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  1. #1
    Nessy's Avatar
    VW + Audi mad

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    Anyone here replaced one of their INNER tie rods?

    Whilst fitting my cruise control last week I noticed a clonk coming from my steering, it was only discovered when I had to turn my steering from side to side with engine off to get at the airbag securing screws......
    The more I look at it the more I'm convinced it's the drivers side inner track/tie rod and that the ball-joint is worn.
    If both wheels are on ground then the clonk is there when you slightly rock the steeering wheel from left to right.
    If drivers side is jacked up (n/s wheel on ground) there is no clonk.
    There is no play in either n/s or o/s outer track rod ends.
    Having done a lot of internet searching I keep finding conflicting info as to what tools I need to do the job?
    Some say a big adjustable wrench with jaws >38mm is all thats needed.
    Others say big mole grips?
    Others specify a large crows-foot wrench?
    I've seen several inner tie rod removal tools(like this Laser 3829 Inner Tie Rod Tool - Multi Purpose: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike) but these cost circa £40 and seem a bit extravagant for something I doubt if I'll ever use again.
    Having said that, I'd still have to buy a big adjustable wrench/molegrips as none of my current ones are big enough!
    Has anyone here ever done this on an A4 themselves?
    Its fine reading about the job on a Golf/Jetta/New Beetle etc but on the A4 space looks very tight to get a wrench in there, even on full lock , and if I'm going to have to spend serious money on tools that won't get used again I might just bite the bullet and get a garage to do the job for not much more money.....
    Any advice welcomed.

    Thanks.
    '99 Ming Blue A4 Avant TDi SE 110 + Dragon Performance Tuning Box
    Factory sunroof / Cruise / Aircon + Climate / Royale Blue leather

    '72 1302LS Karmann Beetle Cabrio Silbermetallic

    '63 Karmann Ghia Sunroof Coupe Pacific Blue

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  3. #2
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    I to have that knocking noise from the steering, as i believe that is what is causing my vague steering at motorway speeds or on bumpy roads, there is also a technical bulletin to tighten the power steering box adjustment screw which i have tried with no success as it wouldnt budge the knock has been there with 3 differant steering racks fitted on the car there seems to be no play in the UJ or inner ends and the outers are a few months old my rear lower arms seem to have quite a bit of movement (also replaced months ago) there meyle HD range so should be garenteed but i dont no there procedure as to replacing them on the other hand ive been looking at the powerflex black series bushes as im hopefully going to do the rear end with these some point this year, i replaced some lower control arms on a B6 in work the other day so have kept them to oneside incase i upgrade to the ally uprights to go bigger brakes so may come in handy.

    if you have a search back sulli79 started a thread which has the procedure to carry out you need both wheels of the ground to do it and its a pain in the arse to get on the adjustment screw hence why its hard to budge i used a long reach ring end spanner with no joy.
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F4 Kit - THS Decat - Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do - F21 Upgrade - 3" Maf/Saab red Injectors
    WANTED : Cheap 02/52 Passat 1.8T AWT Manual

  4. #3
    Nessy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bradderz_1988 View Post
    I to have that knocking noise from the steering, as i believe that is what is causing my vague steering at motorway speeds or on bumpy roads, there is also a technical bulletin to tighten the power steering box adjustment screw which i have tried with no success as it wouldnt budge the knock has been there with 3 differant steering racks fitted on the car there seems to be no play in the UJ or inner ends and the outers are a few months old my rear lower arms seem to have quite a bit of movement (also replaced months ago) there meyle HD range so should be garenteed but i dont no there procedure as to replacing them on the other hand ive been looking at the powerflex black series bushes as im hopefully going to do the rear end with these some point this year, i replaced some lower control arms on a B6 in work the other day so have kept them to oneside incase i upgrade to the ally uprights to go bigger brakes so may come in handy.

