HELP! - 2004 Audi A4 1.8t Quattro (B6) wont start!!!

skyline-sl

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This just happened!!!

Hi guys, I have had my A4 for around 2 months. It has a FASH, 72k Miles. Not had belts replaced... Yet... was on my to-do-list in the next couple of months.

Within the 1st week I had 2 coil pack failures!
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Since then the car has been OK, other then wheel alignment problem (easily solved). And an ongoing issue with rattling brakes.

Anyway I use my car daily and have no issues until now...

I get in my car, start-up as normal. It turns over fine and starts-up. Literally a couple of seconds later. The engine turns off!
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I take the key out of the ignition wait for around 1 min and try to start up again. The engine turns over but wont start!

Can anyone help? I am a complete amateur when it comes to cars, I am really panicking here!


*EDIT - Also my wipers were running slow, then stopped then other day, not sure if that makes a difference
 
Not a joke but a serious question I think. So if it's turning over ok then it can't be the battery - so the slow wipers would appear to be unrelated. Has the car been sat in full sun today? Can you smell petrol when you wind it over?
 
No no smell.

I put key in ignition, turn... get the usual message saying everything is ok...

I turn the key, the engine is turning over but wont start...

I took a quick pic of what is on the dash, apologies for the quality

2wohiqp.jpg
 
try the immobiliser, the key may be low in battery power. Some will say that doesnt matter but it happened all the time to me until I put a new battery in the fob, but your dash doesnt show the car symbol with the key inside, so maybe not. You need it scanned for codes.

Does it crank over on the key like normal or is it sluggish? Crawling wipers indicates a dead battery or other electrical fault but its impossible to diagnose without vag com or similar.

If it beeps when it wont start, press the CHECK button and it will display a message saying what the problem is....

hope it helps. Try a jump start from another car, if that doesnt work then its not the battery but could be ignition module, fuel pressure, immobiliser, ECU, etc etc
 
Check to see if camb belt is still on.
See if you can here the fuel pump prime it's self, if not it could be the pump relay or fuse.

Other options could be Coolent sensor or camb sensor.

These are the most common issues.
 
oops forgot about the cam sensor and fuel pump relay doc, good points.

The relay is behind the rhs dash panel on the end facing the door mate.
 
Hi guys thanks for the replies!:applaus:

I have been googling everthing and the fuel pump relay seems the likely cause to this.

Are there any sign that would give this away?

I have managed to locate the relay... It has a number 167 on it... Am I right?

I have been quoted by Audi £24 ish and independent £10 ish.

I realy hope this works, if not im really in the sh.....
 
I have the fuel pump relay (well, it's on the way), located where the old is but....


How do you take it out, it really tight! Any tips? Is there a technique?

I'm sure its the one that says '167' on it.

Also on a side point I tried to get the part number from Audi but they would give it to me! The salesman even told me they sell at higher prices!

Tut tut...
 
****** 'Stealers' really **** me off.

Not sure about the relay mate but Im sure someone will be along to assist shortly.Lets hope you sort it!!!
 
You really need to get the car scanned, it could be so many things.
If you start changing bits willy nilly you'll waste a lot of money.
Cheapest option is to download VAG-COM free from the Ross Tech site and either borrow a cable from somebody if you can or buy a cheap copy from e bay, they're about £15.
That's what I've got, I've had the car 6 months and so far it's saved me thousands but that's probably because the car I bought was a Friday night impulse buy on e bay and has been nothing but trouble.
Good luck.
 
First thing i would do is check all the fuses costs nothing, also when the coils go they sometimes blow the engine management fuse, worth a look mate.
 
yeah vagcom is worth its weight in gold. The relay will just be tight mate, but could be a sign its burned out since its stuck in there, that heating sometimes melts the socket a bit and then sets on the pins when it cools, try brute force, you can only break the existing relay. If the cover comes off exposing the guts o the relay, disco the battery before pulling it out wi pliers. My B5 burned out the 12v feed from the ECU to the fuel pump relay, and yeah its 167, I had to run an ignition 12v feed to the relay to fix it and cut out the burned wiring from the harness for safety.

When you turn on the ignition, you should hear a fairly strong humming noise for about 3 seconds, thats the pump priming the injector rail, then a click as it stops. If theres no hum or click, then suspect the relay, and check the fuse that protects it too.

Otherwise, vag com to see whats really wrong.
 
yeah vagcom is worth its weight in gold. The relay will just be tight mate, but could be a sign its burned out since its stuck in there, that heating sometimes melts the socket a bit and then sets on the pins when it cools, try brute force, you can only break the existing relay. If the cover comes off exposing the guts o the relay, disco the battery before pulling it out wi pliers. My B5 burned out the 12v feed from the ECU to the fuel pump relay, and yeah its 167, I had to run an ignition 12v feed to the relay to fix it and cut out the burned wiring from the harness for safety.

When you turn on the ignition, you should hear a fairly strong humming noise for about 3 seconds, thats the pump priming the injector rail, then a click as it stops. If theres no hum or click, then suspect the relay, and check the fuse that protects it too.

Otherwise, vag com to see whats really wrong.


Well that's interesting, when I turn the ignition... I do hear a humming noise, perhaps not a strong one buts its definitely there... And I do hear a click.

Given this, whats my best course of action VAGCOM will take ages to come. I really cannot wait that long.

