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  1. #1
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    Any help on buying an A4 TDi?

    Hi everyone.

    I've been lurking on here for a while now, but the time has come to make my first post!
    Seeing as this seems to be the foremost Audi resource I can find on the net, I thought you guys will probably be able to help me out.

    I'm currently in the process of selling my car (E36 318iS) and looking at getting an Audi A4 (B5) 1.9TDi.
    Preferably I'm looking at the 110 or 115 models as I plan on remapping the car and these give a nice rounded figure at just under 150bhp once done. It seems the 90bhp models dont give that much more once remapped, and I dont think I could live with going from a smaller car with 140bhp down to a larger with 90bhp...

    Also hoping to get hold of a late 1999/2000 model as I gather these are the facelift models (centre-console looks much nicer imo). Im not really fussed about leather, I'll be happy with a cloth interior, but the dash has to be black and not grey.

    My budget is around 3k, and I want a car with as close to 100K on the mileage as possible.
    I've found one with the perfect spec, completely standard and very tidy for 2.5K, but the mileage is around 120K.

    My main question is....

    Am I expecting too much for too little money?
    Is an A4 1.9TDi 110/115 good for remapping?
    Is 120k+ mileage ok on these cars? Should I be looking at less?
    Any signs to look out for when viewing?
    Are the service fees high? And if so how often do you service them?



    Any help is warmly appreciated!
    Ant.


    PS.
    Sorry for looking stupid.
    This is the first Diesel and Audi i'll be getting so I'm not sure what to look at when viewing the car.
    Really love the shape of them though. With a little drop, they look fantastic!

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  3. #2
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    Nobody got an A4 1.9 TDi?

    Sorry to be a pain, I just dont want to get a dud!

  4. #3
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    i have just sold my 2002 130 se tdi 1.9 for 2200k because the front arch was bubbling ;(.

    & if you remap them, you may get some judder ( too much boost ) & the clutch will have a shorter life too.

    so if you can get a ECO remap what offers some power gain but it is saftey as it gives you more fuel.

    i am going to get one for my below SIG soon, just finding out with my insurance first...... .

    the 1.9's fwd are great cars nice on fuel all ready & good on parts & service prices.

    brakes can be weak if you are heavy footed but drive it nice with some boost now & then & it will last you a long time.

    double check the wheel archs & brakes too & see if you can get any knocked off if it needs a mini service ( every 7k for me ) or cam belt ( i do mine every 60k ).

    hpi it & it should drive smooth with a great gear change.

    hope this helps a bit, as i am a driver not a mech sorry.
    2004 AUDI A4 2496 cc 2.5 TDI 180 Quattro Sport
    Metallic Silver, RNS-E Audi dvd Sat Nav ( 2010 dvd disk ) + muti CD Player, Parrot ls3200 Bluetooth Phone kit, 6 Speed, 4 Electric Windows, Electric Mirrors ( not elec folding ), Cruise Control, Nice Alloy Wheels, Colour DIS, Colour Keyed Body, Full audi Service History, Maintained Regardless Of Cost, Tinted Windows, Aero Wipers, inside red light kit ( audi ) + Puddle lights & Footwell light too, HID's.

  5. #4
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    I'm not particularly sure on the value of TDi's, and i know they hold their value a little better but it seems like a lot of money to me.

    For 2.5-3 grand i'd be wanting a quattro model, preferably with the 2.5V6 TDi which has 150hp to start with. They (both the 1.9 and the v6) remap quite well, but for properly big power you need to do more than just reprogram the ECU, for example you might need to fit a larger turbo, larger intercooler and change the injectors.

    Big torque and FWD doesnt really make for a pleasant driving experience imo, so quattro would be a must for me. Quattro models also drive much nicer in general, probably down to the independent rear suspension over the beam axle on the FWD's

    For the mileage, its something i pay less attention to than the overall condition. I'd rather have a car on 140k with a excellent service history, regular oil changes and a recent timing belt, than one on 90k with barebones service history, bare minimum oil changes and just about due a timing belt...


