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Thread: Rear wheel bearing

  1. #1
    Gunny110's Avatar
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    Rear wheel bearing

    How hard is it to do a rear wheel bearing? Garage wants 150! Nearly fell over!

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  3. #2
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    FWD rears are pretty easy! Its just a pair of taper bearings mounted inside the brake disk.

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  4. #3
    Gunny110's Avatar
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    What will I need to get them out. If I order rear disks, what's the odds off getting bearings in them?

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    ScottD3's Avatar
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    You won't.

    You'll need discs, pads, bearings and just in case ABS rings.
    That I got when I did mine. O and a rebuild kit for the rear calipers and new bolts.

    Personally, I don't think 150 is to bad. Its not a BSD job but it's just a pain if you don't have a press.
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    Gunny110's Avatar
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    She needs a bearing, but it's 150 then the cambelt 250 and 170 for a cv boot

  7. #6
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    You dont need some thing mega to put it in with using new discs, it becomes a b****** of a job pressing one out thats been in there for a good while and has a huge upright with it !!
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F4 Kit - THS Decat - Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do - F21 Upgrade - 3" Maf/Saab red Injectors
    WANTED : Cheap 02/52 Passat 1.8T AWT Manual

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    Gunny110's Avatar
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    Oh ok, what would do it then? Need grease obviously lol

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    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    £170 FOR A CV BOOT !!

    do it yourself just make sure you have a strong arm (hub bolt) and the correct clamp pliers for the clips and it will cost you less than £100 with tools !!!
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F4 Kit - THS Decat - Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do - F21 Upgrade - 3" Maf/Saab red Injectors
    WANTED : Cheap 02/52 Passat 1.8T AWT Manual

  10. #9
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunny110 View Post
    Oh ok, what would do it then? Need grease obviously lol
    vice with socket similar size to bearing or you could try something like a metal g clamp and a suitable sized spacer, you will need some circlip pliers to remove the circlip and maybe some WD or similar !!
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F4 Kit - THS Decat - Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do - F21 Upgrade - 3" Maf/Saab red Injectors
    WANTED : Cheap 02/52 Passat 1.8T AWT Manual

  11. #10
    Gunny110's Avatar
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    That doesn't seem to bad tbh, I think I could manage it, I found bearings on eBay for 12 pound or so, is that around what is expected to pay for them?

  12. #11
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    The rear bearings can be tapped in with a hammer and big screwdriver.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
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  13. #12
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    Aww that's easy!! Lol

  14. #13
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunny110 View Post
    That doesn't seem to bad tbh, I think I could manage it, I found bearings on eBay for 12 pound or so, is that around what is expected to pay for them?
    use SKF, FAG OR SNR !!
    spartacus 68 likes this.
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F4 Kit - THS Decat - Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do - F21 Upgrade - 3" Maf/Saab red Injectors
    WANTED : Cheap 02/52 Passat 1.8T AWT Manual

  15. #14
    B5 BIKER's Avatar
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    As above, use decent quality bearings. Cheap ones won't last.
    i got mine prepressed in the discs with abs rotors from car-bock.de, can't recommend them highly enough

  16. #15
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    I was around 300 for both rears, discs, bearings, ABS ring, pads all done. I'm a great believer in just replacing everything at the same time, less labour costs overall

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    You can get the rear discs with the bearings allready installed from eurocarparts... You probably will still have to swap abs rings though...

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    If it's like the front ones, then a press is essential. I know this, having just watched my mechanic replace one of the fronts after just over a year! To say I wasn't happy is an understatement, especially as they wouldn't do it under warranty as that was 12 months! A "German bearing" was apparently used last time - although not an Audi one at £100 or so. I go the replacement for cost, but still had a £120 bill - 1.5 hours labour overall - and it was, because I watched it. I'd certainly not try without the press. Mike.

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    On car-bock.de the full rear set pre assembled - discs,bearings,abs rotors, and pads for €129 (approx £100)
    Don't think that's too bad for German quality parts

  20. #19
    foursprungdugtechnique's Avatar
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    Had a look at that site, next time I need discs, that's where I'm going
    B5 BIKER likes this.

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    Yeah I try to stay away from eurocarparts personally... They are cheap.. But you pay for what you get... And everyone knows how crap cheap bearings can be... Caliper repair kit for €8... Mint... I like this site

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    the abs rings can be removed if your careful, just use a gas torch to heat it up and gently persuade it off, don't try forcing it or it will bend then its only good for the bin I pressed the bearings in one side at a time with a mechanical coil spring compressor and a windy gun just remember to put both outer races in first then the inboard bearing then the inboard bearing race before installing the inboard oil seal otherwise you will never get the inboard bearing and inner race past the oil seal

 

 

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