not used
    21 - Not used
    22 - Not used
    23 - Control group 1, Navigation system
    24 - Control group 2, Navigation system
    25 - Control group, Telematics
    26 - Not used
    27 - Not used
    28 - Not used
    29 - Not used
    30 - Not used
    31 - Not used
    32 - Not used
    Multi-pin connector, 4-pin, black, for radio-controlled clock
    1 - Radio-controlled clock signal (data)
    2 - Radio-controlled clock 5V
    3 - Not used
    4 - Radio-controlled clock earth

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  5. #4
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    Once you've sat down and sort your loom out or made the adaptor you also need to the fit the sump with oil level sensor and route that back to where the clocks are.
    Its just 3 cables, power, earth and signal.

    With all that done, its time to sit down and do some programming to get your keys working and your rev counter.


    First off you need the SKC code for your new clocks. You can do this if you or a mate has VAG tacho or VAG commander.

    When you got the SKC you can follow these instructions.
    Key Matching

    Prerequisites:

    • While adapting each key, make sure to place the other keys away from the ignition lock (reader coil). The passenger seat is an adequate place.
    • You must have all of the keys you intend to be able to use, including the valet key if you have one.
    • Battery voltage at least 12.5 V.

    [Select]
    [17 - Instruments]
    [Login - 11]

    • 4-digit PIN
      • Enter zero followed by the 4-digit PIN. For example, if your PIN is 1234, enter 01234.
      • [Do It!]

    [Adaptation - 10]
    Enter 21 in "Channel Number".
    [Read]
    The "Stored Value" is the number of keys currently matched.
    Enter a "new value" corresponding to the total number of keys to be matched, including any existing keys.
    Any old keys are automatically being cleared. All keys, including existing keys, must be matched at the same time.
    [Save]
    [Done, Go Back]
    [Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

    • Repeat the following steps until all Keys have been matched:
      • Switch Ignition OFF and remove Key.
      • Insert the next Key and switch Ignition ON.
      • The Immobilizer Warning Light will light up for ~2 seconds, wait until it goes out, indicating that the key has been matched.
    Note: The above steps must be completed within 60 seconds after saving the Adaptation!

    That should get your key coded to your cluster and if everything else is plugged in and working, it should start and run the car but you will get errors about oil pressure cause your rev counter is not working.
    That's next.

    with VCDS out and still connected, go back to the clocks, go to adaptation, channel 60.
    Channel 60 should be Can-bus power train, I think this label depends on what version of VCDS you are using.
    Hopefully when the little help box pops up you should see something like this.



    My cluster was set to 01025 but by changing it to 0 it got the revs working.
    Hopefully this will be the same for everyone else.

    You will have some cables left over and the odd cable that has no where to go in the PFL loom and visa-versa.
    I've not noticed any thing not working due to these cable.

    The only cables that will have no where to go that you might want are the door, boot and bonnet signal cables.
    These are basic earth cables, you earth them and it thinks that door is open.
    I've not wired these up yet but I will be wiring them in to the pin switches to get them to work.

    You will have a disc cable left over, that one can just be earthed and ignored, unless you want to wire that up but I don't think its needed.

    I also think this is the same process for the A3 8Ls but hopefully I will find out next year and report back.

    That's pretty much it.
    I'm not sure what else is needed?

    New Car, New Thread: Scott's Akoya Silver A8
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  6. #5
    1st Gear

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    You are officially the world expert on this Scott.
    Sliver 2000 1.9 Tdi AJM Se Auto Saloon cooking sherry but with CD Changer and now Bluetooth audio connection and boot based Tartan blanket. Now runs at 90 degrees like a good 'un. Quality Cambelt kit fitted - next on list is control arm set.
    Silver 2000 2.5 V6 Tdi Auto Quattro Saloon drowned on 7th August 2012 RIP - but she lives on in the many,many donor parts she gave so that others may live...


  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom_B View Post
    You are officially the world expert on this Scott.
    I would not go that far.

    New Car, New Thread: Scott's Akoya Silver A8
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