Forge splitter bov 1.8t?

[Andyb5]

Hi all

i am looking to get a bov for my 2000 1.8t a4 but I want the noise of a dump valve. I know these engines need a recirculating valve. This forge splitter one seems to do the job of not mucking up the way the engine runs but still produces the noise I'm looking for. I know this is a much talked about subject but was hoping anyone could let me know if this bov will definitely not cause any engine running problems from personal experience if possible as they are not cheap at 160 quid so wana make sure my car will still run ok before buying and fitting. Also how loud are they? And are there any other options out there?

 

[Lox3n]

I have just got my 2000 a4 18t Quattro! love it haha want the same bov that your talking about be interesting to see what people say.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Split-R is neither a decent atmos valve or a recirculating valve... the only realistic way of getting more 'whoosh' is to get a remap (more boost and therefore more pressure to release to make the 'whoosh' noise) and a cone filter or panel filter at least... or buy a subaru....

I don't know what engine code your A4 is but if its drive by wire rather than a cable throttle then the ECU's don't like atmos valves of any kind... its like having a permanent airleak.. worst case is the engine will stall when dipping the clutch...

Split-R is a hateful piece of kit and every car I have seen with one of these fitted has running issues... winding it closed so it is no longer an atmos valve is pointless as this just turns it into an expensive but rubbish DV... best valve for not leaking and holding boost is the OEM valve...

<tuffty/>

 

[steady jay]

Tbh honest mines remapped with a cone filter and standard dv, by 3rd gear the world is rushing past so fast you won't be listening out for a whoosh. Previously I had a pre facelift with trumpet dv it ran like crap. it barely made a whoosh more of a cat sneeze and just spit oil everywhere.

 

[Andyb5]

Split-R is neither a decent atmos valve or a recirculating valve... the only realistic way of getting more 'whoosh' is to get a remap (more boost and therefore more pressure to release to make the 'whoosh' noise) and a cone filter or panel filter at least... or buy a subaru....

I don't know what engine code your A4 is but if its drive by wire rather than a cable throttle then the ECU's don't like atmos valves of any kind... its like having a permanent airleak.. worst case is the engine will stall when dipping the clutch...

Split-R is a hateful piece of kit and every car I have seen with one of these fitted has running issues... winding it closed so it is no longer an atmos valve is pointless as this just turns it into an expensive but rubbish DV... best valve for not leaking and holding boost is the OEM valve...

<tuffty/>

Thanks mate how do i tell if its drive by wire rather than a cable throttle? If my motor is a cable throttle then your saying there is less chance of issues with an atmos valve? Is there a certain year they changed from one to the other?? Buying a subaru isnt really an option i have had one of them before and have only had the audi 6 weeks dont think the wife would be too impresed if i went back to a scooby lol

But as far as having an atmospheric dv or bov there are no real solutions to having one on this engine without causing running issues? Surely there must be something out there?? ( i say that optimistically as really want that ppsssttt every time i change gear) i have seen a fair few vids of b5s with what apear to be atmospheric valves fitted are they just putting up with it running like **** to have that sound then?

 

[steady jay]

Audi switched cable throttle from 1999 onwards.

 

[Andyb5]

Audi switched cable throttle from 1999 onwards.

Switched from cable throttle or to cable throttle from 1999 onwards? Mines a 2000 x reg 1.8t

 

[<tuffty/>]

VAG engines work off a sealed intake system... it measures the volume of air drawn into the engine through the MAF and based on this works out how much fuel to inject at the appropriate time... when you let off the throttle and the DV 'dumps' the pressurised air in the charge system it recirculates the air back into the charge system back through the TIP... the ECU already knows how much air is in the system...

Using an atmos valve vents that 'measured' air... the ECU thinks it still has xx volume of air and fuels accordingly... however the air no longer exists, the mixture runs rich and 'floods' the engine... the affect can cause misfires and stalling...

VAG engines and management are just not designed to run this way... I have no doubt there will be a few people that will pop up saying 'it runs all right on my car' but in my experience these are the people that get turned away when wanting a remap as their cars are in such a state its a surprise the engine is running at all...

Boost (from a remap) and a decent cone filter is as good as it gets on these...

<tuffty/>

 

[steady jay]

From cable to wire, a plus side to that is you can get your ecu flashed like mine. It'll take minutes to do and bring your car to life and cost a few beers if you know someone with the software.

 

[Andyb5]

VAG engines work off a sealed intake system... it measures the volume of air drawn into the engine through the MAF and based on this works out how much fuel to inject at the appropriate time... when you let off the throttle and the DV 'dumps' the pressurised air in the charge system it recirculates the air back into the charge system back through the TIP... the ECU already knows how much air is in the system...

Using an atmos valve vents that 'measured' air... the ECU thinks it still has xx volume of air and fuels accordingly... however the air no longer exists, the mixture runs rich and 'floods' the engine... the affect can cause misfires and stalling...

VAG engines and management are just not designed to run this way... I have no doubt there will be a few people that will pop up saying 'it runs all right on my car' but in my experience these are the people that get turned away when wanting a remap as their cars are in such a state its a surprise the engine is running at all...

Boost (from a remap) and a decent cone filter is as good as it gets on these...

<tuffty/>

cheers for the good info mate really appreciate it, ill have a look at a remap and a decent cone filter instead then.

Can you recomend any good ones? Also would you be able to give me a roughish price i would be looking at for a remap on this engine? I really have no idea what sort of price i would be looking at???

Im in the north london/hertfordshire area so if anyone knows any good companys round this way which could do a remap for me too the contact would be really appreciated too

 

[AB5QTS]

I have a Forge Splittr on my 2000 1.8 TQS. It makes a nice sound and I have never (touch wood) had any running problems. I have the splittr set at about 15% atmos I think but it still gives the dump I wanted from my turbo. I also have a panel filter with a drilled out air box.

 

[Broken Byzan]

Avoid Split-r, get the newest std plastic one, No leaks then. Even the 007P leaks like a sieve.

As for getting it chipped, maybe Rick at unicorn or Niki @ R-tech

 

[Andyb5]

I have a Forge Splittr on my 2000 1.8 TQS. It makes a nice sound and I have never (touch wood) had any running problems. I have the splittr set at about 15% atmos I think but it still gives the dump I wanted from my turbo. I also have a panel filter with a drilled out air box.

hi mate how long you been running it with the forge splitter? And no issues at all no?? I really wanted that dump sound but i may go with a remap and decent induction kit first see how that sounds

 

[Bradderz_1988]

I run 007p with a open filter and it only sounds good when pushing it some mines ready for servicing soon as your meant to do it every 12 month iirc had no problems with it what so ever going to do it when i replace the turbo and manifold, the new forge 008 looks a great DV it a revised version off the 007p, all i will say is dont get a fully atmospheric one if you want a better sound as you will have a crap running car. Everyones different so choose your setup to your own needs people say dont run cone filters but others and myself do its entirely upto you at the end of the day you break it then its your own fault and you learn from your mistakes.

i had the forge splitter but never really got to use/see its potential as i swapped it for a 007p as thought it was causing my boost loss which then turned out yo be the wastegate valve in the turbine housing.

 

[AB5QTS]

Hi Andy,
Put the forge on, along with autobarn 88 fmic in 2009. Already had the miltek on then got the MRC custom remap with all bits fitted. Yep no probs. It does pop every now and then which may be a result of the valve but it is something that I enjoy when it happens. Just had MOT today and passed with just front pads, discs and a n aircon belt. Not bad for a 13 yr old. I say go for it. But that is my car.. Good luck