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Thread: AFN Non Starter

  1. #1
    Reverse Gear

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    Question AFN Non Starter

    Having a spot of bother with my 1.9TDi Quattro. I dropped it off at the garage Thursday morning for the MOT, it passed the MOT and when I went to pick it up I asked them to try and free off one of the rear track rod bolts and when they tried to start it, it was turning over for ages and eventually started and ran (as if it has sucked air into the fuel system and was self-bleeding). The mechanic drove it onto the ramp and tried to undo the bolt, it was siezed solid so he went to start the car to pull it off the ramp and no joy. It turns over but doesn't want to start or run.

    It will start and run when using Easystart, by that I mean it will start and run until the easystart has burnt off and then it dies. The mechanics cracked off the pipes on the tops of the injectors and all 4 were spurting diesel so it's getting fuel and air as the Easystart was sprayed in through the air intake via the filter. It doesn't sound like it's turning over slowly, but the starter and battery could also be suspect. The battery appears to be the original one as it is dated 1997 and has done 178k miles if so. I've got a few spare batteries so will charge one up and give it a go. They were able to get it towed and it ran above 3k, when below this is stuttered and wanted to die, and if you didn't keep your foot down it would die.

    I'm thinking possibly my fuel pump as I have been getting error 01268 for a few months now. The only code he was able to pull off using his system was the same as above, and when cleared didn't return. This isn't a suprise as it will only come back when the car's running, and obviously it currently isn't! The other thought is that the timing belt has jumped on the pump only as it ran when towed and on easystart so the timing on the crank and cam seems ok. If the pump had jumped a tooth, would it run above 3k revs ok, but be rough below that?

    The only other work the mechanics did on the car other than the MOT was to screw the fuel pipes to the underside of the car as all the mounting clips had given up and I wasn't able to get them screwed up in time. The fuel pipe does have a few crushed sections, but not badly enough to affect fuel flow say the garage. I have previously replaced a small section of very crushed pipe and this made no difference to the running so I doubt this slight crushing will be the cause.

    Fuel filter was replaced a few months ago, and it's definately got diesel in as I fill up every week (do 500+ miles per week) and it currently running about half a tank. I have noticed recently that I have been getting slightly lower MPG and the car has seemed slightly down on power, but I don't think it's ever been perfect since I got it so I have no bench mark for performance. Not that this probably has anything to do with the non-starting fault.

    Thanks for reading all this, I thought it best to give a full description to help other members to diagnose. Hopefully somebody else will have some other ideas or have had similar problems and have a solution. Hoping to get the car back home later on today so should get a chance to look at it tomorrow, weather depending.

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  3. #2
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    Try blanking off the egr valve.

    But that code 01268 is the quantity adjuster on the fuel pump check for corrosion on the pins if all is good the you may be into a New/recon/2nd hand fuel pump.

    Is fuel filter facing in the right direction ??
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F21 Kit - 3" MAF - Saab Reds - THS Decat - Non Res Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - PFR6Q Plugs - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do/planned -Eibach pro's - GT2871/76R + FMIC + ME7 (maybe) + Engine/stroker Build

  4. #3
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    I'm assuming the filter is facing the right direction as it's one of the big cylinder type ones and was replaced a few months back and we've had no problems since fitting.

    Yep, code 01268 is the quantity adjuster on the pump. I've tried a second QA (I'm assuming the QA is the top half of the pump) and I've still got the same problem which points to the pump itself.

  5. #4
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    Right, front end currently hanging off the car, timing checked and it would seem as though the timing is fine. The injector pump lock hole lines up when the marks on the cam pulley align with the marks on the head (this car was previously owned by a garage so no reason to doubt the markings), rotated the engine by hand and marking lined up again. I was wondering whether doing the hammer mod would work, so I am going to give that a try in a few minutes. Other than that, other things are that I'm not seeing the rev counter bounce when trying to start the car, although when getting towed back last night, if I let the clutch out then the rev counter was working.

    Anything else I can watch out for/test? In all reality, I'm thinking that the pump has gone, but was wondering if there was any was I could test it? I'm wondering if it's not actually making enough pressure to open the injectors properly until it gets up to 3k revs.

  6. #5
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    Update time, still not running yet. I've now done the timing belt and changed the injection pump for a 2nd hand unit. Primed the system and tried to start it. It turns over but doesn't want to start up. I've cracked the injector pipes so I know there's diesel to all the injectors, tested the fuel pump and it doesn't work off the ignition (suspected break in wire between fuse and pump as fuse ok and if 12v applied to wire at fuse end I can't hear the pump).

    I've had VAGCOM hooked up while cranking it over and seeing injected quantities of up to 50mg. I'm also getting no fault codes coming up from turning it over.

    I do have some other issues which I think could be related and could be the real problem. My glow plug light has been dim for some time now, and after doing some investigating I've found that this could be related to relay 219 under the ECU cover, so I'm going to go to a scrappies later on and see if I can't liberate said relay. This relay controls the power to the ECU and also has something to do with the fuel pump and glowplugs. I'm also going to see if I can get one of my neighbours to give me a tow and see if I can get her going that way. I suppose the crank sensor could also have something to do with the non-starting, but wouldn't that throw up a fault code?

    I haven't tested the glowplugs, but can't see those being the problem at this stage.

    Other than the relays or crank sensor does anyone have any other ideas? This is starting to really get to me now and I need to get this car back on the road ASAP as we're struggling with one car.

    Thanks
    Last edited by himbigchief; 18th January 2012 at 12:31.

 

 

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