Central locking pump dead !!

Bradderz_1988

Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!
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Well ive just noticed tonite that central locking wasnt working as didnt hear the pump and the door pins didnt move dont no how long its been like that as i have the alarm trigger beep and always presume its locked when you get the beep.

Funnily enough when the fuel pump died on me it seamed to run on for a good ten seconds but it has been fine ever since so though nothing of it.

so i got my itorch out and set out at removing the pump as i was pulling the foam of the top and trying to remove the unit the boot light was flickering and going off and on at first i thought it was shorting on the body but then when removing the connectors i came across this ........

E3D25BEF-19D9-4A8B-B489-2B3214D482F9-822-000000E56A2AA110_zps5d883535.jpg

74CBD7BF-B506-4681-93EC-A74C02BCDFAC-822-000000E55DA4299D_zpsf5f6bb16.jpg


i dont no how bad it is but it looks like its just suface corrosion or just oxidised will have a better look tomorrow if i get a replacement motor from my local scrappy.

so at this point i was thinking its that ****** notorious impeller lol and it ****** was

E14F4C6D-83E9-4997-B58A-6CF485987F90-822-000000E54B3D096B_zps586cc58e.jpg


it look like its been dead pump month for me :( i wander whats next ........ Washer pump !!!!!

And no one be saying oil pump haha !!!!!!!!
 
Forgot to add since disconnecting i cant open the boot via the contacts but it will open of the fob ??? Connections on pcb need cleaning ??
 
did you clean the contacts on those white sockets to remove all the corrosion?

The bit that plugs in might be corroded too?
 
Get some electrical contact cleaner (NOT WD40!!) and give the connector, and both sides of the PCB a good spray then before it all evaporates clean it with a paintbrush and spray again to remove the debris.

As Kev said, do the sockets too.
 
Didnt clean anything as had nothing to hand will give it a good clean when i get a replacement motor/impeller.

does the boot contact switches run on this circuit i presume. ??

had fun this morning ****** door lock was frozen took me 25mins to get in the fooker as id pushed the pins on all the doors and locked it off the drivers barrel lol
 
Didnt clean anything as had nothing to hand will give it a good clean when i get a replacement motor/impeller.

does the boot contact switches run on this circuit i presume. ??

had fun this morning ****** door lock was frozen took me 25mins to get in the fooker as id pushed the pins on all the doors and locked it off the drivers barrel lol

The boot runs off this as well.
 
Where can i get the replacement upgraded motor from as i dont fancy going to a scrappers for it to happen again, does any one have part number for the repair kit or part number for the pumps that have the bigger impeller that i can use with mine ????

theres some on ebay for £43 posted !!!

read somewhere that oldskool sells these ???
 
the older '96 A4 pumps, and pumps from Audi 80's etc are the "upgraded" type.

get yourself an old pump and swap the motor bit over.
 
Do you no the part numbers as going to scrappers tonite so can dig one out if i have part number !!!
 
Hit a stop gap !!!!!!

thought i was on for a winner but the pressure/vac ports dont line up heres some pics !!!!!

Left scrappy / right mine !!
DABB5B85-8C4C-49CC-903B-AC1B2C124CAA-1458-000001D309672711_zps539d1b23.jpg


Scrappy one !!
6BF56D1E-B175-4768-91A1-C9066ECF0A8C-1458-000001D31E4EAE44_zps1f1c6048.jpg


my motor !!
37046E6B-B11A-42F9-8C4B-148F19E5ACC1-1458-000001D33CF6220B_zps6e110267.jpg


The ports are the only thing stopping mine from being repaired is there any way around this ????
 
Ive just spoke to a seller on ebay called 'fawad' who sells the repair pumps and hes said theres no actual way of just swaping out the graphite part you have to cut the pipe off your exsisting pump and pipe it on to the 4A0 pump so that it can connect to the exsisting housing outlet and solder/sleeve the wires.

going to get it done tomorrow !!

now ive cleaned out the connections and pcb and my boot still wont open via the micro switches im having to use the key fob any suggestions it was working perfectly fine before the unit was removed any one got pin numbers for the micro switches so i can check continuity and resistance values ????
 