I have RAC coverage but only basic. I'm sure they wont come to my home unless I pay extra!

Thanks for all the help so far:anbet: Some more advice would be greatly appriciated!
 
skyline,
where you at ?
plenty of members have vagcom, someone must be local to you, im sure someone wouldnt mind helping out for a beer.
 
I'm in Birmingham, B9

I would happily reimburse fuel costs.

Where is the best (and fastest) place to get VAGCOM.

And which to I need to get? eBay has SO many, and most of the people have negative feedback!

*EDIT

I don't drink, and try not to encourage others to do so, especially when they have to drive home! Red-Bull???
 
youve answered your own question mate, best and far as i know the cheapest way of getting a full genuine one is off a guy on here called " NHN " top genuine helpfull guy.
well worth getting your own mate.
put a post up mate asking for someone in the brum area to give you a scan, obviously you need it doing sooner rather than later.
im about 40 ish miles from you, if all fails then i could help but i cant say when due to my job.
ill keep an eye out on here to see what response you get mate.
 
youve answered your own question mate, best and far as i know the cheapest way of getting a full genuine one is off a guy on here called " NHN " top genuine helpfull guy.
well worth getting your own mate.
put a post up mate asking for someone in the brum area to give you a scan, obviously you need it doing sooner rather than later.
im about 40 ish miles from you, if all fails then i could help but i cant say when due to my job.
ill keep an eye out on here to see what response you get mate.
I cannot afford to part with £200... not right now anyway...

Also thats a great gesture to be willing to come! Thanks for that, hopefully I wont need your help!
 
you do have a laptop eh? None of us thought to ask, since you need one to use VC.

That one is fine that you ordered tho.

Remember, it could be the signal from the key fob to the immobiliser, mine did the exact same thing when I first got it and it needed a £1 battery in the keyfob, or the fob could be faulty. Mine would open the doors but sometimes got ignored, then started giving me grief trying to start at petrol station etc......I used the spare key, then it started doin it as well, changed the fob battery (CR2032) and away it went, never to happen again.
 
skyline
That's exactly what I bought, it was even off that seller plus I live in north east Scotland and it arrived in 2 days. You even get a c.d. with the software so you don't need to download it.
Just make sure it's compatible with your car according to the Ross Tech site it should be but please check for yourself, works a treat on mine and I have the same model only it's a 2001.
 
i assume you have a standard audi stereo in the car as its been known to blow the lead with aftermarket stereos as it put to high a voltage down the k-line.
 
mate, I wish you were nearby and I would help you get it runnin in a minute. See if you can get a scan with your new cable, and post the error codes (DTC's) and we will be able to nail it down between us all.

One thing you can try, is to disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, you wouldn't believe how many stupid things that can fix. If its still the same, then you have a physical fault and not some ECU nonsense. (Just think, if microsoft made ECU's, the car would crash every day for no reason, need constant updates, get hacked by little scrotes still wearing pimples, and cost the same inflated price each year no matter how crap the previous ones were)
 
Unfortunately I'm not at home to disconnect the battery. I will try that tomorrow!

Again can say thanks for the support! :respekt:

I hope I can get the car started by the weekend, if not I will have to get a recovery truck to drive it to an Audi specialist.

I can't really test the immobiliser issue as the spare key battery is dead. I brought it like that. Although for some reason the spare key looks brand new and the key I use looks used... Not sure if that means anything.

Lets hope my cable works and its only a minor issue. Fingers crossed I'll be back on the roads with my baby soon... :racer:
 
yeah hope so mate. It might be a key issue, you never know. I got 2 remotes, one doesnt work and the other needed a battery....
 
Well no harm in tying that, will any CR2032 battery do the job?

How much will Audi charge as there is a dealer not too far from where I work
 
yeah they are only a quid or something, dunno about audi dealer tho hehe.

Its the same big button cell thats used in computers to store the date and time etc, you can get them loads o places.

You pry the fob in 2 halfs wi a flat blade screwdriver and they slide apart, open the battery / remove / insert new one then put the key in the ignition, turn the ignition on for about 5 secs, but dont start it, switch off and remove the key then immediately press the OPEN button on the fob, the car should respond by clicking the indicators twice (the doors already unlocked anyway) then try locking - if that works you are good to go, open the car, and see if it starts.
 
Good news! Well sort of....

My VAGCOM cable has come... Lets hope it works!!!

Just have to wait for my mate to bring his laptop over I'm expecting him to be here around half ten.

Hopefully I will get an update shortly after that!

Would VAGCOM show if the key is the problem? I'm assuming it is. Hopefully it's something I can sort out on my drive!

It feels like I haven't been driving for ages!
 
Still waiting for the laptop.....

I'm considering taking my whole PC out to the car!!!
 
*Update

Well I feel like a idiot!

We had no idea that to use VAG-COM you need Windows XP :keule:

The laptop we have runs Vista!

I cant even take my desktop out side, that's running Vista Ultimate 64-bit!

I have just upgraded my RAC cover to home start £67 quid! :sob:

The bad news is that will only start in 24 hours!:sign_unfair:

:sos:Can I ask does VAG-COM Release 704.1 work with Vista 64-bit, as I think I can get access to it.
 
Thanks mate, I have tried all thoses options.

RAC seems the only way for me now. I will call them tomorrow night or Sunday morning.