Chris NottEM Tuning
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  1. #1
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    rear wheel beairng or dry diff? A4 tqs

    ok, so i think my rear bearing is going, as it makes a road noise type sound and when i turn right the noise increases to a louder grinding style noise, also i noticed my diff has been weeping, it doesn't look recent so im worried its ran dry. i w\s planing to change it with the clutch change any way but i think i am going to buy some diff oil next week to be safe, but would a dry diff make these noises and more so turning a certain way?
    also how do i go about changing this, is this a pressed bearing or do i need to get this to a garage?
    im very mechanically oriented/minded. and do everything myself down to clutches and head gaskets etc, so i want to avoid a garage at all costs.

    i can get access to a press but i want to know if this is how it comes out, and if i even need a press im wondering if i can use a large socket or pipe and a bolt and washers to draw the bearing out and then to draw it back in?

    also where's the best place to get one, i know pattern bearing dont last long, im in touch with all german parts about my clutch and bearing and seals so would they be best place? or should i go direct to vw/audi. i can get trade as i send trade there way from my place,

    cheers

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  3. #2
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    If you do the bearings you will have the uprights off so i would do both diff seals and new oil whilst there off as it will be alot easier to get the shafts out !!
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  4. #3
    spartacus 68's Avatar
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    I'm in the same position. A4 quattro rear noise driving me crazy!

    Very much doubt its a dry rear diff. It can weep, but not to the point where it will be low on gear oil. Get the car up to temperature if your changing the rear diff oil. Pull the fill plug before pulling the drain plug. Useful link here: AudiWorld Tech Articles

    Regards rear bearings, then FAG bearings are OE part if I'm not mistaken. I can do most DIY jobs, but bearing is garage job, so booked in for Wednesday this week. Looking at £200 for fitting.
    2002 A2 1.4 TDi SE (125k)
    2001 A4 2.5 TDi Avant Quattro Sport (155k)
    1995 80 TDi Avant SE (175k) Sold

  5. #4
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    If you want to DIY it but dont have a press, take the upright off, and take the upright and new bearing to a garage. They'll usually press it in for not much money.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  6. #5
    Broken Byzan's Avatar
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    I have had no luck with drawing them in. Press FTW.

  7. #6
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    I got the bearings for iirc £25 each (SKF ones) and fitted them myself as i have access to a press at work !! So saved some pennys in labour but had to do it myself but least i get to know the ins and outs of my motor and tbh there a piece of piss even pressing them in and out as there are no rusty circlips

    you just need a steady hand and a good set of eyes and some grease to ease them in !!
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  8. #7
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    thanks for the replys


    mmmm
    i have literally no problem in removing hubs and seals etc, but im wondering


    do i just pay the £150/£200 (i pursume this is one side? )and have it done and save alot of ball ache, or do it my self!!

    well i have access to a press, ive used it to press bearings before,
    the only part that concerns me is, is the bearing an open bearing were the hub has a ball race, or is it a totally enclosed bearing?

    also once the hub and upright is out is it easy enough to get to the bearing? im sure its easy enough, but wondered

    are the diff seals easy enough? im sure i found some info and its easy enough

    im also thinking do i go the whole hog and replace the bushes? if so what bushes/arms do i need

    really need this like a hole in the head! ive got a clutch to fix!

    what's the life of the bearing once it starts making noise?
    because i really need to buy this pressure plate and the rear bearing, but may not be able to stretch to replacing other seals and bushes.

    might have to see what i can get from work, but its from motor factors, so maybe ill get them from all german parts.

    i can get 2ltrs of diff oil for £15.99 so thats no problem there, whats the price of diff seals?


    and lastly
    Quote Originally Posted by Bradderz_1988 View Post

    you just need a steady hand and a good set of eyes and some grease to ease them in !!
    thats what she said!!!!!

  9. #8
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
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    Diff seals are iirc about a tenner each or so

    the bearings are complete and not a tapered bearing

    id get these bits done first before doing your bushes but certainly dont ignore them in the future. (I still need to do mine going to just start buying bits and bobs at a time)

    Bearing life noise is if its humbling is just starting to go if its squealing like mad its crying for help lol

    Diff seals are easy enough when shafts are out (look on my build thread theres some pics in there iirc)

    get some of ebay i got 5 litres for iirc £25 from a seller called smith and Allen so i could do the g/box aswell will try find a linky now !!

    Do it your self why pay if you have access to a press (wheres the press you have access to ??) if its a workshop they will be s variety of lumps of round metal to suit the bearing size i used a 24mm deep socket to press the hub flange and then a rear axle bush tool to push the bearing once the old is out you use that to press in the new one when it gets stuck dont panic just smash it with a hammer then it will come away when you press the hub flange back in use a suitable socket on the rear bearing race on the opposite side and place the flange on the flat and press the whole assembly on to the flange whilst spinning it left and right slightly to ease it in and make sure its inline !!
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  10. #9
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  11. #10
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    Oh and some advice/pointers make sure the bearing is in the right way the side thats smooth like a velocity stack is on the front of the upright (flange side) and the side wirh a slight recess is the rear (driveshaft side) just have a good luck when removing the upright etc

    make sure you mark the bottom adjustment bolt of the hub with tipex both sides make sure it goes bsck in exactly the dame place or you will be no doubt doing the tyres in a month or so !!

    you will find when you press the hub flange out the outer race will come with it no doubt, you will need a vice and a big hammer and chisel to knock it off or if you have access to an air chisel it should fly straight off as mine did first time !!
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  12. #11
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    what's that oil like compared to castrol

    ok press is at kwikfit, iirc its either a 10 or 20 ton press. is a good 7 foot tall by about 3 foot wide.

  13. #12
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    yer, thats what i worry about, the outer race

    thats what happened before, and **** me, that was a right womans parts to get off!!!!!

  14. #13
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    Yeah it doesnt take much pressure on these bearings

    oil is oil at the end of the day its grade is what it says i stick with branded but they look like a respectable company so id go with them or you will just be paying over the odds for a branded gearoil that does the same job as the other one lol !!
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  15. #14
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    yer, issue i have is the outter race.

    cant for the life of me remember how i got it off. think we got the oxy acetylene out

  16. #15
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    chisel and hammer usually moves the outer race, its not that tight.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  17. #16
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    ok great, well going to have to order two wheel bearings and the diff seals. altho im worried ill open a can o wprms on the arms/bushes!

    a mate of mine is going to press put and in the bearing for £20 a side. so will be good.

    just cant belive i gave jason at german car parts my card details, and he didnt even take payment. which seems odd to me, but i still have to pay for the pressure plate, and this has ****ed me off a little

 

 

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