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  1. #1
    dodo0903's Avatar
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    Exclamation Central locking nightmare!!!



    Do you boyz know where is the central locking control unit??
    Acording to Haynes the unit it self is under passanger seat under the carpet and to get to it you need to get the seat out
    Is it right or is it just one of many missprints in haynes manuals???
    and by the way my front pass. door can not be opened! Yes the door it self has been locked by the remote control same as all the other doors but the central locking cant open them anymore I dont really understand why and how can such a thing happend. If anybody know something more about central locking PLEASE share any info as it may help! Thanks in advance JOE

    p.s. I forgot the vag com cant comunicate with the pass. side doors control unit and even the window does not work

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  3. #2
    Woorlord's Avatar
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    Convenience Module is under the passenger seat towards the front left of the seat.
    Yes - you do have to take the passenger seat out, along with the plastic trim on the door sill, then peel back the carpet - you will then see a plastic "water-tight" box which you need to flip over and release the securing tags & open the lid to reveal the convenience module inside. Peeling the carpet back was probably the most annoying aspect - I wedged it back with a piece of wood in the end to give me space to work on the conv. module.

    Can you communicate with the convenience module OK??
    If yes then it is probably the door control unit which is at fault as you say VAG-COM can't communicate with this module. The front passenger door is probably dead-locked - i.e. safe mode. All door functions are communicated from the convenience module - windows / mirrors / lights / locks to the respective door controller.

    Silly question, have you tried the key in the drivers door to try and release the locks. I had a problem with my convenience module where all that would open under the remote was the petrol flap - but using the key in the drivers door opened all doors. Also had intermittent problems with Elec. windows. My problem was a faulty Convenience Module - "NO Communication", this was replaced coded and solved the fault.

    You also say that no n/s doors can be communicated with - this would suggest the convenience module - wierd if both n/s door controllers died at the same time?

    Your first task is to unlock & open the passenger door.
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  4. #3
    dodo0903's Avatar
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    Thanks mate!!! Yeah it looks like the door control unit is broken.There is no comunication with the n/s door.everithing else is working normaly so the main unit could be ok.
    and yes mate I did the key bit straight away but still the same.

    But now HOW I supose to open the f* door???
    Last edited by dodo0903; 16th September 2008 at 10:42.

  5. #4
    evilscotsman's Avatar
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    try pulling the lever twice from the inside on the faulty door, thats supposed to release the deadlocks in an accident even with dead electrics.
    B4 TDI - old skool project / daily driver...if it ain't broke, it's probably an Audi...


  6. #5
    dodo0903's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by evilscotsman View Post
    try pulling the lever twice from the inside on the faulty door, thats supposed to release the deadlocks in an accident even with dead electrics.
    No mate it does not work.

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    bugger, sorry mate. Hmmmm - is it possible to get the door trim off with the door shut? Probly not but thats the only way to get in there to release it if the C/L won't unlock it. They are supposed to unlock with 2 pulls for safety reasons so you can't deadbolt passengers into the car.

    The door module could be faulty but that lever inside is operated mechanically and acts directly on the locking mechanism, its independent of the electronics, there always has to be a tried-and-tested mechanical means of releasing the door in an emergency.

    Get on the phone to an Audi dealership, ask for the Service Dept, and then quiz the guy you get on the phone about how you could get it open - its worked for me in the past, I ask for the workshop foreman like its normal then you usually get the most knowledgeable guy.
    Last edited by evilscotsman; 17th September 2008 at 10:30.
    B4 TDI - old skool project / daily driver...if it ain't broke, it's probably an Audi...


  8. #7
    dodo0903's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by evilscotsman View Post
    The door module could be faulty but that lever inside is operated mechanically and acts directly on the locking mechanism, its independent of the electronics, there always has to be a tried-and-tested mechanical means of releasing the door in an emergency.
    yeah that's how it suppose to be but not in my car

    thanks anyway!

  9. #8
    Woorlord's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by evilscotsman View Post
    They are supposed to unlock with 2 pulls for safety reasons so you can't deadbolt passengers into the car.
    If the door is locked via the remote key fob to secure the car it is then deadlocked - one motor locks the car and a second known as "safe" deadlocks it - these are directly controlled by the door control unit from signals off the CAN-BUS transmitted by the convenience module.
    This locking mode stops a t-leaf smashing a window and opening your car.
    Just confirmed this on mine by leaving a window open - remote locking - no amount of inside handle tugs releases the lock.

    However, if your car "auto-locks" above 5mph, or you use the internal lock button then the doors can be released by 2 internal handle tugs. The normal mode of escape if traveling in the car and you experience an accident scenario and need to get out.
    Again just confirmed this on mine.

    One would assume the lock mechanism has failed whilst being remotely locked.
    Door card removal would seem the only option as you say to get access to the physical locking mechanism.

    My circuit diagrams show for the "door lock mechanism" on Passenger Door:
    Pin 1 (grey/green) = V- (common side for both motors) [T12a/4]
    Pin 2 (brown/blue) = V+ (locking motor) [T12a/5]
    Pin 7 (grey/blue) = S+ (Safe motor) [T12a/6]
    Terminals in [brackets] are on the door controller module.

