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  1. #1
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    need my car problems sorted, few qestions.

    ok so i have a few qestions, so im just going to put them all here, ill number them so i can work out whos talking to me about what!!

    1, temp was going down on runs when i first bought the car. so i replaced stat. 6 months later, same problem, also getting intermitant ect sensor, so swapped out for genuine part , but pattern on stat as i didnt have £37 for gen one, so this was about a month ago. car warms up much quicker mpg has gone up marginally, but ive noticed a increase, but still once on the motor way it drops to 60 well needle pegs the bottom, its was a quaility stat from work. (valeo) so can this be buggered after a month already?

    2. my abs module is fubar, ive not managed to find a replacement as yet, which matches my part number, so im now thinking buy one from a tqs of the same year, problem is i removed the module to see if i could send it off, but ive totally lost it some were. so now i have no idea of its coding, on that note will regestered vcds lite recode this module? or can the module be coded out, as im more then happy to have no abs, would be nice but its a utter pain

    3. my clutch was slipping now and again but ive got a feeling its the rear crank shaft seal. as im losing oil slowly, and its not dripping from anywere, i have some stuff at work that revitalises neoprene seals, will this work? if not is it easy enough to swap this part over while im doing the clutch? as far as i know the part is £78 from dealers.

    4. under my car the other day as im getting only what i can describe as a nosy bearing, but i feel its not that as my output seals are leaking, one is weeping one side and the other has spat some up the the chassis and the surronding area is wet, but this is the opposite side from the noise i can hear, is there a tool for doing the bearings other then ecs and is it just worth doing both sides or even the front aswell, and also best doing the input shaft aswell?
    edit: is it possible the tyre has saww toothed? any way of knowing?

    5. i know i said i got better mpg. but i feel im still not returning the mpg that the car should, i know its a tqs and turbo but maybe im hoping for more then its going to give. is there any chance a faulty fpr could be making the car run rich? the exhaust fumes have always smelt petroly

    6. the display on the clocks have become unreadable, ive found the screens on ebay and marked as oem or genuine part, im good with a soldering iron and have liquid flux etc, is this possible for a amatuer/skilled person?


    many thanks for taking the time to read. i really need to get on top of the issues now before they become a problem
    Last edited by boost-addict; 29th April 2013 at 20:11.

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  3. #2
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
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    1. Mine used to do that after fitting new temp sensor and stat both genuine then it just cured itself.

    2. ??

    3. Could be the gearbox shaft seal

    4. Just do all the wheel bearings if not known when last replaced

    5. If it smells of petrol it could be a exhaust leak or faulty lambda sensor or the likes mine smells pretty petroly too but have just replaced the cracked manifold going to do a log soon and see what its reading.

    6. I was going to send mine away but i just keep it turned off for now think its about £80 to send them off i was just going to do it next time im on hols etc but theres quite a few dis diy's.
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  4. #3
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    1: Yes, i've had new branded stats fail in a short period. Just fit a new one, doesnt have to be genuine.

    2: I dont think the coding really matters, but i'm sure i could look it up for you from my car if needed. I believe only the later cars with ESP can be coded.

    3: Do the clutch, and buy new rear crank and gearbox input shaft seals and fit them while its apart. Dont mess around with "rejuvinator". You can get the crank seal for more sensible money from the likes of All German Parts. Gearbox ones are dealer only, but not too expensive.

    4: New bearings are probably the answer. Fit new diff seals and check the diff oil level though, most have been seeping for years and will be low.

    5: "Petroly" exhaust suggests you have no cat fitted, or your cat isnt working. My long term average MPG's are in my signature, the car will average 31-32 on a long motorway run. Best i've had is 34 properly grannying it on the motorway.

    6: its a fine ribbon cable you need to solder. Certainly not impossible and if your skilled in SMD rework or similar fine soldering it should be an easy enough job.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
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  5. #4
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    1. na its defently better but motor way journeys make it go down, not looked at logs yet

    3. im losing engine oil slowly. but then my turbo smokes blue a little very randomly if reving lightly but not on boost or over run. but the smoke stinks of petrol

    4. no evednce of bearings so may just need doing

    5. it may well be the lambda causing this and poor mpg infact, thats next on the list then

    6. how can you turn it off? the bleeping is annoying too!

  6. #5
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    1: Yes, i've had new branded stats fail in a short period. Just fit a new one, doesnt have to be genuine.

    ok might just get a audi one, it seems pointless doing it over and over again

    2: I dont think the coding really matters, but i'm sure i could look it up for you from my car if needed. I believe only the later cars with ESP can be coded.

    so your saying i can use any abs module. and itll work ok? mines a 99.5 dont belive it has esp.

