ABS ring damaged?

Oranoco

Oranoco

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Right, today has been a total sh*t of a day. Changing the back brakes has taken almost 7Hrs. 3 of the 4 caliper carrier allen bolts were so siezed on we had aa pig of a job to remove them and I now need 4 new ones. Then to add insult one the ABS rings mishaped upon removal despite the care taken. Now have ABS warning light up and a big red warning on the DIS. Is it normal for both warning lights to be up?

And I still have the vague steering at speed and vibration despite all arms being inspected closely and the whole front end being polybushed.

Unless the issues get sorted sharpish it will be getting broken up in the new year.
 
The rings arent dear new.

The warning you get depends on the age of the car. Our '96 went mental with a missing ring, three beeps and a big (!) on the DIS. The facelift recently had a busted ABS sensor and all it did was bring on the yellow ABS light.

Vibration and vagueness could be faulty upper balljoints. Otherwise the only thing that can really cause vibration is a bent wheel or misshapen tyre. Our old car had a dodgy set of front arms, which caused vibration, and managed to wear the tyres on the front egg shaped.
 
Going to order a set of new bolts and ring from the dealer on Monday.

All ball joints are 100% fine, every arm has been inspected on the car and off when fitting polybushes. Tyres were changed not long back and vagueness and vibration were there before and after, wheels have also been swspped front to back with no change. It was suggested to check tge rack mounts themselves. Bent wheel should have been shown up when tyred were fitted?

It feels like something is really loose at the front of the car at about 80 the steering gets very light and vague with the vibration.
 
When ours had the dodgy balljoints it would start vibrating around 75, but unlike the usual wheel balancing wobble you couldnt pull thru it, it just got worse and worse, by 90mph it felt like it was trying to leave the road and was almost impossible to hold it streight.

What about the track rod ends and/or inner rack ends?
 
Symptoms do sound identical to mine mate. TRE's were changed for S4 items when I polybushed it. Haven't looked at inner TRE's. Will have to do that. It's ruining a car for me that I'm otherwise very pleased with
 
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I have similar systoms myself with the front of my TDI seeming to float away from about 50MPH. It can fell very dangerous sometimes so im going to start with the track rods as ive already done the arms.I also had the same problem with the allen key bolts which rounded off and were an absolute b*llocks to get off. I changed them for normal bolts from a nut/bolt hardware shop for future ease when working at the brakes.
 
I replaced both rear discs just over a year ago, and needed to source new ABS rings as the old ones were flimsy pressed-steel jobbies that really looked past their best.
Ended up buying Genuine rings from the dealer (443 614 149A) which cost £14.51 each before discount, they appeared to be cast iron and much more substantial than the presumably repro ones that came off..........
 
Good old main stealer. New ring arrived this morning and I received a text to say it and my bolts had come in. Popped in only to find he had ordered the carrier to caliper bolts not the carrier to hub assembly bolts :(

I opted to get the ring fitted and was rather pleased how eay it was. 40mins all in including getting tools out, tidying up, locking up garage and putting the kettle on :)

As soon as the bolts arrive tomorrow I am planning to nip home over lunch to get them fitted and I'm good to go...... well.... apart from that annoying vague wandering feeling and vibration :(
 
Oranoco said:
I opted to get the ring fitted and was rather pleased how eay it was. 40mins all in including getting tools out, tidying up, locking up garage and putting the kettle on :)
Click to expand...

Just wondered how you got the rear axle shaft out? Can I simply remove the splined bolts at the differential (and the axle driveshaft bolt) - which will allow enough access to withdraw the shaft completely. This is on the driver's side.

My ABS started playing up a few weeks ago (kicks in intermittently) and someone suggested a broken reluctor ring. Had a look earlier today but blowing a gale and then it started to snow! I did look at removing the ABS sensor to look inside the hub, but the allen bolt holding it in place is goosed and no chance of removing. I don't have any ABS errors on the dash, and have already completed brake bleed all round. Haven't had it checked with VAGcom.

