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  1. #1
    AudiA4B596's Avatar
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    Rclick Remote Locking - Help Please?

    Hey, Ive recently been working on my new Rclick Remote Central Locking Kit... the one in the link here...
    Rightclick

    Managed to get everything working including the siren, the lights, remote antenna, led blinker etc, but cant seem to get the remote central locking wired up correctly.

    My first problem was when I was following the guide to which wires to link to which...

    My rclick guide says to connect white/black to grey/white 12-pin and
    white to brown/grey 12-pin, but I do not have brown/grey and I tried every other wire? :S

    This picture shows my central locking (pump?) and the attempt Ive made.
    http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...7/DSC_1059.jpg


    So then I opened up the drivers door to see what I could find...
    Note: I do not have a internal switch on the door or dash for the central locking.

    There was a five wired plug to the actuator..
    http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...7/DSC_1054.jpg
    http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...7/DSC_1053.jpg
    http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...7/DSC_1050.jpg

    And I tested them with my digital multimeter.
    My results were..

    Colour ---------Locked --------------Unlocked ------------Same colour near Pump in rear.

    Brown -----------+0.12 ---------------+0.12 -----------------No
    Brown/Yellow -----0 ---------------------0--------------------No
    Brown/White-------0 ---------------------0 -------------------Yes
    Yellow/blue ------+12v ----------------+12v -----------------Yes
    Red/Blue ----------+12v ---------------+12v -----------------Yes

    And I also saw theres twin (2 wires) to the key mech (actually broken) which I also tested...
    They are inside a grey outer cable. Not sure if these are relevant?
    http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...7/DSC_1055.jpg
    http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...7/DSC_1056.jpg

    Colour ------------Locked-------- Unlocked ---------- Same colour near Pump in rear.
    Red/Brown --------+1.13 -----------+1.13 -----------No
    Brown---------------- 0--------------- 0 ----------------No




    So originally I though my central locking system was Type E (aka TYPE1) (Electrically activated vacuum systems), and the rclick guide and some sources online are saying its most likely Type B (aka TYPE2) (Negative Triggered) for this car, but now I'm starting to think its the Type A (aka TYPE3) (Positive Triggered) because of all the positive multimeter test finds ?????

    I also tried on the rear boot locking connection cables to see any difference as its closer to where Im working and found a 3-pin plug which I also tested.
    http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...7/DSC_1057.jpg

    Colour ------------Locked -------------- Unlocked ----------- Same colour near Pump in rear.
    Black/White --- +11.72 ------------ +11.72 ------------- No
    Brown --------------0 ---------------------0------------------- No
    Yellow/White----+11.4 ----------------+11.4---------------No

    IF ANYONE COULD HELP ME FIGURE OUT WHICH TYPE OF SYSTEM I HAVE AND WHICH WIRES I NEED TO CONNECT TO WHICH WOULD BE OF GREAT HELP. MANY THANKS, TOM


    http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...7/DSC_1049.jpg
    Last edited by AudiA4B596; 6th July 2012 at 01:18.

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  3. #2
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    whats the part number off your locking pump and i'll tell you what wires you need to use.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  4. #3
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    Hey aragorn, if you can help me with this you'll be my star!

    Okay, So I've looked at the pump, it has these 3 numbers on it and I believe its the first one...
    (4 A0 862 257 A) (PP GF 30) (18/9630046)
    http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...7/DSC_1061.jpg
    http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...7/DSC_1063.jpg
    http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...7/DSC_1066.jpg


    The pump has two connections on it (6-Pin Black) and (12-Pin White).

    Into these connections go these wires..

    6-Pin (BLACK/VIOLET PLUG)
    1. BROWN 2. - 3. RED/BLUE 4. - 5. - 6. -

    12-Pin (BLACK -white inside- PLUG)
    1. BLUE/BLACK
    2. RED
    3. GREY/WHITE
    4. BLUE/RED
    5. GREEN/BLUE
    6. BROWN/WHITE
    7. RED (LOOPS TO 9.)
    8. -
    9. RED (LOOPS TO 7.)
    10. BROWN/WHITE
    11. BLUE/YELLOW
    12. BROWN/WHITE
    http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...7/DSC_1068.jpg
    http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...7/DSC_1071.jpg

    Do you know which wiring diagram I should use in regards to
    negative triggered, postive triggered, or Electrically Activated Vacuum?

    Thanks alot,

    Tommy
    Last edited by AudiA4B596; 6th July 2012 at 17:44.

  5. #4
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    you want negative trigger.

