just done a vagcom read :-(

[audi-a6]

as from my last topic, i had a couple of problems, so i bought a vagcom and done a read, this is what i got

dtc05?
17963 = boost pressure exceeded
16502 = engine coolant temp sensor(is that why my temp gauge dont work?)
17968 =

Maximum Engine Speed Exceeded warrenty void (dont think i need to worrie about this one)​

17964 = Charge Pressure Control: Negative Deviation
17978 = engine blocked by immobiliser (not worried about this one, as i think it was when i used a key that was not set to the car)


so, where do i start, would you agree i need to buy, an n75 valve, maf, map sensor and coolant temp sensor?

 

[Arrkon]

as from my last topic, i had a couple of problems, so i bought a vagcom and done a read, this is what i got

dtc05?
17963 = boost pressure exceeded blocked/damaged recirc valve or sticking vanes
16502 = engine coolant temp sensor(is that why my temp gauge dont work?) good starting point, may be the cause of some of the other codes
17968 =

Maximum Engine Speed Exceeded warrenty void (dont think i need to worrie about this one) wouldnt worry about it, sometimes occurs on a downhill coast and the like​

17964 = Charge Pressure Control: Negative Deviation conflicts with 17963
17978 = engine blocked by immobiliser (not worried about this one, as i think it was when i used a key that was not set to the car) correct

so, where do i start, would you agree i need to buy, an n75 valve, maf, map sensor and coolant temp sensor?

See above, CTS would be the first trial. as i may have an effect on the others.

though did you clear them then do a run? some of them may be very old and as such, you cant see the forest for the trees...

 

[aragorn]

Do the CTS first.

The boost pressure codes are probably due to a leak. First thing you should be doing before changing anything is to have the system pressure tested. No point changing parts until your sure what you've got is sound.

The maximum engine speed thing means you've overrevved it at some point, ie downshifting to a gear that puts the engine over the rev limiter.

 

[audi-a6]

where is the cts on these engines?

a leak? but generally it holds boost fine, also not the dv as it done it with the old ones and i have just put bran new forge atmospheric dv's

 

[audi-a6]

and i guess this is what i need Temperature Gauge Sensor & Clip & Seal Replaces VAG no. 059919501A temp sender | eBay

 

[audi-a6]

See above, CTS would be the first trial. as i may have an effect on the others.

though did you clear them then do a run? some of them may be very old and as such, you cant see the forest for the trees...

yeah did a run, the only one that did not come back up is, the engine speed one and the imobiliser one

 

[audi-a6]

just did another run and just got code 17964 and 00532

 

[audi-a6]

i think i do need to change the n75 valve, so will this work eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace

 

[audi-a6]

anyone?

 

[aragorn]

I've told you what to do.

Pressure test the engine.

If your going to ignore the advice then why ask it in the first place?

These engines are prone to boost leaks, and when they occur you get all the faults your experiencing.

Alternatively, **** your money away randomly replacing parts without any sort of diagnostic process and stop asking us what to do.

 

[audi-a6]

Okay, didn't mean to up set any one, all I was asking was were they the right parts!

Any way, what's the easiest way to pressure test?

And the reason I asked again was, I thought if I had a boost leak the problem would be there all the time, maybe not....

 

[aragorn]

Buy a boost leak tester from ebay, and use it with a compressor to pressurise the inlet tract to say 1bar and see what happens.

 

[audi-a6]

Buy a boost leak tester from ebay, and use it with a compressor to pressurise the inlet tract to say 1bar and see what happens.

okay, thanks, just ordered one, will let you know the out come

 

[audi-a6]

Finally got round to doing a boost leak test, but could not get the intake to pressurise, any ideas why? I put the tester on the intake (took off the maf) took the oil breather pipe off and blocked the little pipe that the breather was connected to, do I need to block the other end?

 

[aragorn]

Nope, either not enough flow, or a huge leak.

What were you using to pressurise the inlet? You ideally need a proper compressor with an air tank, a little tyre inflator wont push enough air fast enough to overcome leakdown, as air will naturally leak past the piston rings etc.

If it was a proper compressor then let it fill the tank to 100psi then turn off the power, that way theres no compressor noise clattering away in the background, then start pumping the air in and listen round the engine to pinpoint the leak (ie hissing)

 

[Blue_Thunder]

It helps to have the engine warm to reduce any pressure lost past the piston rings. I also used to have some weird issue where I would sometimes need to put my finger over the breather pipe until it had reached pressure.

But Aragorn is spot on. Either you're not using a compressor, or you have a huge *** leak!

ps. remember to take the oil filler cap off before you pressurise

 

[audi-a6]

Well it can't be a big leak as generally the car drive fine, but I am just using a tyre compressor, but I would of thought it would still work a bit?

 

[Blue_Thunder]

No, it won't, they simply don't flow enough. You might get away with using a petrol station tyre inflator.

I did the same when I first bought a pressure tester and bought a tyre compressor that could "fully inflate an empty tyre in 2 minutes" (which I guess is total bull**** anyway!). You need a decent amount of air in there.

 

[audi-a6]

well thats justot typical lol well i think i will just get the garage to do it when they do my cambelt and thermostat