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Thread: best way to do this engine swap

  1. #1
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    best way to do this engine swap

    got the new engine today APU with 84k miles
    doing the swap on saturday... trying to think of fastest way to do this

    1st option pull only engine out meaning to split tranny off it in engine bay
    2nd option to pull engine and tranny at once and dissasemble after

    ???

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  3. #2
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    I've done a few now and left the tranny in place.

    Its pretty easy to get at all the bolts on a 4cylinder.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
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  4. #3
    Arrkon's Avatar
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    ive always left the transmisson in place... easy enough access to the fixings on the bellhousing.
    Currently rolling in a SKODA!!!

  5. #4
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    I'd say pull the tranny out with the engine then swap it over to your other engine while it's out that's what I'd do rather than leaving the tranny off I'd look at doing the clutch and timing belt at same time whilst you've got the front end of and be giving that engine you've got a good check over before you put it in !
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F4 Kit - THS Decat - Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do - F21 Upgrade - 3" Maf/Saab red Injectors
    WANTED : Cheap 02/52 Passat 1.8T AWT Manual

  6. #5
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Its just more work though. You've got to split the driveshafts off, detatch the gear linkage (one bolt of which is a COMPLETE arse), split the clutch hydraulic circuit, drop the prop out if its a quattro etc etc, then refit all those items again after.

    And then you still have to unbolt the engine from the box anyway once its all on the floor.

    Unless it needs to come out, or your dealing with a V6 motor where access is ****, leave the tranny where it is!

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
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  7. #6
    Arrkon's Avatar
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    I assume its the "hex" or "allen" bolt which is the arse to get out?
    Currently rolling in a SKODA!!!

  8. #7
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    aye, its the stabiliser rod that bolts to the side of the box. Near impossible to get tools into.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  9. #8
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    Wonder what idiot at Audi's design team figured that was a good idea, must have spent about an hour trying to remove the bolt without bending the bracket (which I ended up doing) Another other fantasic design feature is haveing to drop the subframe to remove the front-end lower rear arm.

  10. #9
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Which bolt/bracket? the stabiliser i mentioned is a solid rod bolted to the side of the tranny.

    Yeh, and more stupidly, if you fit the bolt for the lower rear arm backwards, you dont need to touch the subframe!

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  11. #10
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    I think I have to see tomorow after i prep the motor to come out will see if there is really enough room to get to the tranny bolts
    I prefer to split it in the engine bay...
    dont wanna do all the extra work with removing tranny... axles.. all that stuff

    btw aragorn its not a quattro and not a V6 just a good old 1.8T

    keep in mind im doing this in the shop I work at, there is plenty of space and tools to use
    jack stands.. engine lifts, all necessery stuff

    Ill have most of the day to do it and help will be just a foot away
    I got started on it today had an extra hour of work
    bumper was a ***** to pull off as the previous owner changed the timing belt himself and messed up everything...
    most bolts were wounded badly some where missing completly wires hanging everywhere all around the fan
    total mess in there
    I hope i get it cracking fairly quickly tomorow

  12. #11
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Theres definately enough room to get the engine to transmission bolts out with the engien in the car.

    I've personally done it twice.

    The only thing you need to do is lift the engine slightly to get access to the four bolts that go thru from the sump into the gearbox, as the crossmember is in the way otherwise.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  13. #12
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    Ye as Aragon says really just remove the two 13mm nuts of the bottom of both engine mounts and use a tranny jack (I use the a/c pump mounting bracket) jack it up and you should have enough clearance for the bottom 4 bolts patience is necessary lol then just lower the engine back down till your ready for out !
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F4 Kit - THS Decat - Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do - F21 Upgrade - 3" Maf/Saab red Injectors
    WANTED : Cheap 02/52 Passat 1.8T AWT Manual

  14. #13
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    got the engine out today without the tranny... took me about 4 hours
    (wasnt in a hurry... didnt wanna fukup anything)
    managed to get the new engine on there took me about 15 min to connect it back to the tranny
    when I got to the turbo and took it off .... surprise surprise the nut on the shaft was missing
    maybe that caused the engine to fuk up???
    most wires are now connected... i got the starter back on and the AC
    will have some more time to work on it tomorow so I can do my timing belt, tensioner, a/c belt, power steering belt and maybe assemble the front end
    dont know if I will have enough time as boss says half day tomorow

    old engine coming out

    gutted

    where is the nut ???

    new engine going in

  15. #14
    Arrkon's Avatar
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    I can't see how the nut could make it from there into the engine as all of the fins on the compressor wheel are still intact, and besides, dont think it would get past the intercooler. Done a good job there though Teo, like the novel hoist arrangement. These are one of the easier cars to do an engine pull on IMHO.
    teo420 likes this.
    Currently rolling in a SKODA!!!

