B6 UPRIGHTS

[creechy]

Hi
Just bagged myself a pair of B6 alloy uprights for a good price. Now looking to collect parts together for brake upgrade and fitment.
I know i,ll be needing B6 front control arms but im a bit stuck with which cv joint/driveshafts to look out for to fit my 1999 1.8t FWD.

 

[Bradderz_1988]

Think you need shafts and gearbox flanges from a TQS or S4

 

[B5NUT]

I was thinking about this mod and asked the same question. The thing that put me off was getting the right drive shafts, then having to buy lower control arms, new brake calipers, mounts, disk & pads etc it was adding up to a fair amount of cash. I'm just going to get my uprights shot blasted and powered coated and fit new bearings next year.

Not trying to put you off, would be interested to see how you get on and what the final cost will be.

 

[jbh]

ive been thinking about this aswel so ill be watching this carefully..

my thoughts are after the new year ill start building the parts up to do this. but ive got other bits on my car im needing to spend cash on first.

 

[Bradderz_1988]

Ive got a few bits already S4 B5 uprights, S4 B6 front calipers w/ pagid pads, Facelift S4 B5 rear calipers (fitted new seal kit aswell) and Trig brackets.

this way theres no need for control arm replacement but they have press fit bearings unlike the alloy ones which are bolted !!

just need front disc and rear disc pads and rear hoses but move house on saturday so all my spare cash is now gone as had to pay that today and just found out im having a baby boy so the mrs will be in shopoholic baby mode now we know its a boy so it may be sometime before i finish it

already got everything in my watch list and even the rear hoses as can get them made up through ebay for £38 delivered or HEL ones for £42 just need some ££££'s now lol

oh and theres still the turbo to fit when i aquire a 3bar fpr and set of injectors !!

 

[jbh]

hope all goes well with the move and the forth coming addition to the family.

I know the feeling of moving and having babys on there way..
I was still building furniture after our move when my wee boy was days old

Im not allowed to go daft on bits for my car as I gave up work to look after our youngest ( he has scoliosis plus a bone spur through his spinal cord)
the wife still works and I still do the occasional engine rebuild, change to get my self some extra cash.
I also do computer repairs and builds for folk I know just anything that I can either do out the back in the garage or in the house.

 

[aragorn]

You'll need A6 2001> or RS4 front control arms, not B6 A4. The shock bush is different.

You need S4/RS4 driveshafts, TQS ones wont work as they only have 100mm inners. If you use S4/RS4 shafts you dont need to touch the gearbox, they just bolt right on.

Then you just need some brakes with big spacing. I picked up some A6 312mm calipers for £40 delivered recently, so it doesnt have to cost a lot.

 

[creechy]

Thanks for the advice guys.
I seem to be building up quite a long list of jobs, rear brake discs, pad and bearings.The dreaded heater matrix, rear electric windows and cruise control. Ive got the parts but its finding the time.

 

[creechy]

Quick update.
Ive now got some S4 driveshafts to go with the B6 uprights. Also found some allroad calipers and carriers so it looks like i,ll be going with 320mm discs. Just wish there was an easy way of upgrading the rears.

 

[gmx]

You'll need A6 2001> or RS4 front control arms, not B6 A4. The shock bush is different.

You need S4/RS4 driveshafts, TQS ones wont work as they only have 100mm inners. If you use S4/RS4 shafts you dont need to touch the gearbox, they just bolt right on.

Then you just need some brakes with big spacing. I picked up some A6 312mm calipers for £40 delivered recently, so it doesnt have to cost a lot.

100% correct.

Be aware that the B6 upright will also give you +20mm track on each front corner. So if you have 8" wheels with decent rubber (even 225s imo), you may rub if lowered and cornering quite hard. I have a 235 width rubber, 32mm front ARB with 575lbs/min springs (10kg/mm) and I still managed to rub and "pinch" the fender lip. I am hoping I can get away with rolling the lip before lowering it to my preferred height for slightly more front camber.

Easy TQS Fitment: B6 upright&hub, B6 wheel bearings, RS4 control arm kit (use inboard mount on Subframe, otherwise you will need spacers for the driveshaft). Using the outboard method is a trick to get more camber since you force the lower arm out further compared to top arm but you need to space the driveshaft accordingly. Aragorn, are you sure S4/RS4 shafts are same & same lengths?
TQS Shafts should work as they correct axle spline and some cross-referencing on ETKA actually suggests they are the same as 2.8 V6 shafts (same 01A trans with 100mm inners on Quattro). Well at least they work for me and another person I know of locally.

non-TQS: As above and V6 shafts either from a 2.8/S4 (30V to be sure).

For the rears, the "easiest" upgrade are lines & brackets for 300mm disc and facelift B5 S4 calipers.

Aragorn is the man: http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a4-s4-forum-b5-chassis/100220-upright-conversion.html#post1026437

 

[aragorn]

Urm, the A6 and B6 upright is geometrically identical to the B5 one, there should be no track change when swapping from one to the other?

If you have a car which already has big outer CV joints, like the TQS or a V6 model, the driveshafts dont need touched.

The OP has a FWD A4, which has smaller 75mm bearings as standard, but large 108mm inner CV's, and thus you need the S4/RS4 shafts. And yes, i'm sure they're the same, because Audi use them on AJL engined FWD cars which have a 5 speed box with 108mm inners and big outer CV's! There is no other factory model which has 108mm inners and Big outers. 2.8 FWD shafts wont work, as the 2.8 FWD uses a 130mm inner CV.

 

[gmx]

I am not sure, but the only that makes sense is the hub itself where the disc/brake/wheel combination mounts.

 

[aragorn]

RS6 and other widebody A6's have a differnt hub flange which adds 6-8mm ish to the track, but those cars also have different brake disks with a deeper bell to compensate.

The alloy B6/C5 uprights are a direct fit with standard braking parts, so the hubs cant have the spacing built in.

I'm fairly sure my wheels certainly sit exactly where they were before after my conversion.

 

[gmx]

No idea. I didnt compare them side by side closely. All I know is visually it was wider and the same alignment place I usually go to measured 40mm extra total. Its actually a good thing, so I dont really mind until I sort the roll the fender.

 

[aragorn]

I've got a B6 upright and a B5 one in the garage.

I'll stick them side by side and take some photos in a bit, see if theres any obvious difference. The A6 ones i used i'm fairly positive are completely identical to the B5 ones, as they were interchanged on the B5 S4 depending on age.

You sure you havent jsut used the wrong hole on the subframe or something?

 

[gmx]

No, definitely inboard point.
I also did switch to a V6 subframe but this shouldn't make any difference.

 

[aragorn]

As did i.

Mine sits identically to the wifes on normal TQS parts, so the A6 uprights certainly dont change the track.

I cant see how the B6 ones could add 20mm to the track but still allow the stock driveshafts to fit?