Bose Sat Nav System - Rear Speakers not Working

[cobraBLACK]

I've just noticed none of my rear speakers are working (2004 S4 Avant).

When I messed about with the fader/balance and turned off the fronts, all I could hear was the dash-top speaker (sounded very quiet and tinny - is that normal?) and the sub.

I'd rather not pull all the trim out from the head unit to the boot looking for the problem so which connections do I need to check?

Thanks.

 

[PetrolDave]

all I could hear was the dash-top speaker (sounded very quiet and tinny - is that normal?) and the sub.

Sounds like the Bose amp (behind the RHS trim in the boot) isn't getting power or has failed - have you checked all the fuses?

 

[cobraBLACK]

I have not. Do you know where they are?

 

[AndyMac]

It can't be a fuse if the fronts are working as they run off the same amp. You'd need to check the rear speaker impedance and ensure they haven't blown. They should read roughly 2 ohms. You can do this at the amp with the HU turned off, rather than tearing the doors apart.

 

[cobraBLACK]

Lovely. I'll have a look later on.

Thanks.

 

[cobraBLACK]

I finally got around to testing the amp connector but it's different to the pin diagram you posted. Do you have any more?

 

[davidkoulakis]

has the unit been retro fitted or is it factory fit?

have they ever worked to your knowledge?

It would be the wiring harness is incorrectly set up, I know there is a certain wire for BOSE on the harness that need to be in the correct place.

On my old S4, I had non BOSE, but when I had Sat Nav retro fitted, the fitter put a BOSE wiring harness on and I had the EXACT same problem as you. He eventually changed the BOSE wire on the harness and it worked.

 

[pjmspeedy]

has the unit been retro fitted or is it factory fit?

have they ever worked to your knowledge?

It would be the wiring harness is incorrectly set up, I know there is a certain wire for BOSE on the harness that need to be in the correct place.

On my old S4, I had non BOSE, but when I had Sat Nav retro fitted, the fitter put a BOSE wiring harness on and I had the EXACT same problem as you. He eventually changed the BOSE wire on the harness and it worked.

Time to change your sig David... I see from your posts on RS246 you now have a lovely RS4 B7. Lucky git

 

[markyzs180]

first thing i would be doing is cleaning up that nice green corrosion on the connector block and, no doubt, the pins on the amp......

 

[AndyMac]

That looks the same as the A3 8P Bose connector. I have some of the pinouts:

Yours looks totally fcuked, should be super clean. Looks like there has been some water damage at some point, could have shorted the output stage.
I'd check the impedance of the rear speakers and if they are good (showing 1-2ohms) then would think you need a new amp, plenty on ebay.
The sub works off one of the rear channels and one of the front channels. So when you fade to rear and still get sub, if you balance left & right the sub should stop when full left. this proves the rear signal is getting to the amp, so the problem has to be the amp. Doubt both speakers would blow at the same time.

 

[AndyMac]

Why the hell does that not work?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/dizzythedog/Audi8PBoseconnectorpinouts.jpg

 

[cobraBLACK]

I'll try the fade/balance test. Thanks.

Is it worth cleaning the corrosion then? If so, what would be safe to use?

 

[markyzs180]

electrical contact cleaner....

 

[no_idea]

That is the plug for the later style (silver coloured casting with fins on) amp with audio pilot. The plug schematic posted earlier by AndyMac is the black amp without Audio pilot. If you are having problems it just so happens I have got a brand new complete sub enclosure with amp and speaker.(the same as yours) PM if you need any more info.

 

[JohnboyC]

I finally got around to testing the amp connector but it's different to the pin diagram you posted. Do you have any more?

Hi...all my speakers started crackling and making a ****** awful noise with the ignition off and key removed....root cause was water coming from the flexible rear washer pipe having split between the tailgate of my avant and the car the tailgate hinge. Water had dripped over the amp every time i tried to use the rear washer......

Cleaned up all the conacts in my Bose Amp connector (which were looking the same as your connector)...worked perfectly after that (thank goodness)
Looks like water damage has occurred....you may have to get an auto electrician to check out the amp outputs to tye rear speakers ...or you buy a spare amp one off e-bay.

You must find out how water is dripping onto your bose amp connector.....check the washer pipe from tailgate near the the tailgate hinge...

(My washer pipe has been fixed now)...

 

[JohnboyC]

I finally got around to testing the amp connector but it's different to the pin diagram you posted. Do you have any more?

Hi...all my speakers started crackling and making a ****** awful noise with the ignition off and key removed....root cause was water coming from the flexible rear washer pipe having split between the tailgate of my avant and the car the tailgate hinge. Water had dripped over the amp every time i tried to use the rear washer......

Cleaned up all the conacts in my Bose Amp connector (which were looking the same as your connector)...worked perfectly after that (thank goodness)
Looks like water damage has occurred....you may have to get an auto electrician to check out the amp outputs to tye rear speakers ...or you buy a spare amp one off e-bay.

You must find out how water is dripping onto your bose amp connector.....check the washer pipe from tailgate near the the tailgate hinge...

(My washer pipe has been fixed now)...

 

[cobraBLACK]

UPDATE:

I cleaned the pins up (easily done on the amp as they were the exposed male type, not sure about the connector end) but it made no difference.

I'd given up and was gonna open the door panels and test the speakers directly this week but I've just found a couple of pin diagrams for my style amp (32-pin Bose). They're both basically the same apart from a couple of transposed pins (I don't if there's two versions or one's wrong).

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[cobraBLACK]

I tested the pins and got a good reading so it looks like the amp.

I'd rather not pay around £100 for a replacement if a component or two can be replaced.

Does anyone have experience of doing this?

 

[cobraBLACK]

UPDATE:

I opened up the amp and there was corrosion and damaged pins on some components. Looks like I need a new amp.

I've had a look on eBay and the model number doesn't match any other's as they have longer codes and start with 8E, 8H or 8P.

Any ideas?

 

[AndyMac]

Think you need 8E, just phone up local dealer and ask what the Audi part number should be for your car.

 

[cobraBLACK]

Oh, right. Thanks.

 

[no_idea]

If you want I can check the new one I have. It is definitely for a B6 Avant

 

[no_idea]

There should be a part number on the sub enclosure something like: 8E9 035 382 B or C

 

[cobraBLACK]

If you want I can check the new one I have. It is definitely for a B6 Avant

You have a PM.