  16. #15
    Arrkon's Avatar
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    Did you get it all sorted in the end Teo? Any updates?
    Currently rolling in a SKODA!!!

  17. #16
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    yea getting there
    will be completed tomorow
    new turbo came in today
    had to swap the exhaust housing from the old turbo as this one was second hand and housing was cracked in many places
    few pics
    old turbo is totally destroyed after i opened it today here is what I discovered
    broken in 2 places---- both turbine wheels where broken off

    Last edited by teo420; 4th July 2011 at 21:14.

  18. #17
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    what a mess huh ? LOL
    its all put back together
    now all i gotta do is drop it in the car put some oil and coolant in engine and start the fuker up


    anyone up for a race

  19. #18
    Arrkon's Avatar
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    Ouch yeah that's shot. That's what happens when the turbo runs devoid of oil (usually the sludge monster striking) just make sure when it's running properly, that you do regular oil changes. Lol. As for the race, you got no chance. I'd leave you for dust lmao (you should treat it gently first of anyway )
    Currently rolling in a SKODA!!!

  20. #19
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    car is running
    started up right away
    having problems with the oil temp gauge.. voltage gauge and temp light that stays on
    any ideas what this might cause these problems
    all cables are connected 100 % sure of that

  21. #20
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Check the voltage with a voltmeter, if its actually up at 16v+ as the guage suggests then stop driving it until you fix the alternator or you'll cook the battery and electrics.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  22. #21
    Arrkon's Avatar
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    x1 with what aragorn has said about the alternator.

    The coolant warning in the centre, could be you missed the connector on the bottom of the coolant header? god knows i've done that a few times lol.

    Whats up with the oil temp? is it not moving?
    Currently rolling in a SKODA!!!

  23. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rconn View Post
    Whats up with the oil temp? is it not moving?
    it moved first time I had the car running it was all normal up to 120degree
    about an hour later not much movement

  24. #23
    Bradderz_1988's Avatar
    Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    120' is quite high as mine rarely see's 100.
    1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Sport - Volcano Black

    Mods - Frankenturbo F4 Kit - THS Decat - Milltek - ECS Crank Pulley - 034 Snub + Bracket/Gbox Mounts - 1Z/S2 Clutch + Flywheel - 007p - ICM + EVAP Delete - S4 B6 345mm Brakes - 300mm Rear Brakes - Goodridge Hoses - LCR Splitter -S4 Bumbers + Skirts/Mouldings - OEM Xenons - Apikol Diff mounts - Polytek'd Rear Diff Mount
    To do - F21 Upgrade - 3" Maf/Saab red Injectors
    WANTED : Cheap 02/52 Passat 1.8T AWT Manual

  25. #24
    Arrkon's Avatar
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    yeah, im lucky if i get mine up to 90 after a good booting
    Currently rolling in a SKODA!!!

  26. #25
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Mine sits at 90 after about 10mins of driving and stays there. If it stays below 90 after 10-15mins driving its possible your thermostat is getting a bit lazy and the engine is running cool. The coolant temp guage lies, and displays 90 for a range of "normal" temps, whereas the oil one doesnt lie, and shows the actual temp.

    You need to fix the voltage problem before you break things.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  27. #26
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    got the alternator and battery all checked out today
    its just a bad gauge all voltage from alternator to battery is normal (battery gets a charge of 13 - 14 volts) so thats all normal
    I noticed that when the car is shut off with the key out of the ignition the voltage shows 8v... so i figured just the needle is messed up and doesnt work properly... will have to take the cluster out this weekend and try to adjust it... I also need to try and fix the pixel issue
    got rid of the coolant light (it was just me being stupid and forgot to hook up the wire to the coolant tank) :D

    lots more work will need to be done to this car to get it in shape but all coming together nicely
    front bushing on anti roll bar need to be changed and there is a rear wheel bearing that needs changing
    ton of body work (adjust front bumper... head lights...detailed cleaning and polishing...ext. )

    already loving the car and its 150 HP

  28. #27
    Arrkon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teo420 View Post
    got rid of the coolant light (it was just me being stupid and forgot to hook up the wire to the coolant tank) :D
    I knew it

    Personal preference, but i wouldnt bother with the LCD repair. Its only £50 if you can do it yourself, but its tricky unless you have a bar type soldering iron. and to have it repaired, your looking £150+, yours doesnt look too bad tbh, theres a hell of a lot worse ones.

    Love my A4 with its new clutch and 17psi of boost
    Currently rolling in a SKODA!!!

 

 

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