    I'll look up the wire for you later, i'm just heading out for dinner.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  6. #5
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    Talking

    Got the remote locking working now, linked off the rear boot lock, the wires were WHITE/BLACK and WHITE/YELLOW and were in the opposite side of the boot cabin (I didnt have to go into the boot door!), so it was a neat job! Got to do the remote starter tomorrow so might need some help with that also, see how it goes! Thanks for the help, it saved a lot of time knowing it was a negative system! Aragorn, you are the man!
    Last edited by AudiA4B596; 7th July 2012 at 00:50.

  7. #6
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    Was wondering if you know how to disable the factory immobiliser?

    The kit has its own immobiliser and the new keys and remote start wont work with this factory ignition immobiliser.

    Is it possible to just chop the two identical yellow cables and join them?

  8. #7
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    The immobiliser is part of the ECU, there is no cables to cut and join, the ECU simply wont let the engine run if the key isnt present, and TBH its FAR better than any aftermarket addon ever will be.

    Just move the immo transponder from the original key into the new one. I did this on my RClick kit and it works perfectly. You need to be very careful removing the transponder though, i carefully pared the plastic away from around it until it came free then fitted it to the rclick key with a spot of bluetack.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  9. #8
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    Okay I'll give the key opening and swapping a go later tonight, thanks.

    Tried hooking up the window rollup from rclick today...
    Rightclick

    No Luck
    Thought I'd done a perfect job and no reward, although i havnt used the ACC wire.
    Is it important to use this, i have wired it through with the others so it wouldnt be a problem, just dont like splicing wires near the ignition when I have plans to go out in 30 mins.

    Ive got the negative input on the alarm controller so used negative but i have tried both, theres definately power to the window module as I tested and the window wires seem okay, so Im thinking the ACC wire is all it can be?

    If anyones had a go at this and knows anything please let me know? Thanks

  10. #9
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    Swapped over the transponder last night, your right, its a delicate job, just took my time with it and it went well, tried it thismorning and works fine, shall order another transponder for the other key, may need help programming it later, thanks a lot aragorn!!!

    Anyone know about the window module???

  11. #10
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    I didnt bother connecting the window thing up, as reading the manual it activates on EVERY lock, and i decided i didnt want all four window motors straining to jam the windows into the top of the door frame every time i locked the car.

    Looking at that module, i wonder if its designed to control the motors directly? Seen as it mentiones safety cutouts etc.

    The Audi window motors have an ECU/Control unit built into them, and this ECU will only allow the windows to operate when it gets an "OK" signal from the central locking control unit. With the ignition off and you having got out and locked the car, that OK signal will no longer be present.


    Unfortunately these rclick kits are really designed for much older cars. Try to install it into an old nova/corsa or a escort or something then it'd all go without a hitch, but the B5 is right on the start of the modern car era with electronics controlling everything. When i installed mine, i just connected up the basics to allow me to remotely unlock the car from a few feet away, and left it at that.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  12. #11
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    Talking

    Yes that makes sense, i hooked the wires to the switch in the door, but ill try to hook them to the motors directly and see if that helps, i didnt think of that before as i didnt think it would be a problem. thanks aragorn, let you know how i get on with that later....

    Do you know which transponder or how i can find out what transponder i need for the other key? Ive seen many different ones on ebay?
    Thanks again,
    Tom

  13. #12
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    Is it this one I need? For audi 1996 model?

    Rightclick

    Thanks :-)

  14. #13
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    I think so, but tbh i cant be sure.

    To program it you'll need vagtacho to get the cars SKC and program the new key.

    I doubt you'll be able to connect the window thing directly to the motors, the ECU is built into the motor housing, and theres about 8pins going into it for different things.
    Last edited by aragorn; 8th July 2012 at 17:28.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  15. #14
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    I always thought the Window Auto Closure was controlled by the Central Locking Pump?
    When I had a water leak from the rear window and water got into the pump, my windows would open everytime I turned on the ignition. Changed the pump for a 2nd hand one and it stopped.
    Well done for getting the RClick to work, the wiring diagram that comes with the kit is incorrect!

  16. #15
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    Hi Folks

    I just registered here as a Google turned up with this thread for my problem.

    Ive a similar alarm that i have problems with. I want to do basically what aragorn did and just have the remote locking the doors and arming alarm from a few feet away. Dont need windows winding up or lights blinking etc..

    So far i have the main unit hooked up to power, led, siren and shock sensor.

    All i want to know is how do i wire it up to the doors so that alarm doesnt arm itself after 30 seconds automatically if door isnt left open? Alarm right now is switching itself on while im unloading shopping for example even if door is open / unlocked.

    Obviously it should auto arm itself 30 seconds after i lock door rather than 30 seconds after i stop car.

    Car is an Audi a4 b5 1.6 ARM engine code year 2000

    Thanks in advance.

 

 

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