    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2000-Audi-A4-2...item43a07961ce

    Theres an example of what i'd be looking for.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  6. #5
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    1.9 VE its a great engine and it will outlast any modern engine, i would stay clear of the 115PD tdi as they are weak in comparison with the 1.9 Tdi non pd. As aragorn sugested, the best combo is a v6 tdi quattro, wich has a top speed of 140Mph and a 40+ Mpg. They have strong clutches, strong boxes and strong engines as well. They are only 150Bhp as standard but they chip well to 180Bhp and it will out-accelerate pretty much anything (bar supercars) on a motorway run ! There is nearly 400Nm of torque on tap from as low as 1500 rpms wich means they pull the same in any gear. Trust me, once you drive a big diesel you'll ask why drive petrol ! Also, the v6 will go as much as 250-300Bhp with just a bigger turbo (GTB 2260 from the audi a5 3.0Tdi quattro is a favourite) and a decent remap/nozzles while still being bulletproof and returning 30+MPG . The weak spot is the computer on top of the injector pump wich fails at 150K and means a 600 quid rebuild. Also the cambelt is quite involved job on them and it costs 500+ quid. I will be selling mine soon if you interested, its the full monty: Bose, leather, 180Bhp engine, chipped, rs4 shocks on eibach springs all round, new s4 Genuine susp. arms, rear rs4 diff + subframe, s4 front and rear bumpers, rear spoiler, xenons, cruise,etc. Spent over 3k on it since i bought-it and i've done all the job on it myself, no cut corners ! I am still in 2 minds if to sell as i got it to the point where it goes and looks great but fancy a change (i've split with me missus a few months ago and chicks dont really digg 10 years old moddified b5 avants so need to get something newer and less reliable for a few months then i'll get back to the b5 and maybe buy a rs4 !
    FOR SALE:
    -Golf mk 5/audi a3 1.6 FSI fuel pump, brand new genuine part boxed + seals
    -audi a3 (1998 to 2003) genuine clutch slave cylinder to fit 1.6 engines BRAND NEW
    -Rear bush press tool to fit new rear axle bushes on Golf Mk3/4, Audi a3/S3, Seat Leon/Toledo, Skoda Octavia mk 1/2 used once

  7. #6
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    Here's my 2 cents.

    I've just bought a '96 110 bhp afn avant.
    172k on the clock, new turbo 2 years ago, FSH, timing belt done 2 months ago, all new suspension and tyres,new exhaust, 12 months ticket and 6 months tax for 1k.

    Although it looks a bit ratty (both front arches have gone) im reasonably pleased with it and once it's cleaned up it'l be soaking up the 120 miles per day commute on bio diesel @ 90p p/l.

    One thing i'd say is scan the car for fault codes, mine was/is showing 00575 which i believe i have narrowed down to the n75 after ruling out the maf and the vacumm lines. Common wear items are N75 and N18 valves, vacumm lines, maf sensors, vane actuators on the turbo and IF YOU GET A HIGH MILE TDI GET THE INLET MANIFOLD OFF AND CLEAN ALL THE GUNK OUT, ITS DISGUSTING!!!

    I always reckon on 80k mile intervals on a car, all the ancilleries tent to need replaced around this point so i'd rather have a 100k miler than an 80k car...

    Power and torque is easy to come by (once you have your car running as well as it will as standard) and even throwing a fault code mine is still returning 50+ mpg. As mentioned there are options on re-mapping for power or economy, i would suggest getting a vagcom lead if you dont have one so you can see whats going on with all the systems.

    I think its a bit of a step back from my current car (b5 1.8t sport avant which is for sale) cause it has the base spec interior and no dis ect, but i think it is the right tool for the job.

