TDi ECU chips on ebay..

Looks like the right tools for the job. I took before and after shots of my ecu when I got the re'map done. I'll dig them out and post them up for reference.
One thing which surprised me was that both chips are very small, about the size of a stamp. I'm not sure why but I thought they would be bigger
 
aye they are j-pin plcc devices, common as eproms in the late 80's and early 90's PC motherboards and can be a ****** to remove without splitting the socket corners unless you use the proper "squeeze" removal tool. Which often slips lol. They are likely 256k, 128k or even 64k chips as the ecu doesn't need huge devices like a pc bios does now. It runs native code thats specific and compact plus some room for lookup tables to calculate the map figure etc. hence the small size.

£70? Not bad sounding to me if its a proper (if generic) map, as mine is stock anyway. Plus you can swap them back when selling etc.
 
If you have a hot air soldering station and a steady hand i would say go for it. The 1.9 tdi lump has been done to death across europe and even generic maps are really good and give impressive gains. Worry about clutch/drivetrain as soon as you install these as you will need better brakes and a better turbo/nozzles and injector pump. I would say swap the injectors you have in there now with a set of T4 2.5 tdi injectors- good 20Bhp upgrade with better fuel consumption then ask for a remap/chip job...
 
they are push fit mate, no soldering needed. I am an electronics engineer to trade so I could fit a qfp device but these are plcc's and they just press in. A tool is needed to pull the old ones tho as the sockets tend to snap at the corners if you dig them out with a pointed object (can be done but tricky) - fitting the new ones is a snap tho. (need to use an esd strap before touching chips or ecu board, to anyone else contemplating this but its easy, maplin sell esd straps cheap as chips)

Sounds like a plan, same price as a tuning box but a proper map, w00t!
 
The thing is your ECU hasnt got the sockets in place, you need to solder them first or, if you brave solder the new chip in. A tuning box (either digital or analog) will give good results as well but you can sell it on and get a few quid back ! As i said, i would fit a tuning box first but it wont keep you happy for long as the power is addictive. The best thing to do first- if you're thinking to eek more power from the lump at a later date- is to fit 0.216 mm injectors and adjust the pump so it does not smoke at WOT. Same power as a tuning box/chip but with better tuning potential later on... Your early tdi has the stronger heads (8mm valve stem, twin valve spring set-up) and will support power increases better than the new engines just add a 11mm injector pump, a better turbocharger and a good tune and you'll see 200 Bhp quite easily while still getting 50-60Mpg.
 
I had mine chipped, same sort of thing as these chips, had a remap company do it for me, took the old ones out, flashed the new chips and put them in, pretty sure they had to be soldered in, pretty decent gains after aswell, meant to be around 140bhp now from 110bhp.
 
I am building a 1.9 Tdi this winter so i would let you know for real how much power the heads can flow. 2.0 bored block with BEW Nural pistons, Rosten rods, a brand new Mahle cylinder head wich i've ported slightly, stock 8mm Icconel valves, twin valve spring set-up, titanium retainers, 11mm pump, bosio nozzles, KKK bv 50 turbocharger (or VNT 20 if the engine cannot tak-it) and a few more bits and bobs. Hoping to break 220Bhp at the wheels. I will also fit a bigger clutch (from audi s2) with a SMF from early 1Z engine. Need to find a good 1.9 tdi quattro to put it in as FWD is hopeless with that much torque and Bhp...
 
any more details on making the S2 clutch fit the 1Z flywheel?

The stock 228mm cover plate sits very close to the edge of the flywheel?
 
Ye thats why i was asking. I put a 1Z flywheel on the old 1.8T, and used a standard early A4 TDi clutch, but its only rated for a 90hp engine, and probably wont last all that long behind a chipped 1.8T, or a tuned TDi for that matter.

You list a pile of part numbers, but they're all mixed up between Audi and aftermarkets. Do you have the Audi numbers for everything?

I think these numbers are right:

034141032M for the friction disk
035141118X for the Pressure Plate.

Both from a 3B engined car.

Suggests to me we can just buy a complete clutch kit for a 3B engine?

I presume the later ABY and AAN engines have dual mass units?
 
lol I cant pull away on a damp road as it is now, it spins the tyres at 16 to 1800 rpm onward with moderate throttle and even spins again in 2nd when I shift....no tc and the torque at low revs is brutal. I can upshift at 2200 in every gear and hit 60 in not too many seconds so god knows what it would be like chipped or boxed. (before the boost leak that was)

I will have to open the ecu again, im going to replace the internal map pipe anyway and flush the sensor out but im sure my ecu has 2 plcc sockets already. im in the electronics game so I know what im looking for, but didnt take too much notice when I had it open cleaning the map tube....hmmmm

So currently it seems to have a boost leak somewhere, so gonna fix that first then see what its like, as it hisses like a bitch when on boost and only makes 7psi, no smoke tho and still pulls strongly but not like it did when I first got the boost working. The clutch is brand new (less than 6 months and no miles) as it was fitted with the replacement engine, but the fitter chafed a wire and it had no n75 / boost etc from then till I bought it off him, and fixed the wiring (2 weeks ago) - it also leaks fuel from the IP or one of the nozzle pipes at the pump end, so fuel pressure must be down to at least one cylinder.

To begin with, once the boost was back, I filled it up, put redex in and gave it beans everywhere when warmed up to blow the soot out, it was grin-inducingly fast but then went a bit limp and started hissing afterwards. Here's ma youtube vid to see if you guys can hear the leak too :ermm:

 
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Ok some points, if your spinning the wheels up in a standard TDi you need better tyres. Also, if your trying to drive quickly, dont change at 2200rpm, peak power doesnt occur until 4k+ and even though the torque is dropping off, the car WILL accellerate quicker revving it up to 4k than it will shifting at 2.2.

It does sound like a boost leak, but its hard to tell on a video like that, as cameras always pick up noises oddly. I'd pressure test the inlet, quickest way to find it rather than fumbling around for hours looking for what could easily be an invisible split that only opens up under boost.

Also dont keep ragging it about like that with the leak, or you WILL break the turbo.

PS: Methinks you really need a faster car if you think a 110hp TDi is fast :p
 
aye, the tyres are no name crappers lol.

The hiss is very noticable, when your driving but as I hadnt had a vnt before, thought it may just be me hearing it boosting after having it a while, and going from the petrol to a diesel. It is quick tho mind, and light years faster than the pug 110 i had for a runabout earlier this year.

I have a fast car already lol, a twin turbo subaru legacy gt running 300 brake in standard trim with just a decat and H&S exhaust.....the tdi is the work bus cos the scoob does 22mpg at best :eeeek: but for a diesel, its fast and the low down torque is addictive.

Thing is, the ecu in the tdi might be chipped already now I see they dont usually have sockets, may be wrong but I think the eproms are already socketed so will get a look today hopefully.

Will build a leak tester on fri when the beer tokens go into the bank....plus I get the legacy back with gas-tight up pipes and a new engine cradle :drool: now that's booooooooost lol
 
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