    if you have a search back sulli79 started a thread which has the procedure to carry out you need both wheels of the ground to do it and its a pain in the arse to get on the adjustment screw hence why its hard to budge i used a long reach ring end spanner with no joy.
    I tried that adjustment ,lol, thinking that was the issue......
    On mine the screw was a pain to get at but with care (and with drivers side wheel removed) an 18mm open jawed spanner went on no trouble and was able to tighten it up.
    It did no good so I adjusted it back to where it was before.
    It was only after that (and a lot more forum searching) that I came across the inner tie rod info and the fact that if the play is on 1 side of the rack only it is very likely to be the inner tie rods at fault, my rack doesn't leak and feels smooth in operation.
    I jacked up the car this afternoon and did a bit of dismantling, got the drivers side outer track rod end off and had a good push/pull on the inner TRE.
    Can feel definite movement, not much but enough methinks to cause the clonk, can't hear or feel it in everyday use, its only with ignition off and wheels on ground that you can feel/hear it when you waggle the wheel, think its in the early stages of wear?
    Have now decided against a tool mentioned in my 1st post, am looking for a 38mm crows foot wrench now that wont break the bank, went to a very good local hardware/tool shop today that has just about everything.They could get me one, but it would cost £93; needless to say,I'm still looking!!!!!!
    '99 Ming Blue A4 Avant TDi SE 110 + Dragon Performance Tuning Box
    Factory sunroof / Cruise / Aircon + Climate / Royale Blue leather

    '72 1302LS Karmann Beetle Cabrio Silbermetallic

    '63 Karmann Ghia Sunroof Coupe Pacific Blue

  5. #4
    3rd Gear

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    I put one of mine in to get one changed a year or so ago.

    As I didn't do it myself, I can't give you clues, but I'm sure it didn't cost a massive amount so I wouldn't think it's a huge job.
    1999 A4 B5 1.9 TDi FWD Saloon, Green
    2000 A4 B5 2.5 TDi Quattro Avant, Maroon, 'Panzer' Plated (currently sporting wrecked engine)
    2000 A4 B5 2.5 TDi Quattro Saloon, Blue, 'Panzer' Plated, Cruise Control retrofitted, OEM 6 Disc Changer retrofitted

  6. #5
    2nd Gear

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    I have a couple of Inner track rods to do on the rs4 also.

    Just a thought. Why dont a few of us pitch in and buy the specific tool for the job? It might cost us £10-£20 each but it is much better than paying £50+ for a tool that you are likely only going to use once.

  7. #6
    Broken Byzan's Avatar
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    Dead easy to, but i bet it makes no odds, the quattros have an issue where the rack mount flexes causing noise.

  8. #7
    Audibahn's Avatar
    Reverse Gear

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    I did both sides to mine about a week ago all i needed was a crecent wrench

  9. #8
    Nessy's Avatar
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    Cheers all, as I hate paying anyone to do anything on my car,lol, I've decided to get a tool myself and replace both sides whilst I'm about it...if the drivers side has gone I reckon the nearside can't have too much life left in it!
    As I don't have an adjustable wrench big enough I'd have to buy one anyway, and seeing that it would still be a bit of an ordeal squeezing & using that in the wheelarch I've ordered a 38mm crows foot wrench and so will be able to do the job the correct way......
    Just hoping to God that it really is the TRE and not the rack istelf.....really dont want to have to change that!
    '99 Ming Blue A4 Avant TDi SE 110 + Dragon Performance Tuning Box
    Factory sunroof / Cruise / Aircon + Climate / Royale Blue leather

    '72 1302LS Karmann Beetle Cabrio Silbermetallic

    '63 Karmann Ghia Sunroof Coupe Pacific Blue

  10. #9
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    TBH replacing the rack isnt that bad ive done it twice but with the aid of a two-post ramp, it is probably just as easy with the front end on axle stands theres a good write up on audi world to go over for a bit of insight

    AudiWorld Tech Articles
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F4 Kit - THS Decat - Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do - F21 Upgrade - 3" Maf/Saab red Injectors
    WANTED : Cheap 02/52 Passat 1.8T AWT Manual

 

 

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