right click remote entry

fARQUARE

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finally got round to fitting the right click remote central locking unit. Fitting went quite smoothly, must say a thanks to aragorn who posted the following in an earlier thread:

On the box itself:

Orange and Orange/Black are unconnected
White is the close wire
Yellow, Yellow/Black and Black are all grounded
White/Black is the open wire.

There are two different pin choices depending on the age of the car:

White/Black goes to Grey/White, and White goes to brown/grey.

Grey/white will be either a) Pin3 on 12pin plug or b)pin9 on 16 pin plug
Brown/grey will be either a)Pin4 on 12pin plug or b)pin 10 on 12pin plug

It will be either both on a or both on b, not a combination.


Spliced, soldered and shrink wrapped the open, close and power wires and just grounded through a bolt in the rear cubby for holding the warning triangle. Worked 1st time!

I will try to get the blades cut locally but i might need a bit of advice on what to do with the little rfid chip. I only have 1 key with my vehicle and i dont want to butcher it for its chip and end up having no way to get the car started. i guess my 2 options are:

1) get a new "normal" key cut and matched to the car (who and where would be the cheapest do you think?), then cut the rfid out of that key;

2) order a new rfid chip and stick it in the remote key fob and match it to the car.

What would be the easiest/cheapest given that i dont have vag tacho but i do have a freeware veersion of vagcom and a willingness to give it a go. I remember an old thread where someone gave the type of rfid chip i would need but i cant find it at the moment, will need to do some trawling.

Thanks in advance..
 
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Was this a third party remote locking kit? If so have you got the details of it, im keen to buy one and the above post will be what i need to install..
 
managed to get an rfid chip coded @ timpsons (the shoe repair place) for £15. Unfortunately the key blank slipped while the guy was cutting it so I only have 1 spare now.

I have approached right click to see if i can buy some blanks (or get a few spares) so i have a spare to work with and i'm going to go back on sat and get them cut when he has more time.

The chip is called megamos, although timpsons call it something else and there is a lilttle space in the top half of the key for it to be slotted in.
 
I just cut up my normal car key and swapped the chip over.

Otherwise you need to **** around recoding the immo to recognise the new key.

You can buy the blanks from rclick no problems. I sent my blades to a guy on ebay along with a photo of the original key, and he cut them for me. Timpsons couldnt get their vice to hold the rclick blade properly, as it had a chamfer on the edge the vice clamped onto that the original Audi key didnt have.
 
i only have 1 working key for the vehicle and i'm not chopping it up, getting the transponder coded was the bit i was worried about.

If you can be bothered can you have a dig about to see who you sent the blanks to and how much it cost - think this is maybe the best bet.

Cheers.
 
got some replacement blanks cut and got 2 transponders coded at a local locksmith and the kit has been working fine for about 1 month. R Click support has been very good and i think i'll need to rely on them again....

this morning, while at an audi dealer of all places the c/l decided to stop unlocking from the key, here is the problem:
The lock button on the remote still locks the car but the unlock button (on both remotes) does nothing.

I have re-checked the installation and re soldered and heat shrunk the connections as well as checking the power and earths are all intact. I think this must be a problem with the box its self.
When the unlock button is hit i can hear the relays in the box clicking but the c/l pump does not cycle. Both lock and unlock are still working off the key in the drivers door so I think i can safely rule out the c/l pump on the car.

Only strange thing is the interior light still comes on when the unlock button is pressed.

I did not want to take the control box as there is a tamper proof sticker over 1 of the screws.

Are there any other output tests i can perform to narrow the fault down to the box?
 
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just had a call off the mrs to say the buttons are working again... strange.
 
If the relays are clicking and the pump isnt going it might suggest a problem with the pump, you might have shorted something during installation? maybe give it an R&R?
 
I've found the kit can sometimes get confused, if for instance you lock the car with the key, the box things the cars still unlocked, so pressing unlock on the fob doesnt work.
 
the cl pump is working fine using the key in the lock though. i'll have a look at it tomorow and see whats what, hopefully its sorted it's self out.
had a look for a reset botton on the box but didnt see one.
 
Cool. Last thing you want is your pump dying. Think ill be buying one of these kits this month.
 
seems to be working fine today....
have e-mailed r click for advice, will let you know how it goes. As always thanks for the feedback.
 
As i say, its the rclick box that seems to get confused.

I had it a few times on the old car, and it was always caused by locking/unlocking the car with the key.

If i opened it with the key, the rclick box wouldnt lock the car if i just pressed "lock". I'd have to press unlock first on the remote, then press lock to get it to actually work. Same vice versa.