AH FabricationsChris Nott
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  1. #1
    2nd Gear

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    A4 1.8TQS - New owner & a few questions

    Hey, I have just bought my 3rd B5, a 1999 A4 1.8TQS Avant with 79k on the clock, having previously owned a '99 1.9TDi 110, 00' 2.8 Quattro auto, and a '02 4.2 S8 amongst other things over the past couple of years.


    The car is in really good nick but I have a few faults to work through;

    - The worst fault is a clonk from the diff/rear of the car when letting off the power, it can also be heard when in reverse, when you bring the clutch up and load / unload the drive train. This leads me to beleive its the diff carrier bushes, but I am yet to get under it and have a good poke about.

    Does this sound about right? From what I can see there are two bushes in the rear beam / support, and a front mount. what bushes do people recomend? I dont want anything to hard as I dont want to make it drone / vibrate but I want to use this oportunity to upgrade if I'm going to replace. There is a lot of choice with the rear bushes at sensible prices, but the front bush seems to be rather pricey - so I'm hoping its on the rears I need.

    - Temp gauge stopped working - popping to audi tonight to pick up a new coolant temp sensor.

    - Doesnt always come on boost, Im going to check the vac hoses and waste gate is free to move. From what I have read I guess it could be N75, diverter valve, MAF, TIP, or a boost leak. I plan to replace most of these items anyway to ensure its all up to spec. I want to keep it all looking stock where possible.

    Does anyone know if the N75J works OK with a 99' AJL? I have read that not all engines / ECU's accept the different valve? Or is it still pot luck.

    - Headlamp washers dont pop up. No idea why not.

    I have just ordered 5 litres of shell helix 5w/40 and will pick up a new filter from audi and get that done ASAP.

    Thats all for now, im interested to hear your opinions.
    1999 Audi A4 1.8TQS (Standard)
    2003 VW Golf GT TDi
    2002 Audi S8 4.2 SOLD
    2004 Alfa 156 2.4JTD 20V Veloce SOLD
    2000 Audi A4 2.8 Quattro tiptronic (Electric heated seats, winter pack, lowered on H&R Springs & 18" A8 sport wheels) SOLD
    1999 Audi A4 1.9TDI 110hp (with full Audi Sports kit) SOLD

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  3. #2
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    It could be a multitude of things, i stiffened my rear bushes and the clunk turned into a really loud clank, i replaced them with OEM audi ones and that made it a bit better. Similarly it can be caused by engine/gearbox mounts, wear in the propshaft, CV joints or centre diff. I've changed all sorts on mine and still havent cured it. CV Joints are next on my list.

    It could be the thermostat rather than the guage. Check with climate control diagnostics, or VCDS.

    Use a standard N75 valve.

    Faulty pump?

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  4. #3
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    Pictures of the new motor ????
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  5. #4
    2nd Gear

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    Thanks Aragorn, the clunk is very muffuled and deep, which indicated its movement within a rubber bush, I plan to jack it up and have a good look over the weekend. Spoke to audi and the rears are £14 each, but the front diff mount is £114... Im tempted by the rubber ones from 034 Motorsport (not the polys), or the soft poly Apikol ones. They dont look too hard to change (unless you know otherwise?) so I think i'll try some stiffer ones and see what the result is.

    It was definitely getting upto temp, and I fitted the new temp sensor last night which has fixed that. Interestingly the sensor fitted was was a black sensor, with a 4 pin D plug on it, the chap at Audi told me I should have a green sensor acording to ETKA and couldnt a black one line mine on the system. It seems to read correctly so its obviously OK, but the old black sensor is a pukka audi one. Very odd.

    It seems to pull much better now and is certainly coming on boost every time, which is a bonus. Unsure if it was the sensor (which I beleive is also serving the ECU) or things freeing up a bit after some time standing.

    Why do you say not to use an N75J or similar, it seems to be a common tweek to get a bit more boost across the range? Im planing a remap once its all up together (need to make sure I have a good solid basis before I get it done) and a lot say the N75J works nicely with a remap.

