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  1. #1
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    Rear Calipers on a quattro

    How is it best to compress rear calipers without the wind back tool? Also which way do you turn it? left or right? When doing this should you crack the bleed nipple to stop dirty fluid getting into the system? If so will i have to re bleed?

    Thanks again guys

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  3. #2
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Dont touch the bleed nipple. If theres dirty fluid then it needs changed. You shouldnt need to open the hydraulics to retract the pistons.

    The way the handbrake mechanism works, you need to simultaneously (gently) squeeze the caliper/piston, and turn it. Sometimes you'll get away with just turning it while pressing down, sometimes you wont. You can bodge it using a g clamp to squeeze, and a pair of molegrips to turn it, but it chews up the piston.

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  4. #3
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    When i turn the piston it does not go back is there any way to do this without damage to the piston. I dont want to just clamp it back. There must be a trick or way to get it back in do not want to bodge it. How much pressure do you need push on the caliper when turning it

    Cheers

  5. #4
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    Can you disconnect the hand break part of the caliper and whined it back from the bolt on the rear of piston

  6. #5
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    Ok what is the tool called that compresses the rear caliper how much is it and where do you buy it from?

  7. #6
    spartacus 68's Avatar
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    It's possible to do this with a Draper brake multi tool. I sawed the teeth off that I didn't need!

    With the brake pads off, re-attach the brake carrier, and then use a rubber mallet or indeed a block of wood to place behind the piston to press against. Lean into the brake piston and using a 1/4" extension bar (don't use latex gloves but leather work gloves), turn clockwise and use force. You can open the bleed nipple as you screw it back in! and close off when fully retracted. While you're there - use a little Lockheed red grease under the dust sleeve. Job's a good un!

    I'd bleed the system as a matter of course with DOT 4-5 fluid for best results.
    2002 A2 1.4 TDi SE (125k)
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  8. #7
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    Rather than muck around just get the right tool it's not that much from machine mart. Right-Handed Brake Piston Wind back Tool - Machine Mart

  9. #8
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F4 Kit - THS Decat - Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do - F21 Upgrade - 3" Maf/Saab red Injectors
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  10. #9
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    Thanks guys, I will get the right tool to do the job. Is it correct that the rear pads do not have wear warning cables

  11. #10
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    Yep correct !!
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F4 Kit - THS Decat - Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do - F21 Upgrade - 3" Maf/Saab red Injectors
    WANTED : Cheap 02/52 Passat 1.8T AWT Manual

  12. #11
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    Thanks for all the advice guys, went to Machine mart purchased the wind back tool and did the job easy. The noise was shagged disks and pads. Cheers

 

 

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