Old-School was selling the spare parts for our pumps and still is I think.

Is the micro switch it self working?
Could just be coincidence that it stopped when the pump was removed.
 
The micro switches are clicking there sometimes intermittent (glad theres 2) lol tried bridging the connectors with a staple i found in the boot and nothing happend it opens of the key fob so its something between the switches and CLP !!!!
 
just fit the 4a0 pump motor complete, cut the spout off the old pump and join it to the new one with a bit of silicone hose.
 
953F81F8-9FA3-4A56-B359-87C489649D68-2067-000002AEDB5FDEC5_zps6cd64e8e.jpg


4F10493F-2792-414E-A167-80C6ECBBBC45-2067-000002AEE3429200_zps32329401.jpg



ive fitted it and i get the motor just buzzing no central locking working i didnt check the motor with a feed before i fitted it so going to swap my motor over on my dinner and test the motor hopefully its dead if not i may have done something wrong but the impeller only goes in one way would you advise a bit of lunrication or not ???
 
is that vacuum pipe sealed? Looks like the T piece is open at one end? Shouldnt there be a hose connected to that?

You may have a leak somewhere in the system, which is probably what killed the original pump in the first place?
 
Its blanked of with a ball bearing was like that when i stripped it, theres just no noise from the pump at all just about to pull it in to the workshop so will let you no how i get on hopefully the motors dead !!!
 
Well motors dead and tried to swap over my motor and the shaft is to small and has sheared the locating lug !! phoned breakers and picking one up tomorrow !!

hopefully this time it will be ok lol
 
Scott i have 2 of each of these available if there any good to you !!!

E3EC2E4D-F443-4A61-9D23-388E8685D801-265-00000043B81F73F4_zps7965c5ce.jpg


31CD2724-0664-4ED4-B753-790B1FD8A80C-265-00000043BE7CC6BB_zps84e2913e.jpg


no motors and the other pump inpeller unit i have im going to keep as a spare just incase :), PM me your address if your interested and i will post them asap !!

well my CLP unit is built up ready to go in car will update when ive fitted and tested it !!!
 
Scott i have 2 of each of these available if there any good to you !!!





no motors and the other pump inpeller unit i have im going to keep as a spare just incase :), PM me your address if your interested and i will post them asap !!

well my CLP unit is built up ready to go in car will update when ive fitted and tested it !!!

Cool. thanks mate.
I'll take them.
I got an Idea building and they might come in handy.

Good luck with the test.
 
Well it works and the microswitches for the boot are now working aswel so jobs a gud un :)

no
probs will reply to your pm shortly !!
 
Last edited:
That grapite impella went on mine... sourced a replacement from a scrappy £20 for the whole thing!! :icon_thumright: dont think he knew how expensive they are haha

and because i only have 1 key, i couldnt recode it (so i hear), what i did was just de-solder the boards and solder mine onto the replacement one.. job done.. no messing with the motors or anything else..

Try your local scrappy for one and do the same.. no recoding of keys necessary and mine's been working ever since (over 2 years now)
 
Ive upgraded the motor in mine so didnt replace the circuit board so no coding or vagcom involved, got a 4A0 pump for £20 so ive upgraded my pump youve probably got the same thinner type unless you have the earlier type then its all good.
 
I dont know the type i have... 99 T reg i've got. pretty sure a facelift but i havent got a clue tbh

Either way, replacing the pump or re soldering the PCB to a new unit would give the same results... mine was in and out in 30 mins though ;)
 
The thinner impellers have a black plastic pipe angled of and push fit to the housing, the earlier ones have a rubber 'y' pipe as pictured above ive only upgraded as i dont want to be in the same situation in months to come.

yeah it only takes minutes to remove the unit would be alot quicker if you didnt have to remove the stupid plastic boot trim lol either way im keyless again now and back on fob lol
 

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