    Didnt realise the headlamp washers where on a seperate pump, had assumed it was a solenoid valve - will look into that.

    My old 2.8




    My S8


    No pics of the new one, but theres some in the advert here:
    Rare A4 Quattro Estate with Low Mileage SOLD (2000) on Car And Classic UK [C365733]
    1999 Audi A4 1.8TQS (Standard)
    2003 VW Golf GT TDi
    2002 Audi S8 4.2 SOLD
    2004 Alfa 156 2.4JTD 20V Veloce SOLD
    2000 Audi A4 2.8 Quattro tiptronic (Electric heated seats, winter pack, lowered on H&R Springs & 18" A8 sport wheels) SOLD
    1999 Audi A4 1.9TDI 110hp (with full Audi Sports kit) SOLD

  6. #5
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Mine was a dull thud too, right until i replaced/stiffened every rubber bush on the car trying to cure it, and it turned into a horrible clanking noise that was unbearable. I swapped the 034 diff carrier bushes for stock audi ones, and it went back to being a thud. Replacing a worn CV Joint on the propshaft improved it somewhat, but its still there, and still annoying me. So far i've changed: Engine mounts, transmission mounts, snub mount, alloy rear subframe bushes, new rear diff mounts, replaced flywheel/clutch, replaced gearbox, repaired propshaft, swapped rear diff. Some of the changes did nothing, others made slight improvements to the thunk, but after all that, its STILL there.

    That said, i'd do the rear diff mounts, and the engine/gearbox mounts as a starting point and see how you get on. You might get lucky!

    The original coolant sensor will have been black or blue, they changed to green at some point later.

    N75J is just pointless, if your having a remap, then the tuner will map the car to suit the standard N75. Sure, you can fit a J, and map it to suit that, but theres little to be gained, and afaik its a more spikey valve which is harder to control. Standard valve works perfectly well. Changing it is nothing more than a bodge, fitted by mongs who think they can get a "free" power boost without doing anything else.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  7. #6
    Reverse Gear

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    My N75 valve had a code on it when i bought the car and was running abit lazy, i have picked up a n75j valve as i read that yes it brings boost on more aggressively and may boost more, which i may like may not like, but only until the ecu learns it and deviates it back to standard power, and when it does this the boost curve will be good. and seen as though i was replacing my old one i thought id give it ago.

  8. #7
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    What typically happens is you get a spike, then it drops to a lower level.

    So instead of a spike to 12 and holding 10, it might spike to 14 then drop to 9 or 8.

    So in reality its a bit crap. The ECU also cant "learn" the new valve, the PID controller for boost is fixed in the map.

    And if your unlucky, then when it spikes the ECU takes a fit and dumps you to limp mode.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  9. #8
    2nd Gear

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    The remap will be an off the shelf, revo or similar, for what I'm upto anything more seems overkill. Im really after driveable power rather than some huge peak HP thats only any good for boasting about down the pub. From what I had read a lot of people said the J would give power across the rev range but ultimately arrive at the same peak - having read what you say and another chap via PM, i will replace with a fresh standard valve. I assume its still work replacing to ensure its tip top? quite a few places say they deteriorate with age.

    I put a lever up between the rear diff mount and the rear ARB so I could lever against it and it does seem very soft, I can deflect the bush quite a long way with only 12" of leverage.

    Now to find the balance of what will hold it in place, without causing unwanted vibration / noise. Having played with quite a few entirely poly bushed cars and hill climbing a car with a ton of rose joints, I know how uncomfortable and annoying a car thats too stiff for the road can get! This is only meant to be my daily - but I cant help but tinker!

  10. #9
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Get some new audi rear bushes, and fill the front mount on the rear diff with tigerseal or similar pu adhesive. I find thats a decent combination.

    Street density 034 rear bushes might be alright, mine were the track density ones and those really are too hard.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


 

 

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