Monster MotorsportChris Nott
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  1. #1
    pjw
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    clutch adjustment

    Right, ive had a good search on here (annoying you cant search specifically in the b5 forum) and im enquiring about why my clutch has such a high biting point. Its not slipping, but i want to adjust it. Where does the cable go into the gearbox inside the engine bay?

    Every other thread ive found just says "do a search theres loads of threads on it.. " but none of them are linked and ive failed to find them.

    Its a cable clutch on a ADP 1.6 fwd.
    Paul

    Purpur A4 B5 - -50mm - S4 Interior - RS6 Alloys - 3" Stainless Exhaust - K&N Intake - HID

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  3. #2
    Blue_Thunder's Avatar
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    You can search specifically in this forum.

    Just go to the grey 'Search Forum' drop down below the advert banners. Then go to Advanced Search, scroll down and you'll see a 'Search Forum' box. Highlight the B5 forum and Bob's your uncle.
    Mo power, mo problems

  4. #3
    Broken Byzan's Avatar
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    You sure it's cable?

    I thought they were all hydraulic and non adjustable

  5. #4
    phoenixv6quattro's Avatar
    staylowmovefast

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    I thought it was Hydraulic too. Would be nice to adjust it though! Like yours its going strong (after 140k!) but the bite point is near the top!
    !!BINGO BONGO!!

  6. #5
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    If you google for clutch adjustment 1.8t (I think) there is an American site that tells you how to do it.You alter the length of the push rod on the slave cylinder.
    96 A4 Avant 1.8T sport
    Things to do:
    Sell it :-(

  7. #6
    PaulTheo's Avatar
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    Mine was not a cable and they all seem to take up quite high. My clutch was still going strong at 169000 original from new and it was always like that. Hope my B8 does as well!!!

  8. #7
    PaulTheo's Avatar
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    or let some air in LOL

  9. #8
    pjw
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    I found this:

    Look underneath the dash, you should see a threaded rod on the clutch pedal to the self adjusting assembly. Loosen the locking nut with a (10mm) wrench. Turn the treaded rod with a pliers or another wrench as you feel the pedal. If you grind going in reverse, you wnet too far :-) Actually, you will see the pedal move down, so you can tell when enough is enough.

    Ill give it a go tomorrow.
    Paul

    Purpur A4 B5 - -50mm - S4 Interior - RS6 Alloys - 3" Stainless Exhaust - K&N Intake - HID

  10. #9
    phoenixv6quattro's Avatar
    staylowmovefast

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    Interesting! Be keen to try that pending your results mate!
    !!BINGO BONGO!!

  11. #10
    pjw
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    The other option is to remove the rod that comes off the slave cylinder, and as above, lengthen it a little. The only thing im paranoid of (and i probably will do it) is dropping the rod into the bell housing. If that happens then its gearbox off time!

    Cars on the ramps at the moment in order for me to find motivation and sort out a blow on the centre section/backbox join, soon as i slide it off ill give the above a go.
    Paul

    Purpur A4 B5 - -50mm - S4 Interior - RS6 Alloys - 3" Stainless Exhaust - K&N Intake - HID

  12. #11
    phoenixv6quattro's Avatar
    staylowmovefast

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    " If that happens then its gearbox off time! " - SOD THAT!!!
    !!BINGO BONGO!!

  13. #12
    pjw
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    Yeah thats what i thought. I did a suspension arm and the centre section this weekend so didnt get time to have a look. Might have a cheeky try at lunchtime tomorrow at work..
    Paul

    Purpur A4 B5 - -50mm - S4 Interior - RS6 Alloys - 3" Stainless Exhaust - K&N Intake - HID

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pjw View Post
    The other option is to remove the rod that comes off the slave cylinder, and as above, lengthen it a little. The only thing im paranoid of (and i probably will do it) is dropping the rod into the bell housing. If that happens then its gearbox off time!

    Cars on the ramps at the moment in order for me to find motivation and sort out a blow on the centre section/backbox join, soon as i slide it off ill give the above a go.

    Making the slave arm longer is done when the clutch is engaging too close to the floor or not disengaging at all making it hard to get into gear. This forces the fingers down further but if made too long can cause the fingers to bottom out on the disk. Can also cause the clutch to slip if the slave piston is all the way back and the fingers are not allowed to come up all the way. Making the arm shorter will just shorten the travel of the slave cylinder.

    The stock clutch is always going to engage very high on the pedal, this is the design of the piviot point and the low clamping load. Doesn't take much slave movement and PP movement to release the disk.


    As for your post about the nut on the pedal. Sounds like the only thing that is doing is lowering the height of where the pedal sits above the floor and making the pedal travel shorter, not actually chancing the engagement point.
    Last edited by Audi2ptzero; 14th December 2010 at 16:57.

  15. #14
    pjw
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    That is a really good point, which is not something im looking to do.

    Went out to do this tonight in the fading light and found i had to remove the cowling to the clutch. If it works ill take some photos and post a howto.
    Paul

    Purpur A4 B5 - -50mm - S4 Interior - RS6 Alloys - 3" Stainless Exhaust - K&N Intake - HID

 

 

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