audi 2.5 tdi noisy after pump change

davek

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Hi
Just changed the diesel injection pump on my 1999 a4 2.5 diesel.
It sounds like an old tractor.
Power is well down to what it was.
Could this be the pump timing out?.
The pump was running great in the doner car.
Thank you.
davek
 
Hi
thanks for your reply.
I marked the old pully's and used them on the new pump.
I have vag.com but could not find a how to on pump timing.
I have adjusted the timing via the cam pully but no change.
any advice on this would be very welcome.
So do you think this is my problem.
The car runs ok but for this damn clacking noise.
thank you very much.
davek
 
If you have a 'proper' VCDS, then go to Basic Settings, Block 4 and click the TDi Timing button. With the graph up, choose your engine (bottom on the list for the 2.5TDi) and get it between the lines. The engine will cycle between full advance and ****** every 10 seconds, and the line will only be visible during the ****** cycle.
If you have VCDS Lite, or some 'other' copy:no: then TDi Timing doesn't have the 2.5 engine.
In this case, after starting the car, go to Measuring Blocks, Group 19, and check commencement of injection stored in the memory during start up. It should read between 2.0 ATDC to 4.7 BTDC. Once the engine is running, get it up to a temp of 85C - if you can get it that warm! In Basic setting, go to Group 4 and your timing should read between 0 ATDC and 4 ATDC when the display in zone 2 reads 'retarded', and the injection valve duty cycle should be 100%. When you are in Basic settings Group 4, the engine will cycle between advance and ****** every 10 seconds (it starts to 'hunt')
This method works, but not as accurately as the VCDS method and is complicated :readit:
The Basic settings is important, as in Measured Blocks, the pump ECU will adjust the timing. This means you may have problems with a non-genuine Vag-Com.

As has been mentioned many times before, you cannot time this pump effectively without the dynamic check, although I adjusted my first one by trial and error, gradually retarding it until most of the 'bark' had gone. When my Ross-Tech lead arrived (less than a week delivered!) I wasn't terribly far out.
You really do want a genuine VCDS and lead, plus a copy of the Elsa-Win manual system, or similar if you are working on these cars.:thumbsup:
 
Last edited:
Hi
thank you.
i have a problem.
group 2 and 19 are not available.
What version do i need.and can i adjust the timing with vag.com.
thanks.
dave
 
You really ought to get the latest version, VCDS 10.6 I think, but it's the real lead you need.
NMH sells them on this site, or get one from Ross-Tech direct, as I did. The E-Bay leads only work with limited functionality, if at all.
If you have an E-Bay lead, you can download VCDS Lite from Ross-Tech for free, but you will have to use method 2 to check the timing, which is a bit fiddly.
VCDS (the new name for Vag-Com) will not adjust your timing. You must check it Dynamically as above, adjust the pulley, then check again. Repeat until it is correct.

I have made an edit in my previous post far clarity
 
Hi
I have the real ross tech lead.
not mine its on load could not afford my own.
thanks.dave
 
Hi
thanks for all your help.
Fiddling with the timing,then all of a sudden a bang then loads of knocking.
Noticed the timing belt had jumped 2 inches.
checked belt for missing teeth and for tension but all was perfect.
all i done before thtis is fit a hand pump for priming.
never mind.
thanks.
dave
 

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