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Thread: clutch DIY

  1. #1
    jcb
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    clutch DIY

    so my clutch is about to give up on me.
    could really do without the pain of paying someone to do it but am thinking it might be easier to pull the engine than pull the gearbox.

    thoughts?

    anyone done this without a lift/ramp?

    I dont fancy manhandling the gearbox back on from underneath whilst on axle stands

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  3. #2
    Broken Byzan's Avatar
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    Iv'e done both ways, If i had a crane i'd do the engine out and probbly do some other jobs while i'm at it, .When i did the avant i didn't have a crane so dropped the box. Just make sure you check for oil leaks ont he first motion shaft. I have seen it twice now. I have a spare ready to go into mine when i drop the motor.

  4. #3
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    Do you have a 'DONK' friend who could throw the box in for a tinny lol it would be a lot kess hassle pulling the box rather than the box engine together IMO i find the boxes relatively easy on these cars compared to transverse cars the whole design off driveshaft flanges instead of losing gear oil makes it a doddle rather than oil going everywhere, is there not one off them garages near you were you can pay to use ramps and tools think scottB5 used one of these and had a good experience if your not willing to pay some one and do it on your back it might be the best way unless you have a 'DONK' lol sorry for the dundee quotes couldnt resist lol
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  5. #4
    jcb
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    cheers
    need to do some thinking

    next question....
    I have a Stage 3 Southbend clutch in place
    assuming it is not damaged or worn etc
    what is to stop me using the pressure plate again with a new friction disc?

  6. #5
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Assuming the southbend pressure plate is geometrically identical then nothing.

    Problem is you wont really know until its apart whats actually worn out!


    If you have a crane, pull the engine. If you have a lift drop the box.

    I wouldnt want to be crawling around on my back trying to get the box in or out!

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
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  7. #6
    jcb
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    yes my thoughts exactly!

    what if I no longer have a crane or access to a lift!?

    The Southbend is geometrically identical, they basically buy Sachs clutch chassis and fit their own springs

  8. #7
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Well if you have neither then the only option is to drop the box out manually while crawling around on your back underneath, not something i'd recommend really, though it can be done.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  9. #8
    Broken Byzan's Avatar
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    Get yourself a new box main shaft seal. I'd bet thats gone and contaminated the clutch

  10. #9
    jcb
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    you mean a crank rear Main seal or a seal in the box this will be its 3rd clutch not had leaks as yet

  11. #10
    Soupie69uk's Avatar
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    May as well take that miltek off while your under there!

    I would try to drop the box onto a crate or something so its easier to support for lifting. Its pretty heavy.

    Or speak to Barry and we can steal that exhaust while its up!
    A4 1.8T Quattro

  12. #11
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    he means the seal on the gearbox input shaft, behind the little tube that supports the clutch release bearing. They seem to fail and start leaking oil.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  13. #12
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    Go and buy a crane from Machine Mart or Sealey, much easier taking the engine out and not disturbing the prop and gearbox. I have done a b6 a4 today and about to do a 1.8TQS tomorrow, both engine out jobs !
    FOR SALE:
    -Golf mk 5/audi a3 1.6 FSI fuel pump, brand new genuine part boxed + seals
    -audi a3 (1998 to 2003) genuine clutch slave cylinder to fit 1.6 engines BRAND NEW
    -Rear bush press tool to fit new rear axle bushes on Golf Mk3/4, Audi a3/S3, Seat Leon/Toledo, Skoda Octavia mk 1/2 used once

  14. #13
    jcb
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    Have decided I am going to pull the engine and wheel it out the front

    will allow me to do the snub and engine mounts as well while I am at it
    Among other things i am bound to find!!

    next question:
    can I buy a friction plate by itself!?

  15. #14
    Arrkon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aragorn View Post
    I wouldnt want to be crawling around on my back trying to get the box in or out!
    Getting it out is easy... gettin it back in, Now thats Interesting...

    Did it on the side of the road, on axle stands. With the help of Jase (Voorhees). Not fun!
    Currently rolling in a SKODA!!!

  16. #15
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    the trouble is not havin the engine level. you have to have the rear higher to get it ion straight,

    when i do my clutch its not going to be cheap, but then the £300 saved will go on a hd clutch, timing belt and tensioner, slave cylinder and water pump and any other bits i can change while its out.
    i can access a ramp but in a garage so if i have to leave it there over night they wouldnt be happy!

    whats best way? lift engine and then remove enigne mounts from block? is it easy to get up and round to disconnect clutch slave?
    and any other bits that might snag on way down?

 

 

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