I also read something about a gasket at the differential side. Is this right, and will I need a new one?

Cheers for any advice.
 
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Get a splinned tool and take the driveshaft off/split it at the diff flange. You could use mole grips on the allen bolt but they shear easily ! If you have leaky diff seals then you can do that as well just make sure you dont scratch the diff surface where the seal goes as you'll have leaks again. Also make sure you can open the filler and drain plugs before they known to round off !
 
adamss24 said:
Get a splinned tool and take the driveshaft off/split it at the diff flange. You could use mole grips on the allen bolt but they shear easily ! If you have leaky diff seals then you can do that as well just make sure you dont scratch the diff surface where the seal goes as you'll have leaks again. Also make sure you can open the filler and drain plugs before they known to round off !
Click to expand...

Thanks for that adamss24. The outside of the rear diff is dry with no leaks. The gear oil was changed last spring. I take it if I remove the axle driveshaft, I won't lose fluid, I just need to watch I don't damage the rubber seal?
 
diff seals are a piece of pi$$. you wont scratch it

and no you wont lose fluid if you pull the driveshaft. the flange is solid in the middle (i.e no hole for fluid to leak out)

I would be tempted to do the seals anyway, you never know, the unusual movement in pulling the shaft could be enough to start a leak you didnt have before!

I did a rear end rebuild thread a while back with pictures and description.
Soupie did one on here as well
 
jcb said:
I would be tempted to do the seals anyway, you never know, the unusual movement in pulling the shaft could be enough to start a leak you didnt have before!
Click to expand...

Thanks for that. I'll stick to pulling the axle-shaft just now. This is my daily drive and the exhaust side looks like a complete PITA. Just hoping the damaged reluctor ring is on the driver's side.
 
The stub axle wont come out of the diff when you remove the shaft, so you wont distrub the rubber seal at all.

I found it particularly hard to get the CV to come unstuck from the stub axle though, it required someone pulling on the shaft while i beat the CV joint casing with a hammer.
 
aragorn said:
I found it particularly hard to get the CV to come unstuck from the stub axle though, it required someone pulling on the shaft while i beat the CV joint casing with a hammer.
Click to expand...

I'm planning to just renew the ABS ring, so won't have to separate the CV joint from the axle. I've broken a CV joint before because I was a little 'heavy handed' with a lump hammer. I use a rubber mallet for this type of work unless it's seized.
 
aragorn said:
The stub axle wont come out of the diff when you remove the shaft, so you wont distrub the rubber seal at all.

I found it particularly hard to get the CV to come unstuck from the stub axle though, it required someone pulling on the shaft while i beat the CV joint casing with a hammer.
Click to expand...

Cheers for that. I'm only planning to renew the CV ring, so hopefully won't need to replace the CV joint, although saying that, the prices of CV joints on Fleabay (including the ring) are tempting. I normally go for GKN Driveline CVs and boots - can't beat their quality.

I've broken a front CV joint (shoulder) before because I whacked it a little hard. I now use a rubber mallet, where possible, unless it refuses to budge.
 
I didnt mean to replace the CV, just to remove it from the diff.

Its a slight interference fit into the drive flange, and also theres a rubberised seal round it, and the two of them together means that once you've undone the bolts the joint doesnt just pop off. I tried pummelling it, but nothing happened, it only came off when i had the missus applying a constant pull to the shaft while i hit the joint with a hammer and chisel.
 
aragorn said:
it only came off when i had the missus applying a constant pull to the shaft while i hit the joint with a hammer and chisel.
Click to expand...

fnarr fnarr!
what about the Cv joint?

sorry, I will get my coat......
 
Stripped both rear axle drive-shafts out today. The ABS ring was split on the driver's side. Part now on order. Straight forward job apart from the passenger side, as the exhaust has to drop slightly. The ABS ring was okay on that side, but I wanted to double-check. I had to release the upper strut arm (19mm bolt) in order for the axle shaft to be pulled out.

Good detective work Adamss24! :thumbsup:

DSCF0571.jpg
 
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