    3: Do the clutch, and buy new rear crank and gearbox input shaft seals and fit them while its apart. Dont mess around with "rejuvinator". You can get the crank seal for more sensible money from the likes of All German Parts. Gearbox ones are dealer only, but not too expensive.
    4: New bearings are probably the answer. Fit new diff seals and check the diff oil level though, most have been seeping for years and will be low.

    3 and 4 yer thats what i think the best way to go. going to work out a small fortune doing all seals, and bearings but at least its done.

    5: "Petroly" exhaust suggests you have no cat fitted, or your cat isnt working. My long term average MPG's are in my signature, the car will average 31-32 on a long motorway run. Best i've had is 34 properly grannying it on the motorway.

    yes i have no cat, but i plan to put it back on some time this week end, i dont like the raspyness, but will also replace lambda as mpg is poor

    6: its a fine ribbon cable you need to solder. Certainly not impossible and if your skilled in SMD rework or similar fine soldering it should be an easy enough job.

    yer i see diys but wondered if it was doable, ive never done fine soldiering jobs but im capable, but if theres a chance of messing it up i could send it away, but then ill have no car as the key code is in the clocks lol.

  7. #6
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
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    1. Mine only did this on the motorway too and once it dropped off it crept all the way back to 90 fairly quickly.

    3. Sounds like you may be getting excess oil in intake system/exhaust when i took the hockey puck off to do the manifold it was caked in oil so im going to fit a catch can at some point ive deleted the purge solenoid piping just got the evap to do but need to way it up.

    4. If ones gone your best off doing all four !!

    5. Mine has decat so may well be aragorns suggestion of running a decat.

    6. Press the reset on the bottom of the wiper stalk but it wont turn off the upper warning bit just your mpg/trip computer.
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  8. #7
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    yer i was thinking of taking the whole breather system off. am i able to just remove the rubbr pipe from the hard metal pipe that goes to the tip and just run that to a catch can? or is it best to come from the other end of that hard pipe?

    as for bearings, ive seen bearing on there own or they have a housing on them with four bolt holes, also they need pressing in dont they?

    the tool kit for them is dam expencive, would this do the job 10PC CAR BEARING RACE AND SEAL DRIVER SET TOOL KIT AUDI - GERMAN PRECISION | eBay
    Last edited by boost-addict; 30th April 2013 at 12:22.

  9. #8
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
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    I was going to do it off the crankcase breather pipe and delete the check valve, pipes to manifold and pipe and hockey puk on TIP.
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  10. #9
    Sulli79's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boost-addict View Post

    so your saying i can use any abs module. and itll work ok? mines a 99.5 dont belive it has esp.
    Not quite, you can't use a Quattro one in a fwd, or vice versa, so if your Quattro and non esp you will need one the same
    1999 1.8TQS Saloon in Black/Dirt
    1999 1.8TQS Saloon in Silver Breaking

  11. #10
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    yer i figured that as they brake slightly diffrently. i dont belive mine has esp, any way of knowing for sure?
    i actually saved the part number from it, so if you have any suggestions,

    so if i do find one that works and sutible for my car, itll just work with no reprogramming?

  12. #11
    Sulli79's Avatar
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    Should do, the one I took off my breaker went to another tqs and I think was a one for one swap, pm nick101 to see if he had any issues.
    1999 1.8TQS Saloon in Black/Dirt
    1999 1.8TQS Saloon in Silver Breaking

  13. #12
    Sulli79's Avatar
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    And for ESP if you don't have the button next to the fogs, or another ecu under the rear seat you'll be non esp
    1999 1.8TQS Saloon in Black/Dirt
    1999 1.8TQS Saloon in Silver Breaking

  14. #13
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    TQS's didnt get ESP, and as above, it needs to be a quattro pump.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  15. #14
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    yer thats fine, i can source a tqs pump just could never find one with same part number. no, no esp button.

    so these wheel bearings, are they easy enough with a bearing extractor? and i see ones with a bearing in a holder with 4 bolts is that a swap over? can they be gsf parts? sure dealers are going to want a bomb

  16. #15
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
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    The 4 bolts are for alloy uprights all four are press fit bearings on the TQS.
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  17. #16
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    right ok, at leas ti know now


    ok so founf the part number sticker, has

    02610 top right
    765604 bottom left
    0 273 004 284 bottom right

    that 3rd number relates to a abs module from a a4 b6. or at least thats the search returns that any way.

    so now im wondering was that a replacement some one got and it was wrong any way. so im chasing the wrong part number.

    this it here for £80 but the other two numbers dont match
    98-04 Audi A4 A6 A8 VW Abs Control Unit 0 273 004 284 / 0273004284 | eBay

 

 

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