  8. #7
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Thats the other advantage of buying a TDi Quattro, you'll get the decent seats, steering wheel, dis and sport suspension, rather than the soggyspec stuff.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  9. #8
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    I have had 2 A4 Tdi's, AFN 110bhp and now have a 2000yr PD 115 and would say the PD is a much better engine, boosts up quicker and runs much quieter and smoother, I am not sure where the comment about PD engines being weak has come from as it is the most common VAG engine and is still used today in the 115bhp guise in VAG models. Every time a new VAG diesel engine comes out "Its not as good as the last one" and have read many reviews that the 2.0TDi engine is not as good as the PD. As long as it is serviced properly as with any engine you will be fine.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by martinA4passat View Post
    I have had 2 A4 Tdi's, AFN 110bhp and now have a 2000yr PD 115 and would say the PD is a much better engine, boosts up quicker and runs much quieter and smoother, I am not sure where the comment about PD engines being weak has come from as it is the most common VAG engine and is still used today in the 115bhp guise in VAG models. Every time a new VAG diesel engine comes out "Its not as good as the last one" and have read many reviews that the 2.0TDi engine is not as good as the PD. As long as it is serviced properly as with any engine you will be fine.
    Martin, i am not trying to teach you to suck eggs but i work on vag engines on a daily basis and the early AJM engine/115Bhp as fitted to the passat and b5 audi a4 is a weak engine wich will blow the headgasket (or have porous heads) sooner or later. A much stronger engine is the 130PD wich has every mechanical bit uprated bar the engine block. Even they eat clutches/dmf on a regular basis (clutch is supposed to last a lifetime isn-it ?) and are very particular on the oil. Also the pd 150(ARL) is very tough on oil and the turbo and camshaft lobes on cyl 1 will wear on EVERY one of them. Also the 2.0 PD Tdi is a very un-reliable engine with many early ones chewing the oil chain off the oil pump (google balance shaft failure) also blow headgaskets and eating injectors on a regular basis. If you compare the AFN VE rotary engine, thats really bulletproof ! Cars after 2000/2003 are less reliable and even a full service history doesnt guarantee a reliable car as nobody sells a good car only when things go south they wanna get rid ! Yes, the PD is smoother but the AFN is much better engineered lump but old technology.
    FOR SALE:
    -Golf mk 5/audi a3 1.6 FSI fuel pump, brand new genuine part boxed + seals
    -audi a3 (1998 to 2003) genuine clutch slave cylinder to fit 1.6 engines BRAND NEW
    -Rear bush press tool to fit new rear axle bushes on Golf Mk3/4, Audi a3/S3, Seat Leon/Toledo, Skoda Octavia mk 1/2 used once

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by adamss24 View Post
    Martin, i am not trying to teach you to suck eggs but i work on vag engines on a daily basis and the early AJM engine/115Bhp as fitted to the passat and b5 audi a4 is a weak engine wich will blow the headgasket (or have porous heads) sooner or later. A much stronger engine is the 130PD wich has every mechanical bit uprated bar the engine block. Even they eat clutches/dmf on a regular basis (clutch is supposed to last a lifetime isn-it ?) and are very particular on the oil. Also the pd 150(ARL) is very tough on oil and the turbo and camshaft lobes on cyl 1 will wear on EVERY one of them. Also the 2.0 PD Tdi is a very un-reliable engine with many early ones chewing the oil chain off the oil pump (google balance shaft failure) also blow headgaskets and eating injectors on a regular basis. If you compare the AFN VE rotary engine, thats really bulletproof ! Cars after 2000/2003 are less reliable and even a full service history doesnt guarantee a reliable car as nobody sells a good car only when things go south they wanna get rid ! Yes, the PD is smoother but the AFN is much better engineered lump but old technology.
    I have a little experience with engines myself but I am only talking about my experiences I have had in my own cars. I have a few passats with both engines and never had any failures, two of my passats done in excess of 220,000 miles when I sold them and were still going strong, as was the AFN audi, all were bought with a few miles on the clock from original owners. I know all about DMF failure and have suffered when given mondeo TDi's as company cars they suffered terribly. I would be looking at the suspension on any A4 before parting with my cash. There are pro's and con's with all cars but the cons are far less when buying an A4.

 

 

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