    One would assume momentarily putting 0v on V- & 12v on S+ sets safe mode, and reversing this polarity to these terminals removes safe mode?
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  10. #9
    evilscotsman's Avatar
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    I doth my cap to thee woorlord, and stand corrected Sir!

    Yeah that sounds right about reversing the polarity to pull the deadbolt out, should work off a pair of wires from a ciggy-lighter adaptor cable to allow you to open the door normally.

    One thing to try woorlord, is to do what you did again, but this time, press the wee unlock button on the inside of the drivers door (imagin your that tea-leaf again) - does the door locks pop open?.......deadbolts not much use as break-in protection when theres a little button that defeats it all eh?
    Last edited by evilscotsman; 17th September 2008 at 23:52.
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  11. #10
    NHN
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    the drivers door lock button wont work as its canbus signal aswell fella & as door module dead then no good, reverse polarity should make the solenoid unlock the door ok, but just take door card of & check module 1st, also check the door pillar & make sure there are no broken wires in there aswell.

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  12. #11
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    cheers nige, the guy has a problem checking it cos its the passenger door and its deadbolted shut and wont open, havent looked to see if the trim can be taken off wi the door shut, most cant but probably the only option.
    B4 TDI - old skool project / daily driver...if it ain't broke, it's probably an Audi...


  13. #12
    NHN
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    uhhh good point, very sorry & it was early morning, dohhh, but if he can get to the loom in the door maybe he could get open as we've advised, lol cant believe I didnt think of that what a plonker rodney

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  14. #13
    dodo0903's Avatar
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    Thank's for all reply's!
    At the moment I'm bit busy at work as I'm about to change my job ( staying with the company only moving "up" so as soon as I get day off first of all I will disconect the battery for a while and will see. If it does not help I'm gonna see independent vag specialist.And If he's not gonna be able to help without braking into the door trim I'll start taking it apart by my self.


  15. #14
    Woorlord's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by evilscotsman View Post
    One thing to try woorlord, is to do what you did again, but this time, press the wee unlock button on the inside of the drivers door (imagin your that tea-leaf again) - does the door locks pop open?.......deadbolts not much use as break-in protection when theres a little button that defeats it all eh?
    Whilst in "T-leaf" mode can confirm after remote keyfob lock that the internal unlock & lock button is inactive.

    Also looked at potential of removing door card whilst door closed - does not look good I'm afraid. There is one screw at the bottom of the card about centre which is hidden when the door is closed. I recall other screws should be accessible behind various parts of trim. A good amount of the card is also up against the glove box - so a certain amount of door card flexing may be required - you may need a second pair of hands? Access is again restricted with the front seat in situ.
    2001 A4 Saloon 3.0 Quattro Sport Tiptronic - Platinum Leather/Heated Front Seats/BOSE/DIS/Cruise Control
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  16. #15
    evilscotsman's Avatar
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    Cheers Woorlord, that puts the hat on it then, its going to be messy.

    I would try then, to find another door trim the same (I know thats not easy) so then when you have to butcher your one it'll be easy to replace after its free and you get it open.

    Sorry dodo mate, it looks a nasty problem from every angle.

    One final suggestion, might not work, but I would feel bad if I didnt tell you about it....my B6 bootlid jammed shut - when it happened I thought it was still locked. I tried for days to unlock it with the key and the remote. Turned out to be the rubber seal was sticking so tightly I had to pull really hard and it opened with a horrible ripping sound....but did no harm. Took a LOT of force to get it open tho.

    I sprayed silicone spray around it and that cured it. My Alfa door used to stick shut solid, but it was the rubbers too - why not try unlocking it twice wi the remote just to be sure its all released, then - from inside - push on the door with your feet, near the B post edge so you get maximum leverage, heck even booting it with both feet (aim carefully lol) you might just bust it open. The deadbolt is in the door mechanism, not the car body anyway so at worst you would need a locking mech as well as the door controller, but you cant fix it if you cant get in, and I know i'd feel stoopid if it was just sticking and I butchered the door card without trying that

    WI the handbrake off, gearlever in 3rd, there should be enough room to get your legs swung across the console, sitting in the drivers seat crosswise, and shut your door to give you something to push against.
    Last edited by evilscotsman; 19th September 2008 at 09:30.
    B4 TDI - old skool project / daily driver...if it ain't broke, it's probably an Audi...


  17. #16
    dodo0903's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Finaly opened!!!

    Yes I opened the door!!! HOW? well on my day off I disconect the battery and left it over night.next day reconect the battery and it works!!! I have no idea what was wrong with it but it works fine now so will see how long I will run vag-com test to see if the door module is able to comunicate now.but so far so good

  18. #17
    evilscotsman's Avatar
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    cool, good stuff. sometimes resetting electronics works wonders!
    B4 TDI - old skool project / daily driver...if it ain't broke, it's probably an Audi...


 

 

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